To Mobil 1, or to Mobil 1 High Mileage?

is there any difference aside from 3 bucks more a quart?

 

I was using regular mobil 1 untill almost 150,000 miles.

 

Stick with straight M1
Change it regularly and you'll never have to worry about using a "high mileage" blend on a Toyota.

 

THIS!

 

Even 'regular' oil will provide great lubrication well over 200,000 miles, it's the quality of the regular maintenance that makes the largest difference by far.

 

Agreed. I went to both Toyota dealers on Virginia Beach Boulevard Saturday to get their input. My '10 just finished it's 2 year service plan. Before my 1st change I asked what they recommended. Regular maintenance (5000 miles) ... fossil oil is what is recommended.

I was leaning towards Mobile 1 but unless something drastic happens (previous Toyota trucks had 257, 000 .... 183, 000 ... 19, 000 respectively with not a problem all with dyno) I am staying the course.

 

Newer model 2.7 engines are shipping with synthetic from the factory, and Toyota recommended oil is 0w20, which is only available in synthetic.

 

If I remember correctly, the high-milage oils are basically the same oil with some differences in the additive package to keep seals and gaskets in good health. Personally, as others have recommended, I would not bother with a high-milage oil. Only time I would try it would be if I had some seal/gasket leakage/weeping, then I might try it a time or two to see if it helped close those up.

 

They must have just started this. when I bought mine, I took it to the local Jiffy lube and dumped that factory crap they had in there to have it loaded up with Mobil 1 syn. I will get my Synthetic changed out every 12,000 miles.

 

Regular Mobile 1 is all you need, plus saves 3 bucks a quart.

 

whichever is cheapest
mobil 1 on my 5VZFE for 14 years and it still beats EPA MPG estimates and doesn't
lose oil either...

 

Yes ... that is what both service departments said ...'10 was last year for fossil (for 2.7 at least) ... in '11 they switched to synthetic ... I got 0w20 fossil, unless I miss read your comment.

 

Too bad the Iffy Lube filter is an unbranded Fram product.
Buy a box of Toyota filters and take one with you.

And according to the attached, your 2011 came with 0w20 synthetic.
Check your oil cap... if it says 0w20, then ONLY synthetic is recommended, as 0w20 is not available in conventional.

 

5w20 conventional. 0w(anything) is only available in synthetic. You might find it in a blend.

 

I stand corrected ... I weighed the pros and cons of dyno (5w20) and synthetic (0w20) ... settled on dyno after speaking to service managers.

I had 0w20 on my mind ... had to go out to the garage to check myself .... 5w20 it is ... we can never stop learning.

 

My latest batch of M1 is also 5w20.
I've been running 5w30 so I don't have to stock a different weight for my wife's Rav4, but I'm considering moving her up to a 10w40 due to light oil consumption.

 

Keep in mind that its not that 0w oils aren't "available" in dino, its that the current method for assessing oil weights won't allow a dino oil to get a 0 rating. A "true" synthetic is the only oil able to attain this weight, regular dino and hydrocracked dino (most of the "synthetic" oil on the shelves) can't get a 0 weight.

This will probably be true until they rework how oil weights are assessed such that the hydro-synth can attain 0. Kind of like how hydro-synth is allowed to be marketed as synthetic.

 

I had a very high mileage Camry that began to leak oil around 120,000 miles or so. It took 2 or 3 oil changes with high mileage oil, but the leaks stopped completely. I sold the car with 311,000 miles on it and the engine still ran strong and tight. I never had the seals replaced.

High mileage oil made me a believer in the stuff.

 

hmmmm will need to try this if the thing starts weeping at the seals