Can't start her!

^^^^ this

A simple multi-meter reading just tells you the voltage under a no load condition. You need to test it under load to get the honest condition of the battery.

Have someone crank the battery/starter while you're reading the voltage.

 

She was a dead green eye as suspected. Dropped in a new $99 Everstart (could not find a die hard at 3am) and started immediately. Glad I changed it out cause I swear the truck is running like brand new. Way better start up, idle and acceleration. Whodathunkit. Thanks guys!

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Can't start her....Thats what she said...

 

Problem is that Lead-Acid batteries are not the same as household rechargeables.
If a conventional battery is deep cycled, it can lose up to 20% of its capacity. Do it twice and it is likely toast or close to it, especially if it is a couple or three years old. A new battery might survive, but it lopped some time off of the life.

Golf cart, RV, and trolling batteries are designed differently and are more resistant to this (though not immune), but they do this at the expense of CCA. They can run longer and cycle lower, but they don't put out the raw amperage of a battery designed to start a vehicle.

There is more than one reason dual batteries are a must for campers/trailers or other applications where the battery is in use for extended times with the engine off.


On the alternator failing, if the discharge on the battery cause a cell to short, then the battery would have drawn excessive charge current which would have damaged the alternator.

 

Good job man.
Glad to be of help.

That Everstart is a decent battery. I think that's what's in my wife's Rav4.

 

Yeah I got the 24f, which is the more expensive longer lasting model. Glad I have you fellas here in a bind.

 

^^ Pwitty.

 

IMHO, your alternator guy has given you excellent advice. The reason is that the alternator's output is proportional to the engine RPM and distance you drive. It supplies power to your electrical load first and if there is any left over, tries to recharge the battery. If the accumulative load is greater than the accumulative output, then the battery makes up the difference until it is discharged. So it is best to fully recharge a dead battery with a battery charger first and then test the battery and alternator to determine if they are healthy. Auto parts and battery stores will typically test your battery and alternator for free.

Undercharging, terminal/post corrosion or low electrolyte levels are the three most common battery maintenance problems for a healthy battery.