System Help!!

Need help with deciding on decent mids to replace the door speakers as well as an amp for my subs. Currently I have the Pioneer AVH 8400bh HU and 2 JL Audio 10w1-8. I am looking at spending $150-$300 on the door speakers and the same on the amp for my subs. All options and help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I've got an Alpine PDX-M6 for sale, 640w on the birth sheet at 4 ohms. Same at 2 ohms. I could let it go for $300 plus shipping if you're interested.

As for door speakers, I'm a fan of JL products, I run the C2-250 door speakers, and they are perfect for me. Other than that, hit some audio shops and listen to see what sounds good to you.

 

Question I saw someone talking about buying a specific amp w/ ohms based off the speaker?? Not familiar with the ohms and what impact it has. Could I buy something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AUDIOBA...6175503?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2329dc8e0f
What channel amp do I need and how high a wattage 1500 2000 2500?

 

The W1's aren't designed to handle huge power. Add to that they are more than likely wired to 4ohm, you won't see the potential from that amp. Honestly, 5-600w is about the max that thise speakers can handle.

 

What ^ said. The W1s don't need alot of power to sound great. If it were me I would go with a 2 channel amp such as this one http://jlaudio-mobile.shptron.com/p/jx360-2?pp=12 ... I know the stats don't look that impressive compared to others but it has more than enough power to push both of those 10s.

As far as the door speakers go don't get anything that will require alot of power or else you are just wasting your money. The tiny amplifier in the head unit is only capable of so much. If you're like me and you like you're music to sound good and not just be loud you should look into getting a 4 channel amplifier and use 2 channels to power the front door speakers and 2 channels to power the subs. It wouldn't be that much more and would add alot more depth to your mids.

 

Ok so maybe a 4 channel amplifier 500-800 watts? I am also a DC, so what about the rear door speakers? I am not familiar with how these are all wired together as I haven't taken the doors apart yet and or messed with all the wiring besides installing the DD unit.

This maybe? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CRUNCH-...6183152?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item460d9e3670

What size door speakers do I have front and rear? Need clarification before I order

Also, if I run a 4 channel amp and want more wattage to the subs than the door speakers is that possible or should I get a larger 2 channel and smaller one for the door speakers.

 

Ok another thought or question. I got this unit from a TW member and all the harnesses speaker wires were cut. Whats a good harness I can order to connect to this HU to connect to the factory unit?

 

What about these??
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html

 

Good components. I run them in my truck off of an

$320 Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

Alpine KTP-445U universal power pack. I've got the power pack bridged, so they get 90w. Good sound from them, clear and crisp. I have an old set of Infinity speakers in the rear doors that I run off the deck. The only one who sits back there often enough is my daughter, and I don't crank it when she's there anyways.

 

So here is the diagram I have drawn up so far. If I use a crossover on each of the front speakers how do I wire this correctly with the door speakers connected to a 4 channel amplifier and how does this tie in the my HU?? And is a distribution block necessary?

 

I've always used a 4-channel amp with one side bridged going to a single sub. If I was running 2 subs, I would probably opt for a separate amp for the subs and door speakers.

With component front speakers w/crossovers, you just run the wires from the amp to the crossover, and then from the crossover to the speakers. Most will come with the wires you need, and also allow you to boost the tweeter a little if needed.

As ZMan said, you can run the back speakers from the HU. I usually don't even change them out and run them at very low volume for ambience only.

I always get my stuff from Crutchfield (usually scratch-and-dent, and it is always in perfect shape), so I get the harness and any speaker adapters needed for free. That way you don't have to cut any wires, and I just use the existing wires routed to the doors.

 

So how does this look w another 2 channel amp and added crossovers?? What are the crossovers for anyways?

 

That looks right.

The crossovers cut power down to a speaker for frequencies that the speakers cannot reproduce easily. For example, tweeters are only good in high ranges, so sending frequencies below around 4KHz to 6KHz is a waste and may distort the sound. The mid-woofer would get frequencies from about 120Hz to 4KHz, and the subs somewhere below 120Hz. Crossovers and truly fine-tuning a system, the space, and the speakers is a complicated subject that I know very little about, but those are the basics.

The amp should have a way to set it up for subs and cut frequencies above a certain frequency, kind of a built-in crossover. Head units that have a SW output can do this is well. Make sure to check both the amp and the HU setting.

 

One thing you might want to consider with your wiring options is connecting your subwoofers in parallel across a mono channel amp. This would allow your resistance seen by the amplifier to be 4 ohms instead of 8 ohms (the 8 in the 10w1-8 indicates the resistance of the sub) therefore increasing the amount of power that the amp delivers to the sub.

example wiring
http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/attachments/car-entertainment-electronics-gps-navigation/555686d1217679720-subwoofer-wiring-diagrams-big-3-upgrade-2svc_8-ohm_mono_ox6_pakwheels-com-.jpg

Also if your interested I have a 2 channel ZX150.2 kicker amp that I would let go for $40 plus shipping. It is rated at 150 W RMS and 300 W peak. It would be good for powering your front 2 doors. PM me if youre interested. I used it for a few years before upgrading to a 4 channel JL amp.