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3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SupraT, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:20 PM
    #1
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    I have done a lot of research on this subject and there is not a whole lot out there, so I figured I would share my experience. First off this whole procedure would be a lot easier with a big press but I didn't have one so this is what I used.

    I ordered new nose seal, couplier, bearings, gasket maker and super charger oil from:
    http://rollingperformance.com/index.htm

    First off I removed the SC from the truck and set it on the work bench.

    Remove the drain plug on the front of the unit next to the pulley, with an allen wrench.
    [​IMG]

    Tip forward and drain oil out, as you can see mine is dark in color and smelled terrible. Guessing it really needed changed:D
    [​IMG]

    Next loosen the bolts around the housing.
    [​IMG]

    I loosened all the bolts about an inch, then I pried the nose drive from the housing and tipped it over onto a rag to remove the last of the oil.
    [​IMG]

    Then remove the rest of the bolts and remove the nose drive.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now on to removing the rotor assy from the housing by prying on the three different notches.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Once the rotor assy is removed you can see the two rear bearings.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This next process would be a lot easier with a press. I improvised and found the end of my 1/2 inch extension was the same OD than the bearing. So I then beat them out of the rear.
    [​IMG]

    I froze the rear bearings and used the back of a socket to beat the bearings back in. If you have never done anything like this before make sure that you are going in straight.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Apply gasket maker, do not use this much it was overkill and it got all over the place. All you need is a small bead around the inner lip. Then put the rotor assy back in. And install the new coupler.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now the nose assy. I used a punch, hammer, and a couple pieces of wood to remove the nose shaft.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Remove the clip holding the seal in and then flip the housing over and I used a 1/2 inch ext and a socket to remove the outer bearing and seal.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After bearing and seal are removed, remove spring from the shaft assy and put the shaft back in the housing place on wood again and with punch beat the shaft thru the bearing and couplier piece ( Did not take a picture of this process) Would be a lot easier to take it to a shop and get it pressed off and new one pressed on.

    Install new front bearing. And reinstall the nose shaft and bearings.
    [​IMG]

    Apply gasket maker and put nose assy back on. Loc-tight bolts and tighten, then fill with 4 oz super charger oil and put drain plug back in and reinstall on the truck.

    Hope this helps anyone looking to do a full rebuild, and feel free to contact me with questions.

    P.S. Sorry about the spelling:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2013
    Kai_M, Brojohanson, Noob95.5 and 13 others like this.
  2. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:24 PM
    #2
    TacoSkeet

    TacoSkeet 'MERICA

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    sweet write up man!
     
  3. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:42 PM
    #3
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    Thanks, hopefully it helps someone
     
  4. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:52 PM
    #4
    Norton

    Norton Senior Member

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    Excellent write-up. Thank you!
     
  5. Mar 10, 2013 at 9:17 PM
    #5
    Q Source

    Q Source Well-Known Member

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    EDIT:

    IT APPEARS THE PHENOLIC DRIVE ADAPTER IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS.

    This is the best write up I have ever seen...

    I replaced my nosecone on my SC with a brand new one before I installed it. Had this post been around I would of saved myself 200 bucks.

    Any chance you could tell us what size bearings were in the impeller housing?

    Thank You!

    It might also help to use locktite green 603 bearing retaining compound on the outer race of the bearings and locktite 242 blue on the nose cone bolts
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  6. Mar 10, 2013 at 9:22 PM
    #6
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    I will post up the part numbers that were on the box. I just ordered this part #
    #STDSNOUTKIT03-V . . . $75.00 from Rolling Performance
     
  7. Mar 10, 2013 at 9:25 PM
    #7
    Xer0 SiN

    Xer0 SiN Well-Known Member

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    this and that...
    nice writeup. supercharger must feel refreshed after that lol.
     
  8. Mar 10, 2013 at 9:37 PM
    #8
    NW4RUNNER

    NW4RUNNER Well-Known Member

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  9. Mar 10, 2013 at 9:44 PM
    #9
    Q Source

    Q Source Well-Known Member

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    Here is my conversation with Magnusun about rebuilding...


    Hey xxxxxx, our inspection fee is $85.00 to inspect the supercharger, the repair depends on what it might need… it can range from $475.00 to $1200.00 for the internals.
    *

    David Gonzalez,* Customer Service Rep* (Se Habla Espanol)
    Magnuson Products LLC. International Headquarters, Ventura CA.
    Ph. +1 805 642-8833 **************************www.magnusonproducts.com



    I think if you can work on it yourself it's worth it.
    *
     
    POSTacoMike likes this.
  10. Mar 10, 2013 at 10:36 PM
    #10
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    I can feel and hear the difference:D And it only costed me 120.00. In most cases you can prolly just change the oil and be fine if your seal is good.
     
  11. Mar 11, 2013 at 11:30 AM
    #11
    DAMOS

    DAMOS Well-Known Member

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    About time someone did this... Good info. Mine will need rebuilt some day.
    Just curious why you rebuilt your sc. Was it making noise or was it just time?
     
  12. Mar 11, 2013 at 12:55 PM
    #12
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    It just didn't have the whine that it should and i thought it was making a noise from the rear but now that I have rebuilt it I still have the noise:( Thinking it might be an exhaust leak now...
     
    Kai_M likes this.
  13. Mar 11, 2013 at 2:14 PM
    #13
    DAMOS

    DAMOS Well-Known Member

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    Hmm ... what kind of noise? Put the stock crap back on and see if it goes away?
     
  14. Mar 11, 2013 at 5:21 PM
    #14
    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    Sick write-up. I was lazy and took mine to Magnuson- I would like to do the next rebuild myself, and have the blower ported as well.
     
  15. Mar 12, 2013 at 7:53 AM
    #15
    Hambone155

    Hambone155 Well-Known Member

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    port and polish intake manifold, supercharger, pulley for charger, lifted, tires, deckplate, (doing full engine build)
    thank you! great write up.
     
  16. Mar 12, 2013 at 3:20 PM
    #16
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd

    Awesome write-up, man! Hopefully I'll be able to use it when I someday have a supercharger! :p
     
    Boatbldr likes this.
  17. Mar 12, 2013 at 4:05 PM
    #17
    cbassd

    cbassd Member

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    Can you post pics of where you put in the new sc oil after you drain out the old oil for the sc
     
  18. Mar 12, 2013 at 5:04 PM
    #18
    MTgirl

    MTgirl too many frogs, not enough princes... Moderator

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    You forgot that step where you (accidentally) dented the rotor :popcorn:

    Just kidding Tony, nice work. I have requested "sticky" status for this thread...
     
    jaimestacotruck likes this.
  19. Mar 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM
    #19
    atvlifestyle

    atvlifestyle Well-Known Member

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    nice writeup man. This is something I will probably have to do in the next few years. Thanks for the info.
     
  20. Mar 12, 2013 at 8:47 PM
    #20
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    Thought I posted this pic
    [​IMG]

    Thank you Lisa:D

    From what I found, if you change your oil every 30,000 or so you might never have to rebuild:)
     

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