The upgrade ClusterF**... and lots of questions

Before ya'll jump on me for not searching before posting... I did. and got more confused. Each of the problems I'm gonna run into have been addressed separately, but not together- thus my confusion


my extended coilovers and new leaf pack are on their way and should land me 3" of lift
and I've beat the hell out of my stock rugged fails so hey why not upgrade while the suspension is brand new?
but I worry I'm about to blow pandora's box open:
I want REAL beadlocks with the biggest tire I can manage with full articulation.

I think that means a 285, but using the tire sizing guide tool thingy, comparing stock 265's with some 285's looks like the tire is exactly the same size
-Can someone explain why some 285's are bigger than others? I thought the second number was the amount of sidewall and the third number the rim size ?
-Any advice for beadlocks? with different geometry from the UCA and coilovers, should/ can I use different backspacing dimensions etc for beadlock rims?
-How do I measure this stuff out to start from scratch searching for wheels and tires to get it right?
-Has anyone had success using "cloned" TPMS sensors in a separate set of wheels?
-Anyone have any advice for a place around the 909 that'll actually balance a set of beadlocks?
-Any recommendations on a good set of mean tires? My rig sits home all week while I drive my work truck so she only leaves the driveway when she's headed to crawl climb cruise and camp so I need grip and ability to handle rocks in the sidewall not MPG or wear life.

Thanks in advance for any guidance or links to the right direction!

 

The second number is the side wall ratio in relation to the width.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=46

 

Why do you want Beadlock wheels ? In most cases bead locks are not DOT legal, and dot legal beadlocks are way expensive. bead lock nuts need to be checked constantly. Get yourself a foe beadlock and do yourself a favor, unless you are airing down to super low pressure or jumping around like a trophy truck, they just are not needed.

Tire manufacturer should all be pretty close to each other for sizes, but some do vary, but not that much.

 

Agreed they're probably overkill. But I'll want them down the road in this build and I'd rather do it the way I really want the first time. someday when I break down and go long travel they'll match the abilities a little better. I don't mind the DOT problems- worst case I get a fix it ticket, go swap my stock rims and switch back after its cleared. But how often are people really pulled over? Also, if I end up bailing on this plan, this thread will probably help the next poor soul that wants to go from stock rims to beadlocks.

Gelo- nope I sold the 2000 I've been building the '13 this whole time. I gotta update that...
Bullaculla- thanks that cleared up what I was confused about on tires.

Anyone know how to measure for the right rim dimensions? Or should I just find one that matches stock measurements?
Thanks guys

 

I would just go with something proven to work. The 4.5" back spacing has been working well for most people. Not sure on the offset tho. Mine has 0 offset and rubs lightly with 265/75/16 duratracs. I wanted 285s until I saw my buddy fully stuff his 285 and nearly tore off his rear fender flares. Longer bump stops would solve that, but you lose flex. You would need to chop a bunch of plastic off the front and possible CMC if you want full articulation. But probably already knew that
Maybe when my truck is a few years older, I'd be more willing to chop and go 285s or bigger.

 

Then you cant go wrong with Walker Evans or trail ready bead locks. Not terribly expensive and proven as well as good looking wheels.