First Mod Day of 2013

Proof that Greg actually did something to help! LOL

 

Oh cool thanks for the pics!! YES!! Proof that I actually have a truck!!

Hey can anyone guess what my plate means? Or translates to? Eric, you can't say because you already know...

 

Yeah, thanks for the pics! I'm stealing one of the one taken from the front of my truck without the camper on for Facebook.

Haha, he helped with the camper shell, too! There's photographic evidence!

 

Feb 29, 1962?

 

Haahaahaahaa.


I try!!!

 

Nope. But it has to do with my truck's name, "Babytruck".

 

Just got my hi-lift mounted!
I ended up having to go above the rail because the rail was too close to the wheel well to mount the hi lift below. Not ideal, but it seems pretty sturdy.

 

Nice job Kev, looks good!

 

That ended up pretty cool!

 

got my light bar in finally and wired up the relay and switch. still waiting on the light mount from Jerry but it turned out pretty good.

 

Awesome man!

 

So Logcabin is gonna install a light bar and I thought he needed a relay, but he didn't see why, so I asked my dad and he said that you just need a relay to prevent your switch from heating up.
Is that why you did a relay for your light bar, Scotty?
Logcabin said that his light bar would run about 6 amps and the switch is rated for 20, so we think he's good, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

 

Yeah as far as I know it is just a safety precaution from the switch heating up and causing problems. It might be more necessary with higher voltage lighting but I did it anyway to be safe.

 

Ditto, it's just worth it to me

 

Makes sense. Thanks!

 

I use, and always recommend using a 2 fuses, a relay, and a switch, for every AUX application.

One fuse (rated for lights) to the relay source, one relay (<3A) for the switch.

The problem with having the power run directly through the switch, is that the entire amp draw (current) runs through it. That means 6 amps into the cab/through firewall, 6 amps through the switch, and 6 amps back out to the lights. For safety purposes, this means you should be using fairly heavy wire. A conservative minimum wire gauge would be 14, since the current is probably traveling about 10-12 feet (battery-> cab-> lights).

A relay, on the other hand, you could have the 14 gauge wire go from the battery/fuse, to the relay, and then to the lights, meaning you don't have to feed any heavy wire through the cab.

To switch the relay, it takes about .120 Amps. Just over 1/10th of an amp. This would mean you only have .120 amps going into the cab, through the switch, and back out. Not only do you have less amp draw/heat going through the switch, but you can use much thinner wire (18/20 gauge), for the entire circuit.

A switch will probably be fine, but the safety margin is better with a relay. It also gives you the option, should you ever want to use the same wiring to run something that requires higher current.

 

Excellent info, thanks for the help!

 

Rock sliders and light bar and stereo installed!




Moved one of the switches from the top row to the bottom and mounted light bar switch next to fog lights
OFF

ON


Just the light bar on, it isn't as bright as I thought it would be...

Light bar and head lights

Light bar, head lights, and fog lights


MHL cable routed to the center console tray thing.

 

MHL cable routed to the center console tray thing.
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How do you like the AppRadio? I saw it at bestbuy and I'm tempted, I'd be running my iphone off of it though. I just cant decide, I've read both good and bad things about it.