Started my D2S retrofit!

ok.. I'll give it a shot.. I'll just give myself plleeenty of time and use the gf's car if I need to for a while

 

take your time hehe

 

Ok so I got them today!
But now I'm super intimidated...
Did others get instructions in their box? because mine has nothing of the sort...
and I downloaded trs's instructions but those are still limited and completely skip over wiring everything...
I have parts that I can't even figure out where they go
I know I'm probably challenged at this... I've been able to work through a lot of DIY stuff on my own..
And for the life of me I can no longer find the walkthrough thread on TW anymore... anyone have that link?

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Morimoto_Mini_D2S_Retrofit.pdf

 

So I have the retrofit done, got it installed and found that the drivers side headlight would not adjust. To make a long story short the white plastic tabs that the adjustment screws run through are stripped. I will be trying to source new tabs at a local hardware store.

 

^^^

that sucks! sorry to hear =\.

 

So a 5 mm nut will fit on the headlight adjustment screw. I picked up one of those along with a bolt. I put the bolt through the tab and then put the nut on the end to hold the nut true. Then used JB weld to glue the nut to the plastic adjustment tab so the nut will act as the new threads. It's curing now so I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

thats how its done! improvise!

 

Did my retrofit today... well finished it today and started yesterday.
two questions though:
1) The cut off lines are pretty dang straight. However, they are pointed WAY LOW. Suggestions? I mean, my fogs are reaching farther than the cut of line!
Do I just loosen the back washers and try and angle it up and re-tighten? I will not drive with them at night pointed so low, way to dangerous.

2) The rubber boot. How does the original one fit on? Does it need to be trimmed? And the small rubber boot that was on the balast cable to the part that connects to the bulb: How in the hell does that thing work? It wond fit on the orange connector part at all and I have no idea what to do with it. And considering it is supposed to rain on tuesday or wednesday here, I think think this is something I need to get figured out soon!

Thanks for you help! Will post pics when I'm not so tired.

 

You should be able to adjust the cutoffs up with the housing adjusters, but make sure everything is seated properly first.

The vertical adjustment is the adjuster that's down low on the fender side of the housing. You'll need a long-ish Philip's screwdriver, and it's geared pretty low, so it'll take quite a few spins.

The original large boot, you either need to trim the hole so it is large enough to fit the orange fitting, or get a pair of the rubber boots that TRS sells and run the cable in through a slot that you'll cut in the side.

The smaller boot... not sure what you're referring to. The two (four) teeny rubber boots are to seal the solenoid connection on the oval connectors.

 

OH! I know exactly what screws you are talking about... I can adjust those...
And in this picture, the small rubber boots I was talking about are in the background out of fucus. It is the round black thing


And I will trim the stock boots. I'm sure I can make that work somehow. Thanks for you help Rich! and you were right about grounding.. When we first turned them on we got nothing, then really made sure to ground them well and they worked!

 

Ahh! Mine didn't come with that boot.
That boot is intended to seal to a different type of housing. You should be able to cut it off, but I would leave it there and see if there's a way to adapt it to seal to the TRS boots:

I'm not sure whether our housings take the 75, 80, 90, or 100.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=4649

 

That rubber boot on the ballast cable is if you cut a hole in any of the sheetmetal to run the cable thru. You would make the hole the size of the groove that runs on the outer edge of the rubber piece. It's intended to keep the cable from chaffing against the edge of the hole you cut. I cut mine off since both of my ballasts are mounted behind and below my light assemblies and they are a straight shot to the bulbs.

 

Bump for updated pictures in

 

Got mine done, couple times now and still fogging up, I swear I sealed it up with so much window weld so I don't know what's going on. I did use rubbing alcohol to clean it, could it be its not dried???
Pic

 

Mine have still fogged up on occassion when it changes temperature very quickly. But then it goes away. I have read that guys that have done painting and not waited a few days for it to dry that the lens will fog up.

 

I waited like 2 days for mine, I think I have to redo again, getting tired of this really. Glad you got yours done though. You can adjust the driver side light to go up so it evens out.

 

The drivers side projector isnt perfectly level, it dips down towards the middle of the truck. I'd have to open it back up and file the adapter ring like I had to for the passenger side. Good luck with yours, hope you get it worked out.