Fan Stays on all the time?

I noticed yesterday that the fan was on while driving....the whole way! It never did this before, and this was the first warm day above 80 degrees this year. No check engine light either.
Anyone else ever have this problem?

 

Are you meaning the A/C fan, or engine fan?

If engine fan, I believe yours is a clutch driven engine fan.

 

I believe it's the engine fan. Comes on at startup for a few mins then shuts off when engine is warm. Then sometimes it just stays on all the time.

 

Could be time for a new clutch. Try to spin the fan by hand with the engine off and see if it has a slight resistance to it. See if it has any wobble or play as well.

 

When fan was engaged I killed the engine and could spin the fan by hand with some light resistance, no wobbling or looseness.
Took a longer drive today about 80 miles and while it was cool outside it never came on but when it warmed up it came on occasionally with no rhyme or reason. Temp gauge always right in the middle...never budges. And I never use the A/C.

 

Maybe this is normal Toyota behavior?

 

if ur fan clutch is loud all the time, u need a new one.

 

Mine seems to be having the same issue. It was 72 degrees this morning and my fan kicked in under normal driving conditions w/o the AC on. I'm thinking the clutch is done. I'm thinking the bi-metal spring is worn out. Or maybe the silicone fluid in the clutch has started to harden.

 

Silicone Fluid doesn't " harden ".

There are three ways to diagnose a bad fan clutch:

1- NOISE: Fan noise is sometimes evident under the following normal conditions: a- when clutch is engaged for maximum cooling, and b- during the first few minutes after start-up until the clutch can re-distribute the silicone fluid back to its normal disengaged operating condition after overnight settling; however, fan noise or an excessive roar will generally occur continuously under all high engine speed conditions ( 2500 rpm and up ) if the fan clutch assembly is locked up due to an internal failure. If the fan cannot be rotated by hand or there is a rough grating feel as the fan is turned, the clutch should be replaced.

2- LOOSENESS: Under various temperature conditions, there is a visible lateral movement that can be observed at the tip of the fan blade. This is a normal condition due to the type of bearing used. Approximately 1/4" maximum lateral movement measured at the fan tip is allowable depending on make and model. If the lateral movement exceeds the manufacturer's specifications, the fan clutch needs to be replaced.

3- SILICONE FLUID LEAK: The operation of the unit is generally not affected by small fluid leaks which may occur in the area around the bearing assembly. However, if the degree of leakage appears excessive, the fan clutch needs to be replaced.

http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/Fan_clutch.html

 

Found the problem. I've got side to side play in the bearing. I suspect the worn bearing is heating up the fluid on it's own and engauging the fan.

 

I think I'm ok. No play in the blade, has resistance, no gravelly noises. One test I got from a professional mechanic is to kill the engine with the fan disengaged and it should spin a few times and stop, if it keeps spinning for a while(more than 5-10 seconds) then it's shot.
Mine stopped in like 2 seconds.

 

I'm still going to change the pump, clutch and belts soon because now I'm nervous about it.

 

Most vehicles with a engine driven fan are loud when first starting then, quieten down, then sporaticaly go in/out as the temp needs it. This is normal. It takes them a few minutes to 'get up to temp' to kick out is the reason for it to be 'IN' when starting. It's 'fail' on the safe side. If it's always 'IN' it's clutch is bad.