At my wits end....(Shake)

I would highly doubt those are steel wheels. And try hub centric rings, you know the ones that have been mentioned a few times.....

 

That guy is smoking crack, if those were steel they would weigh 200lbs each as thick as that cast is. Sounds like you have a bunch of hillbillie back woods tire shops in your area. Alloy wheels require tape on weights on the inside of the drum. Arent there any les Schwabs or Discount Tire shops out there?

 

Get some steelies

 

Those are very clearly aluminum wheels, looks like they use stick on wheel weights, as there appears to be no outside lip to hammer on traditional weights. Maybe the 'tech' has never heard of that.. I'd take it to somewhere that can actually balence them. With mud tires it's pretty likely they are out of balence

 

Morning Gents.
The wheels have the stick on weights on the inside of the wheel.
There is no lip to attach a weight on the outside.
I think they are aluminum cause the inside are corroded a bit, and the corrosion is white in color, not rust.

I am looking for a set of stock wheels, but I wanted to ask you guys about the wheel width. The tires are 11.5, so would a stock wheel be ok to use on a 11.5 tire? I think the stock OEM wheels are 7" wide, but not 100% sure on that. Where can I find this info?

A wild idea has entered my pea brain. Is it possible to save these wheels by blasting and repainting? Or, are they just trash, and I need to get another set of steel wheels?

Thanks guys,
Pujo

 

Call a local powder coater and ask what they charge per wheel for sandblasting and coating (mine were $100 per wheel and they coated the entire wheel). Or you can look on craigslist for a set of toyota 15's. Or look for a whole different set! Those tires will fit oem wheels just fine, might need spidertrax wheel spacers up front to clear the upper control arm.

 

Is it worth doing? As the tire shop said, the weights will only be on the inside of the wheel. I am starting to get confused. So blasting and painting will work, but can I get a good balance from these type of wheels?

 

I spent 2 years chasing this problem. I tried every avenue of attack, and just started throwing money at it to fix it. it worked.

I lifted my truck 3 inches

Things I replaced/bought:
New rear axle bearings/seals/turned drums
New Hankook Dynapro AT-M tires (roadforce balanced, sticky weights)
New rebuilt front CV shafts
Shimmed Rear Axle
Re-balanced drive shaft
New OEM carrier Bearing
Old Man Emu kit (shocks, coils, leafs, trim packer, ect)
New LCA bushings
East Coast Gear Supply front diff bushing
Rebuilt calipers, new pads, brembo blanks, stainless lines
Front Diff Drop
Amsoil Severe Gear

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 gear oil in both diffs/xfer case
Light Racing UCA's
Alignment (Toe:0, Camber:0.2 Both, Caster: +2.1)
Energy Suspension CAB mount bushings
Energy Suspension Rack bushings
Energy Suspension Sway bar bushings/endlinks
Sway bar drop bracket
New OEM lower ball joints
New inner/outer tie rods


After all this, any shake/wobbled, I ever had, died.
Now I cruise on the highway, and look down to realize im doing 85mph, and have to slow down. Its super smooth now.