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Bed battery relocation

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Emtmeyer, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Apr 4, 2013 at 5:36 AM
    #41
    themuffinman619

    themuffinman619 Play stupid games, win stupid prizes

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  2. Apr 4, 2013 at 11:28 AM
    #42
    Emtmeyer

    Emtmeyer [OP] Angrytaco

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    You need to ground it to the frame and ground it to the engine block, so you'll run 2 wires from the battery's neg terminal, one to the frame and one to the engine same as it is in the engine bay.
     
  3. Apr 4, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #43
    Anteupp

    Anteupp Mega Member

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    Are we talking about grounding the battery?

    The battery will be grounded to the frame somewhere behind the cab.

    Your saying i need to add another additional ground from the battery to the engine block as well or just run a ground from the engine block to the frame??? stupid questions i know but Iam by no means an electric guy hahaha I pm'd taco kid, im just waiting for his response.

    also have you already relocated your batt? What size fuses did you use on the distribution block specificaly to the starter and fuse box?

     
  4. Apr 5, 2013 at 8:17 AM
    #44
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) battery grounding is normally two connections. The first one is a heavy strained wire from the negative post of the battery to the frame. A second is a heavy strained wire connected between the engine block and frame.

    Normally to recharge a second isolated battery, a connection is placed between the positive battery terminal and the second output of an isolator. A fuse should be placed at the positive battery terminal. Fuses for the additional electrical load connections from the second battery are also at the positive battery terminal or second isolator output. The negative post of the battery is connected (grounded) to the frame. The charging system connection to the first battery is relocated to the input of the isolator, the first output is connected to the first battery. [Note that isolator types and connections vary, so follow the manufacturer's instructions.]

    The challenges are sizing the connections to the second battery for at least 120% of the maximum current & minimize the voltage drop, to prevent undercharging of the second battery, and proper fuse sizing. The most common solution the first challenge is to use heavier wire, e.g. welding cable, especially on long cable runs. The second challenge is to keep both batteries fully charged based on the load and driving habits to prevent a gradual build up of lead sulfate. The solution is to periodically "top off" the charge in each battery with an external battery charger set to match the battery type being charged. [OEM charging systems designed for an OEM wet "Low Maintenance" batteries might not produce enough voltage to fully charge a wet "Maintenance Free" or AGM battery.] The purpose of the properly sized fuses are to prevent fire or battery explosion and to collect eligible comprehensive insurance should a positive connection short to ground.
     
    opteron likes this.

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