Trans Fluid

If you get a new filter/strainer, I would say just wipe the mating surfaces clean and then cover whatever gasket(s) it has on the strainer with fresh fluid and re-attach. As for the pan, scrape the mating surfaces clean of any gasket material, then apply either black or red RTV to the mating surfaces and finger tight the bolts. The torque on those bolts are extremely low, so be careful not to over tighten. Hope this answers your question.

 

I used the old gasket,will ck. and make sure there is no leaks after I drive it tomorrow.Should be fine though.As for the plugs you are right on that,I took the parts # from off here and told them that what I wanted but they didn't have any so I went to toyota and got them. Should be good to go for a while now

 

I took it out for a spin today and no leaks and runs and shifts great.I can't tell a of differants but it seem to shift a lot smoother.But anyway I know its been done and done right so its good to go for awhile... Thanks to everyone for there help

 

"Smoother" shifting is not always a good thing.

"Smoother" may indicate slippage, which increases wear on the clutch packs, and increases heat. That's a big issue if you are into towing, offroading, or other things that are hard on a trans.

 

Rich91710, I was just noticing the weatherman said the sky is falling in LA.

Come on man, he put in a Toyota WS rated fluid, he got plugs at the dealer. If his tranny is slipping now because it shifts smoother, it would have been slipping before. Give the guy some credit, he was far less primitive Pete than most on here. He even did the work himself.

Ocala I say good job.

PK

 

You should replace the o-ring if you put in a new filter. Part # 90301‑31014.
Replace the gasket anytime you drop the pan. Part # 35168‑60010.

 

Thanks PK, know you should change the gasket and O-ring,I did put a new O-ring on put didnt have a gasket so I put a lite blead of silicone on the gasket and also went out today and drove around fifty miles came back and ck.it and all was great. So now on to other projects I need to do....

 

I used Amsoil ATF and followed Mountain Lions guide. Been several thousand miles and. O problems

 

This is from the Max Life product information pdf:

 

Hell yes...toyota can suck it for almost 10 bucks a quart.

 

$10/qt is a lot

But seriously... it's $40 every 50k.
It's not going to break the bank.

 

For those doing the full system flush instead of just draining/refilling the pan, isn't it 13 qts total for a cost of $130 w/ Toyota WS?

 

I have castrol import ATF in my transmission right now.

 

Still not something that you're doing every 5,000, 10,000, or 30,000.

Doing more than a regular drain-refill is overkill unless the trans has been overheated.

And again... it's $130.
$26/year if you do it every 5 years.

 

My concern is that the Valvoline Max Life may actually be a better fluid than the Toyota WS and at 1/3 the price.

 

I wouldn't be too concerned about that.
If I wanted something that I was comfortable with being "better" it would be an Amsoil or Mobil-1 product.... but I would not use either without an experienced recommendation by a trans guy that I trust.

Such was the case when I replaced the Dexron-VI in my Duramax with Amsoil TorqueDrive rather than Allison TranSynd . Bought 5 gallons of the stuff for that project.
I did that on the recommendation of a guy in SoCal who knows more about the Allison 1000 than the guy who designed it. His initial comment was "Get that Dex-6 shit out of there as soon as you can."
On Amsoil vs TorqueDrive, it was a cost/availability issue. He viewed both as being comparable performers. I like Amsoil products, but I'm not going to blindly follow their compatibility claims without some kind of independent opinion.

 

considering using M1 as well though i'm still a ways out- just did my 30k service & converted to M1 everywhere else. How many many miles were on your truck when you did your tranny? still having positive results?