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Gauge Cluster Stuck on?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KColoTaco, Jan 31, 2013.

  1. Feb 3, 2013 at 2:48 PM
    #21
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    So you're saying that all those lights that you first listed turn on??
     
  2. Feb 3, 2013 at 8:39 PM
    #22
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah all the lights I listed on the cluster will *sometimes* come on all by them selves with the ignition switch turned to off.
     
  3. Feb 4, 2013 at 7:43 AM
    #23
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    Hmmm never heard of that happening...that sounds like it's the ecu.
    Have you connected anything electrically recently?
    Radio, exterior Offroad lighting etc.
     
  4. Feb 4, 2013 at 7:59 AM
    #24
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Last thing I put on the truck that was electrical was an iPod connect. But that has been about 2 years.

    I replaced the battery but I think this may have been responsible for it dying.

    Would it be the ECU or is there a body control unit that could be doing it. Also do you have any idea where to get one should that be the case.

    Thanks!
     
  5. Feb 4, 2013 at 11:40 AM
    #25
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So after a call to the dealership it sounds like the BCM/ECU is the same module. Toyota just calls it the computer. The dealership wants $1050 for a new one used ones can be had for ~$250.

    I think I need to make sure there is not another problem before getting one of those. YIKES!
     
  6. Feb 4, 2013 at 12:49 PM
    #26
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    Ya that won't cause anything...weird.

    If it's the ecu try finding a local member with the same truck and see if you can swap ecus first...I think they're all just plug in ones
     
  7. Feb 4, 2013 at 2:08 PM
    #27
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would totally try swapping ECU's to see what would happen. If it quits being intermittent that will help as well. I understand if you buy a new one you have to take it to the dealer for them to program it to your VIN.

    I was told it might be smart to call the service department at the dealer and see if there are any updates for my ECU as that could help. Might start there.
     
  8. Feb 4, 2013 at 2:29 PM
    #28
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do you know where the ignition relays are located I assume there is a set hooked to the ignition switch and don't think they are located next to the battery under the hood.

    As well after looking at the wiring diagram it looks like there is a Body control module so that is a player to now d'oh

    Thanks!
     
  9. Feb 6, 2013 at 12:09 PM
    #29
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3 inch OME complete lift, Light racing UCA's, Bed comp. locks.
    Well I have a bunch of plastic off the dash and it hasn't done it in the past two days. Go figure..... haha
     
  10. Feb 12, 2013 at 1:24 PM
    #30
    dibble9012

    dibble9012 Well-Known Member

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    I only see one relay in the starting circuit. HERE
    I can't imagine they changed too much between 2010 and an 08, at least in the starting circuit.

    Here is the link to the ignition circuit.
     
  11. Mar 8, 2013 at 9:29 AM
    #31
    KColoTaco

    KColoTaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3 inch OME complete lift, Light racing UCA's, Bed comp. locks.
    Thanks for all the help with drawings and ideas.

    My problem actually came back again. I had left the truck from Sunday to Thursday and when I went to get in it the battery was dead.

    I unhooked the battery and placed it on the charger. Luckily the battery seems to be back up to snuff. I connected the battery this morning to see if it would start. Cranked fast but no start and the immobilizer light was off. Tried all 3 key's for good measure.

    At this point I am starting to think I have a power draw somewhere that is completely unrelated to the gauge cluster being stuck on. I think the battery gets drawn low enough that the sync between electronic modules gets messed up and things end up on.

    It is my assumption that After a day of no power at all it will go back to normal then I think I will look for a current draw.


    Let me know if anyone has any other input.
     

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