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Who's using 4:56 gears on 2nd Gen?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Blkturbo!, Apr 14, 2012.

  1. Apr 15, 2012 at 11:36 AM
    #21
    wrmathis

    wrmathis Dark Lord of the Sith

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    parts and stuff
    mine was fine movin everything before i got the supercharger. its even better now that i have the supercharger
     
  2. Apr 17, 2012 at 10:32 AM
    #22
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Downsouth UCAs, rear Icon "2.5" shocks and Toytec single AAL. Still gotta do exhaust, dark headlights and re-gear the rear diff.
    Below is a copy and paste from www.ringpinion.com Numbers 1 and 2 briefly explain that your truck feels stress even when you dont. Just because you dont feel like the truck is working harder, doesnt mean the driveline isnt feeling ANYTHING from bigger and heavier tires.
    When you mash the gas pedal, of course the truck will move....with re-gearing, you'll have to mash the gas pedal LESS to do the smae work. This is the basics that anyone should get just from common knowledge, even if you're not a "gear-head".


    Do I need to change my gear ratio?Here's 4 Reasons To Change Your Gear Ratio.

    If you have larger than stock tires on your vehicle, the benefits of gearing CANNOT BE MATCHED BY ANY OTHER MODIFICATION TO THE VEHICLE!

    By regearing it is guaranteed that:

    1. TORQUE TO THE REAR AXLE WILL BE GREATLY IMPROVED
    Even a simple change from a 31" diameter tire to a 33" diameter tire will affect the amount of available torque by 10%.

    2. STRESS TO THE DRIVELINE WILL BE GREATLY LESSENED
    Modern day transmissions cost $600 or more to perform a basic overhaul. Driving with even a 10% larger tire will result in the transmission being under the same load as always being driven on an incline. The transmission may not suddenly fail, but the life will definitely be reduced by thousands of miles.

    3. ENGINE EFFICIENCY WILL BE REGAINED
    RPM alone does not affect fuel mileage. An undergeared vehicle (as the result of oversized tires) will result in a substantial loss of fuel mileage. Also, just as with the transmission, your engine life will greatly be reduced.

    4. SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER ACCURACY WILL BE REGAINED
    With kits in the $100+ range to calibrate speedometers after tire swaps, it seems pretty important to have an accurate speedometer, which can also be fixed with a simple gear change.
     
  3. Apr 17, 2012 at 10:33 AM
    #23
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Downsouth UCAs, rear Icon "2.5" shocks and Toytec single AAL. Still gotta do exhaust, dark headlights and re-gear the rear diff.
    Power adders don't remove the stress to the drivetrain from larger tires.
     
  4. Apr 17, 2012 at 10:44 AM
    #24
    2011TacoSport4x4

    2011TacoSport4x4 Well-Known Member

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    2011 TRD Sport DC 4x4 OME 3" lift
    OME 3" lift, Flowmaster exhaust, K&N Intake, bestop, ARB Locker, 4:56 gears, ARB Deluxe bumper, Warn 8000lb winch, Synthetic line, Rock sliders, exhaust relocation done, All Pro standard 3" leaf packs, Timbren Bump stops, Extended brake lines, Pioneer dual din DVD, Pioneer door speakers, Ultra Gauge, BAMF Lower LCA Skids.
    I run 4:56 and with my 33's actually measure 32.5 my freeway rpms are high. The low end power is great. 4:10's are probably perfect for you but yes they are only available through toyota and are expensive. At least when I bought my gears they were only through toyota. 4:10 will be a slight increase in power but I don't personally feel like 4:10 would be worth re gearing. I love my 4:56 gearing, I am going to run 285/75/17 so it will be perfect then. Good luck, hope this helped a little.

    My speedometer is off by like 2mph according to my gps.
     
  5. Apr 17, 2012 at 11:08 AM
    #25
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Downsouth UCAs, rear Icon "2.5" shocks and Toytec single AAL. Still gotta do exhaust, dark headlights and re-gear the rear diff.

    This is exactly what Ive been thinking all along....but damn, I sure dont want to be running high RPMs all day long on the highway with 4:56 being "too much" :eek: I travel with my truck so I gotta worry about highway RPMs being too far outta whack.
     
  6. Apr 17, 2012 at 11:12 AM
    #26
    Delmarva

    Delmarva Mayor of TW

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    It's the wife's T4R so it's stock
    This.

    I have 4.56s, 3" lift w/285/75/16 (and an S/C :woot:)

    Highway speeds of 70mph equal about 2400 RPM - pretty high... luckily I don't do much highway driving or otherwise I'd pull them out and look for higher gears.
     
  7. Apr 20, 2012 at 2:45 PM
    #27
    bumpkin1

    bumpkin1 Active Member

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    I have 4.10 w/ the I4 manual, and at 60 mph i'm at about 2100-2150 RPM. That's a little higher than i'd like mpg wise, but i'm glad for it when i'm towing or going off road.
     
  8. Apr 20, 2012 at 3:25 PM
    #28
    singlefin

    singlefin Well-Known Member

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    I have Nitro 4.56's, got them in a completed third members from East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS). Thoughts...I have the 6MT and as my truck sits, its a little heavier than stock and has to spin 33's. So it's felt pretty weak taking off and reverse sometimes is a pain in the ass if dealing with an incline. When wheeling a lot of time I'd choose to go 4-Lo just to not be constantly on the clutch if it was steep or lots of stop and go situations. Now with the 4.56's my power is back, take offs are easy, and 1st/reverse scenarios are better.

    MPG (mixed city/hwy): 3.73 with 285's 15-17. Now 4.56's with 285's 15/18. REMEMBER 6MT is less efficient than the AT. IMHO the trade off is worth it, the gears really made the truck more enjoyable. If your worried about MPG's don't lift your truck, add armor, and run larger tires.

    Speedo calibration: I used Hypertech inline programmer. Got if off Amazon and it was on sale. Took about 30 minutes to program and install. You need Windows to program it. Enter your stock tire size, gear ratio and then your new tire size and gear ratio. Works perfect, verified by my GPS. It's the easiest route but more expensive than using the Dakota Box (think that's what it's called). If you want the cheaper route, which works as well look into it. The Hypertech is $100 more.
     
  9. May 2, 2012 at 9:28 AM
    #29
    Cowboyz

    Cowboyz Membor

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    Man i pulled 2 skies (RXP and a Honda @ about 2200-2500lbs) with my 35s and it did alright up the hills. I just drop it down to 4 instead of D and make sure your in the right gear before the hill and i was good. You dont want to use cruise or it will be searching for the gear on the hill and that is bad. I would regear if i had the coin but man its like 1100 bucks for just the 2wd.
     
  10. May 2, 2012 at 9:36 AM
    #30
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    where are you going for quotes??
    my prerunner was only $700 parts & installed...lol
     
  11. May 2, 2012 at 9:39 AM
    #31
    Cowboyz

    Cowboyz Membor

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    man Utah everything is more expensive. I only got 2 quotes from local small town bushiness and one was 1250. I think they might have adding bearings in their quote as well though.
     
  12. May 2, 2012 at 9:42 AM
    #32
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    really?? damn...out here that would be for both front and rear diffs...
    they always replace the diff bearings
     
  13. May 2, 2012 at 9:43 AM
    #33
    Cowboyz

    Cowboyz Membor

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    man it would be worth it for me to drive all the way to SoCal and get it down there. and i could use the money i saved on an LED guage swap.
     
  14. May 2, 2012 at 9:46 AM
    #34
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    lol...i remember someone telling me around $1350 for both front and rear done...takes a couple of hours...not sure if thats the correct price
     
  15. May 2, 2012 at 10:02 AM
    #35
    tacowithbeans

    tacowithbeans Member

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    i just recently regeared to 4.56 just because my 3.727 went out and i love it i have a 6 inch fabtech lift with 33s and it honestly seems to get a little better gas mileage im loving it i used nitro gears by the way 456 bucks for ring gear and pinion and the master install kit
     
  16. May 2, 2012 at 10:39 AM
    #36
    Cowboyz

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    they went out? how many miles did you have on them? I havent really seen gears wear out on 33s
     
  17. Oct 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM
    #37
    VTTACOMA

    VTTACOMA Well-Known Member

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    Reading this thread has got me thinking I should re-gear. Just put on 275/65 18 and want to make sure I keep the torque and acceleration up. Esp since I spent the extra on a super Charger. Any ideas on how the 4 banger 4:10's will hold up under the extra power? Am I better looking into a set from ECGS?
     
  18. Oct 3, 2012 at 8:51 AM
    #38
    nfs257

    nfs257 Well-Known Member

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    I am running 33's but they actually measure about 34 1/2" and I just regeared to 4.56's. I am only getting 12.5mpg but that is with out recalculating for the mielage difference.

    The gears are Nitro and I got them and the Master Install kit for $400 shipped from ECGS. Then I got a locker and ARB compressor and had it installed for around $1200 total. Total including Compressor, locker, swithces and everything installed.

    EDIT: Recalculated wtih GPS mileage and getting over 16MPG on AVG.
     
  19. Mar 26, 2013 at 5:29 PM
    #39
    alanneely

    alanneely New Member

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    fab 4 bumper, 18in XD wheels, 35x12.50 tires, 6in procomp lift
    What is your hwy mileage?
     
  20. Mar 26, 2013 at 6:05 PM
    #40
    Tacoyota

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    4.56 gears, rear trutrac,DT header, 235/85r16 Duratracs, 2nd filter pulled, inter.wipers, Cruise control, Factory alum. whls/winter tires(2nd set), Afe pro Dry-S , Dumbo eared flaps cut down.
    I'm debating 4.56 gears in my 2.7/mt/4wd. It would raise my 5th gear rpm's about 250 rpm. This would go with (eventually) new tires 235/85r16 or 265/75r16. Overall change would be 7% more gear.....even out at an overall 175 rpm gain.

    I'm curious if any of you did this already.. 4.10 upped to 4.56 and had some insights.
     

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