Manwithoutaplan Build

i crimped new ends onto every wire. wanted to standardize what i was using. plus, this is the best time to rerun anything that you may have rushed the first time, need to change the length of, or if you now know of a better way to do/rout it.

 

One question is i am running HId lights does that still need to go directly go to the battery or can that go to the fuse panel??

Did you use new battery terminal connections??

 

as long as ytou dont surpass the amp rating on the panel, you can run anything you want from it, HIDs included.

i got a pair of tsunami gold plated terminals to aid in the extra jung i needed to attach to it. aux fuse box, winch, and stereo amp all together weren't working too well with the factory terminals.

 

Wow that is very clean, very nice. Well done.

How much were those sunami gold plated terminals?

 

thank you

i think they were $14 a piece at autozone. not bad, and very easy to use. they have hex set screws to hold everything in. i just put a little solder on the ends first. not enough to make it a solid piece of cable, but enough so that the set screw doesn't just blow through the wires when cranket down. still allows the wire to conform to the inside of the terminal for good surface area contact.

only alteration i made was i bought a longer clamp bolt for the positive terminal for the extra stuff i have on it. they actually sell an extended bolt to match for the exact purpose, but i had one laying around. not gold plated to match, but it's worked so far

 

ok cool. I will check them out.

What gauge wire is the ground wire going to the fender do you know??

Looking into the dual battery thing so when i get a winch i will have no problem. Just trying to figure which way to go.

Looking into blue sea system
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_17208_#.UijJENKsjTo




have you ever seen this? Is it waste of money.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-25hn?itemIdentifier=423758&_requestid=204211

 

not sure of the wire going to the fender, that's just the factory wire with the end fitting cut off so it goes into the tsunami. i'd guess 4 maybe?

That blue sea setup is nice and simple, but it has a pretty low amperage rating compared to some of the other options. The national luna is the most common one i've seen (and helped instal). it has a good capacity, and also has a monitoring display. sorta pricey though. talk to PSUtaco85 about his dualt setup though. i forget the name, but it functions in a similar fasion to the national luna. it doesn't have the in-cab monitoring, but can handle higher amperages, and costs about half if i remember correctly.

that second link is just something you'd add to a battery, regardless of whether it's a dual setup or not. if you go with the national luna, it has those exact monitoring features built in.

 

Damn 300 c notes is alot though ...but i guess you have to pay to play.

 

Colinb17 did you notice any difference when you put the yellow top battery in compared to regular battery?

 

yeah, but you get a lot more though in terms of features and power capacity though. talk to anthony though. i'm pretty sure his was in the $200 range.

Yeah, factory one was dead and the yellowtop wasn't

but no, not really. it's held up better to the beatings and repeated deep drainings and recharges, but there's no difference in day to day around town driving.

 

Do you have hard time getting into the Toyota fuse panel ? I created and creating neg and positive quick disconnects.

 

nope, left enough slack in the wires on the battery side that i can just pop it open as usual and then flip the cover over, towards the windshield.

 

Yea i have talked to him little
The blue sea kit was about $150
ATO DUal holder is about $150
Two Yellow top is about $450

Always battled whether to get one. Would a blue top not work for are application?

 

ok.

I will have to take that into consideration when finally wrapped up this electrical project up.

 

internally the blue and yellow are almost identicle, with the only power related difference being that optima claims the blue has a slower sitting discharge rate. reasoning behind that is that people often leave their boats unused over the winter or for a longer duration for whatever reason. not really a big deal for our trucks unless you're getting deployed overseas or something.

some of the larger versions have 4 posts instead of 2. difference there is that the extra two posts on the blue are on top, and the extra posts on the yellow are screw in style on the side.

you'd be fine with either one.

my next battery however will be a diehard platinum. it's a sealed/durable battery, like the optimas. they are made by Odyssey and have the same internals/construction as the odysseys, but cost less because diehard is technically a sears brand battery. seen them in action in a number of harsh demand vehicles. great batteries.

 

Yea i saved a link on my build for that Diehard Platium. I know Monkey proof stuffed one of those in his truck.

 

It's a solid choice.

 

yea it is has like 1100 Cold Cranking amp , when Stock has 700. How many CCA does the yellow top have?

 

i'm not sure, the stamp rubbed off long ago lol. i think it was the same as stock. the battery itself is a good bit smaller than the stock battery that comes with they towing package though, so if you went with a bigger one, you could probably fit a yellowtop with somewhere in the neighborhood or 1000 cca.

 

Damn i forgot that the Die hard battery was almost 300 bucks