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Headlights burned out?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by luka, Mar 6, 2013.

  1. Mar 6, 2013 at 8:33 AM
    #1
    luka

    luka [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Mike
    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle:
    Prerunner -> 4WD Converted
    Pelfreybilt, Warn, BAMF, DTRL toggle on/off, FJ OEM Fog/Aux Light switches, 2012 lower center console swap, wired in auto-dimming rear view mirror, Wet-Okole inside, Weathertech , Rigid, Tint, Roto-Pax, Bestop, OME, Extended SS brake lines, TRD TX Pro/Baja Graphite 16" Rims
    While driving home last night, I noticed after a while that my headlights were out after a ways. Tried cycling the switch and the indicator on the dash turned on to tell me the headlights are on but they weren't.

    I checked all the 10amp fuses in the engine bay and they were all good.

    Didn't get to pysically pull the bulbs yet.

    Tested the high beams and they turned on when I pull the stalk to me but don't turn on when i push it forward(to leave the high-beams on)

    Anyone encounter this before?

    I have the sylvania expensive good rated one (silverstar ultra?) for lights and HID 3k fog lights.

    Driving home with the fogs were fun :p
     
  2. Mar 6, 2013 at 9:18 AM
    #2
    jtav2002

    jtav2002 Kenny Fuckin Powers

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    Josh
    Reading, PA
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    2013 Tundra DBL Cab TRD OR
    Check everything with the HID fogs? I had a bad ground on an HID kit on my previous vehicle and it made all my lights act goofy.
     
  3. Mar 6, 2013 at 10:38 AM
    #3
    luka

    luka [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Mike
    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle:
    Prerunner -> 4WD Converted
    Pelfreybilt, Warn, BAMF, DTRL toggle on/off, FJ OEM Fog/Aux Light switches, 2012 lower center console swap, wired in auto-dimming rear view mirror, Wet-Okole inside, Weathertech , Rigid, Tint, Roto-Pax, Bestop, OME, Extended SS brake lines, TRD TX Pro/Baja Graphite 16" Rims
    I don't think it would be the HIDs, they plug into the factory fog light connectors so I don't have any extra wires to deal with.

    Have to wait till I get home to check the bulbs, if it's not that then I kinda have a feeling I have to look at my other wiring.
     
  4. Mar 7, 2013 at 7:15 AM
    #4
    Gringo

    Gringo Active Member

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    MA
    Vehicle:
    '10 2wd AC SR5
    HID's, extra D-rings
    My headlights died last night. Had lights Monday night, didn't drive tues night, and last night nada. Blue high beam light on dash lights up. I have a slimcubby HID kit ~3yrs old, already burned and replaced one ballast a couple years ago. But it seems odd both lights would go at once and am pretty sure both were ok Monday. Doing my best to troubleshoot it in the storm today but so far no luck. All tips welcome!
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013
  5. Mar 7, 2013 at 9:10 AM
    #5
    luka

    luka [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Male
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    Mike
    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle:
    Prerunner -> 4WD Converted
    Pelfreybilt, Warn, BAMF, DTRL toggle on/off, FJ OEM Fog/Aux Light switches, 2012 lower center console swap, wired in auto-dimming rear view mirror, Wet-Okole inside, Weathertech , Rigid, Tint, Roto-Pax, Bestop, OME, Extended SS brake lines, TRD TX Pro/Baja Graphite 16" Rims
    So I pulled the bulbs out yesterday and read just over 12v at the plugs, looking at the bulbs, there was some burning on the inside, the contacts were darker on the bottom but it didn't look like a clean break like you'd normally see, guess that was enough to cause the short.

    Got new sylvania xle(or whatever it's called) and my headlights work normally again.

    I did notice that the bulbs I have are only warrantied for 1 year from the factory, they've been on for maybe 2-3 years?

    Still odd that they would both go at the same time though.
     
  6. Mar 7, 2013 at 9:14 AM
    #6
    Nunavut

    Nunavut Eh oh, Canada go.

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    Canada
    Check your fuzes.
     
  7. Mar 7, 2013 at 5:48 PM
    #7
    Gringo

    Gringo Active Member

    Joined:
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    43
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    Male
    MA
    Vehicle:
    '10 2wd AC SR5
    HID's, extra D-rings
    checking fuses was the first thing I did. All stock fuses OK; the slimcubby kit fuse on the (+) wire from the battery was corroded and hard to remove but did not appear burnt; I removed it, cleaned the slot with contact cleaner, and replaced the fuse with a new one, using bulb grease - still no joy. All connections appear solid... how do you go about testing ballasts?
     

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