1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

How To: Replace Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by blknblubkrdude, Jun 1, 2013.

  1. Jun 1, 2013 at 11:40 AM
    #1
    blknblubkrdude

    blknblubkrdude [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2009
    Member:
    #17559
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Gillette, WY
    Vehicle:
    96 Taco. 4X4, 5MT, 2.7
    Oil field truck with 250k miles...original powertain. Wheelers 881's/5-pack, Energy bushings throughout.
    I recently purchased my 1996 Taco that had 248K miles of oil field survey work on it (read; abuse)

    While changing all from end components, I decided to change the control arm bushings as well.
    I used the Energy Suspension 8.3115R kit. It was about $44 on eBay, shipped to my door.

    If I had planned on doing a "How-To", I would have showed the removal of the control arms. :(

    The only trick to getting the arms off, is that the steering rack must be removed in order to get the rear alignment cams out of the lower control arms. This was no issue, as I was already replacing the steering rack bushing, which I recommend you do also, if you have not already.


    The tools I used for the actual bushing swap were:
    Propane Torch
    Sawzall
    $60 Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press
    Die Grinder with Burr bit
    Lots of grease

    After removing the upper arm, place it in a vise, and begin to heat the center sleeve:
    IMG_5359_zps9ddfbd6f_b8768ebb3ead553ab340a4aae11e625ad48afd14.jpg
    IMG_5360_zps92dbfa77_bad0139ead2843d160cfc110dd3ac3b2b7be07bc.jpg
    Once the rubber is hot and separated from the sleeve, press the sleeve out:
    IMG_5361_zps17fc1df5_1ddd35417a2f5c15fced8e88a7d296c372e344e4.jpg
    After sleeve is out, and rubber is still warm, use sawzall to carve the rubber out:
    IMG_5362_zpsebff648c_efd05346fc94ab77fa27b3ac1b2be9e7eac2c331.jpg
    IMG_5364_zps404f4de7_123dd97c07edc09a16ce9fd48dbd2fc8c6894123.jpg
    Use the burr bit to remove the remaining rubber, try not to take too much metal out:
    IMG_5365_zps52e1eb28_8fb5ae8cc4555b4ed40144a1ef84d1c64aa9cdc9.jpg
    IMG_5366_zpsd156f8df_8ad88052f659cae294fb44a8cf3487b790c80283.jpg
    Because of the way the new urethane bushings are made, you must press the outer shell of the bushing into the control arm and make it flush!
    I was able to get the arm hot, and use my vise to press a couple of them in. There were 2 very stubborn ones I had to use the press at my shop for...but remember my truck had 248k miles on it, with many of them being off the pavement:
    IMG_5401_zpse76f647d_a681d552a1b01e363b20c19ca27317d9e6cbfbce.jpg
    Grease arm thoroughly, and make sure to install bushing from correct side:
    IMG_5368_zpsf0bf90c5_a0e950412899dda48e13a78757d11f661e448043.jpg
    IMG_5369_zpsc974d9af_efb0f4c87da617e0f212db28597f0719acf9ac37.jpg
    Now, grease bushing thoroughly again and install sleeve:
    IMG_5370_zps309ca4ec_34bacce0f72a1e31e7154c7f31610b81225de39c.jpg
    How backside should look:
    IMG_5371_zpsd7336fbc_a20ab12d214edeacce61eb62528aeb0f6514b0cc.jpg
    The upper control arm is now ready to install with the supplied washers!

    Now, onto the lowers, which are a little trickier...

    Remove arm, place in vise, and heat the OUTER (larger) washer:
    IMG_5376_zpsa02c1d6f_98396a49b189e54298f30d8848032f19d45554f0.jpg
    Use press to push inner sleeve back, which will in turn pop the washer off (will take quite a bit of force) Be careful, as these LCA parts will be reused!
    IMG_5377_zpsf7329a17_afc93cc8cb71d292ee9f492ebbfdb79a4e2e4194.jpg
    IMG_5378_zps8c95ac0e_cf9cd61c8f8d90a482a0f6197cf1858e9f7a855d.jpg
    Now, heat inner sleeve until rubber becomes soft and separates from sleeve:
    IMG_5380_zps69143d0d_0a33a62073559ebfab65eaf252d51bef34aadb31.jpg
    Use BJ press again to push sleeve out:
    IMG_5382_zpsf87e3be0_94cad7be25ab233198322d3b93c8b57f4595c334.jpg
    When sleeve comes out, there will be some residual rubber on it, which while still hot can easily be scraped off with a razor blade:
    IMG_5387_zpsc6a0c6c0_c779ec659ad9caf72694c5a17f783a9f8e5ff2a8.jpg

    NOW... repeat process of removing bushing from arm using sawzall/burr bit.

    From using the press to remove washer, it will most likely have become concave... you will want to bend it back to slightly convex, so that way the teeth grip on your LCA mounts, keeping your alignment in check:
    IMG_5388_zps2700e3ff_9514b15e721c879414c33f84210f3382148a02ae.jpg
    IMG_5389_zps6963dc29_57ff4b79e6cb8b5b656eae374b69081e3ab61940.jpg
    IMG_5392_zpsa312f07c_b31816f56742ade7c08be94921ab66daae4d7c46.jpg
    Before you install the sleeve and bushing, bend the portion of the sleeve that the washer slides over back to straight, that way the washer goes on without trouble:
    IMG_5393_zps062888ad_5f1b71bd18251b11866ec34658c2e319d2f7a726.jpg
    Grease bushing, and slide into place, then take sleeve and grease as well. I had to use the press in order to keep bushing from coming out of arm while sleeve was being slid into bushing:
    IMG_5394_zpsb443986b_880abe33c154f84866c91f108c5d42f12227f93d.jpg
    IMG_5395_zps0fa1b360_7e8af909705a172f75534b0ea61bcf5cdff54495.jpg
    IMG_5396_zps45d9b350_f68c9767e74ab30ae98715400d33bca2064ad2c5.jpg
    Finally, use vise to press the washer back onto the sleeve:
    IMG_5397_zpsf7d133eb_68f98c481e6eea9288d7caefac6aa2be5ca2d678.jpg

    This is the LCA, ready to back in:
    IMG_5358_zps02f7ee0e_09fbb56ef8c0c94d0d032a631e43dc4563f210ab.jpg
    Just slap it all back together-
    20130516_173802_zps9f741a57_35a3619cb203c240c8f02745f8e58393220bc29d.jpg:eek:

    There you have it... it may not be well organized, or the best procedure, but it's my first write-up, so give me a break! :D
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #1
    Clucky, rackomint, Nod69er and 7 others like this.
  2. Jun 1, 2013 at 12:23 PM
    #2
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2011
    Member:
    #65324
    Messages:
    1,125
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Salty Hell
    Vehicle:
    '00 Acc Cab TRD 4x4
    I will definitely need to do the lowers soon.

    thanks for the write up
     
  3. Jun 1, 2013 at 12:49 PM
    #3
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    Member:
    #45512
    Messages:
    2,115
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    1998 Limited
    thank you!

    Good write-up!

    Hope I never have to do this...
     
  4. Jun 1, 2013 at 1:03 PM
    #4
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 A dude

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2012
    Member:
    #91944
    Messages:
    2,216
    Gender:
    Male
    Mass
    Vehicle:
    15’ ACLB
    Some of this Some of that
    Just a heads up the poly bushings wear out pretty quick, maybe drill out the bushing and add a zerk fitting to get some grease in there! But nice write up nevertheless
     
  5. Jun 1, 2013 at 1:19 PM
    #5
    blknblubkrdude

    blknblubkrdude [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2009
    Member:
    #17559
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Gillette, WY
    Vehicle:
    96 Taco. 4X4, 5MT, 2.7
    Oil field truck with 250k miles...original powertain. Wheelers 881's/5-pack, Energy bushings throughout.
    I'm surprised you've seen them wear out before! Are you speaking of the control arm ones specifically?

    When I was into Jeeps I ran all poly bushings for 5 years/75k with no wear problems! We shall see how long these last...
     
  6. Jun 1, 2013 at 9:24 PM
    #6
    gainman

    gainman Semper Fi

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2008
    Member:
    #10185
    Messages:
    3,541
    Gender:
    Male
    SW Florida
    Vehicle:
    2012 TRD Sport Supercharged Manual
    Stuff
    what are some symptoms to know its time to replace?
     
  7. Jun 1, 2013 at 10:10 PM
    #7
    banditstpk

    banditstpk Pabst knows best

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2013
    Member:
    #95203
    Messages:
    606
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    patrick
    buckeye arizona
    Vehicle:
    00 3.4L PreRunner TRD SR5 Xtracab
    deck plate, led lights interior, center hubs painted black,
    this NEEDS to be stickied or added to the DIY thread!! i did my upper and lowers about a month ago and this would have been a huge help!! my methods were different but i did not have anything to go on and this method shown is pretty simple and works
     
    Firebird likes this.
  8. Jun 7, 2013 at 6:31 PM
    #8
    TejasYOTA

    TejasYOTA Countinuous improvement

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Member:
    #23789
    Messages:
    344
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nathan
    Country of TEXAS!
    Vehicle:
    "WOOKIE" 01 Tacoma DC TRD Limited 4WD
    Check the TTORA Garage Section....
    Great job! Bookmarked.
     
  9. Aug 26, 2013 at 1:02 PM
    #9
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2011
    Member:
    #51211
    Messages:
    8,576
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ian
    West Kootenays
    Vehicle:
    1996 Tacoma SR5
    3" Eibach Coils, 3" AP Springs, AP 6" Shackles Toytec Diff drop, BAMF Sliders, Deck plate mod,Volt meter, Highbeam mod, PIAA fogs, 18" Magnaflow, LED dash swap, Color matched Satoshi Grille, Custom Rear Plate Bumper
    Good write-up. My LCA bushings are shot, but instead of replacing the bushings i went ahead and ordered new complete Mevotech LCA's from RockAuto for $100 each.
     
  10. Jul 11, 2014 at 7:47 PM
    #10
    donutslayer

    donutslayer Member

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2013
    Member:
    #106448
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Santa Fe
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma 4wd
    I wish I had found this write up a few hours ago. I managed to cut the flange of the inner sleeve in the UCA just not thinking it was necessary for it to come out. The flange on the right side, shown in your 8th picture, where it is clamped in the vice. Now that the old bushing came out I realize that was a rather stupid idea. Now my options are to replace a perfectly good UCA or fabricate a washer to mimic the thickness of the flange. Thoughts and recommendations?
     
  11. Jul 14, 2014 at 11:39 AM
    #11
    blknblubkrdude

    blknblubkrdude [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2009
    Member:
    #17559
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Gillette, WY
    Vehicle:
    96 Taco. 4X4, 5MT, 2.7
    Oil field truck with 250k miles...original powertain. Wheelers 881's/5-pack, Energy bushings throughout.
    You are speaking of the flange that is on the outside of the sleeve that I recommended pressing farther into the control arm? I think a couple fender washers and a grinder/bur bit should be able to replicate it just fine!
     
  12. Jul 15, 2014 at 8:31 PM
    #12
    donutslayer

    donutslayer Member

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2013
    Member:
    #106448
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    Santa Fe
    Vehicle:
    01 Tacoma 4wd
    Well, I went down to the local welding shop and had the flanges welded back onto the UCA. It worked out just fine, even though it looks awful.

    On one side there were not any troubles. However, the other side is definitely making up for it. As I was using the ball joint press to press out the washer of the lower control arm bushing I heard a loud pop. I was expecting this since you had mentioned it. The loud pop was not just the washed popping off the sleeve, but the washer cracking. Not just a little crack either, but all the way through. I guess that I am going to try and fabricate one, then rough it up with the burr grinder, as you suggested. Unless you have any other ideas.
     
  13. Jul 18, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #13
    TJF

    TJF Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2014
    Member:
    #124180
    Messages:
    50
    Gender:
    Male
    NM
    Vehicle:
    01 xtra cab 2.7 4x4
    After seeing the pain he went through I would day I am doing the same when the time comes.
     
  14. Oct 1, 2014 at 11:10 AM
    #14
    TBeers

    TBeers Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Member:
    #101708
    Messages:
    63
    Gender:
    Male
    Montana
    Vehicle:
    Tacoma DLX 3.4 4x4
    Great write up! Just did mine too, but ran into a problem with the Energy Suspension directions. They say to press out the inner metal sleeve on the upper control arm bushing - they never say you reuse them. So I cut mine out and was PISSED when the bushing had a ton of slop i.e., you have to reuse the inner metal sleeve on the uppers too, not just the lowers.

    All and all, I burned all the rubber out of the arms with an acetylene torch, wire wheel cleaned it, and pressed them back in pretty easy. Tight as a BMW now.
     
  15. Nov 23, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    #15
    EB Group

    EB Group Carbon Jedi

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2015
    Member:
    #159469
    Messages:
    1,406
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rudy
    Halifax
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD Sport DCSB 6M
    Well done, Thank you for putting this together.
    I will be doing many bushing replacements in my '01 over the next year or so. This is the first walkthrough for bushing replacements I have found.
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #15
  16. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:10 AM
    #16
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Member:
    #100471
    Messages:
    2,261
    Gender:
    Male
    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
  17. May 23, 2017 at 10:30 AM
    #17
    quetzal

    quetzal Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2014
    Member:
    #128011
    Messages:
    1,488
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mario
    Long Beach, CA
    Vehicle:
    '02 XtraCab SR5 TRD 4x4 5spd
    All-Pro UCAs, King 2.5 C/Os, All-Pro Expo Leafs, Bilstein 10" Shocks
  18. May 24, 2017 at 11:06 AM
    #18
    dgshelto

    dgshelto Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2017
    Member:
    #216704
    Messages:
    87
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    David
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    1999 Tacoma TRD 4x4
    This is awesome! Thank you for the step-by-step with high quality photos.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top