U-Joint Replacement

I will take an alt. for $5

 

Yes, I would not buy the Dorman bearing, that thing is a piece of shit. They have a lifetime warranty but it's a crap bearing. I went through 2 of them in under 1,000 miles on each one. Rock Auto honors the warranty, sent me a new one each time but I finally got fed up and bought an OEM bearing. Rock Auto was great, they gave me a store credit and bought the bearing back from me.

Here's the thing though, the Dorman bearing got rid of my shutter, it came back with the OEM bearing. The problem with the Dorman bearing (at least the problem I had) was they don't put enough grease in them from the factory and it's a sealed bearing. Within a few hundred miles, both were squeeling like stuck pigs.

 

Roger that. I hadn't looked at pricing on RockAuto just yet. The driveshaftparts bearing is cheaper anyways. Ordered everything today.

 

Damn, wish I had known about that. I blew $150 on the OEM bearing only to have my vibes come back The Dorman bearing from Rock Auto was $40 when I bought it.

 

driveshaftparts.com is $25

 

Just got these in. Waiting on the carrier bearing.

 

WOOT
REMEMBER MARK EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT
AND PACK THE NEEDLES IN THE CUP SO U DON'T LOOSE ANY ON INSTALL
AND BE PREPARED FOR GREASE TO SHOOT OUT THE ZERK OPENINGS AS YOU INSTALL THEM
ASK ME HOW I KNOW......
I USED A 17MM DEEP SOCKET AND A BFH AND MY PLUMBING VISE MADE QUICK WORK OF IT
AND TO REMOVE THE BEARING I FOUND A PULLER USELESS AND USE A BFH AND A COLD CHISEL AND SHE CAM RIGHT OFF

 

Check, check, check. I think I'll see these marks.

 

make sure it no wash away with say brake cleaner
ask me how i know

 

Lol

 

I'm ready to get to work.

 

All done, no hiccups, all smooth.

 

wooot

 

Hey I'm starting to get this metal grinding noise as everyone else described and it sounds like a ujoint so I'm going to replace all 3. 110k 08 dblcab 2wd PreRunner. I've watched a few YouTube videos but what do you mean by mark everything? Mark the shaft coming out of the back of the tranny/front of rear diff in line to the drive shaft so that when it all goes back in its the same way it came out?

 

Yes.

 

i had the most forward ujoint on the driveshaft go out. It honestly sounded like something in the diffrential was messed up. i was super worried. I then got bad vibrations within a few days. And popping that went insync with wheel movement. I actually got in the bed and had the wife drive me around the neighborhod and figured out exactly where the noise was.

Also, after i greased the culprit u joint and drove around a little. It flung most all the grease out of it. That is when i knew FOR SURE which joint was bad. The other two held the grease.

 

Thought I would chime in here, even though it's an older thread. I had vibration issues in mine while off the gas and coasting, and on the gas at lower rpm's. Took the truck to the dealer today and they said both joints on the rear shaft had some play (regular cab, no carrier). The estimate they gave me was insane. To replace both joints and labor it would have cost me......... $541.00! I asked the service writer if he was trying to be funny. He did tell me that the tech knocked half of the labor off of one of the joints as he felt bad about charging the full labor to replace both. Go figure... I'm not sure if those joints were gold plated, should have asked.

 

I guess I need to go check mine. My symptoms are very rough vibrations upon acceleration from roughly 5-10MPH, and no real vibrations when I'm coasting, but there is a loud clunk. I'm at 122k and have been having a lot of issues lately. Seemingly on a daily basis I have new issues arising.

 

Last time i heard a clunk in a driveshaft was when my Ranger was missing a quarter of one of my caps. Check that quick! Pump all your joints full of grease, take a drive around the block, and then look for the one that puked its grease.

 

So maybe you guys in this thread can help me out. I have read through this thread and I originally thought I may have a bad u joint but I'm not sure. The symptom is that I am getting a vibration through the pedal and floorboard whenever I depress the gas pedal, even slightly, at about 65mph+. I am not getting vibrations below this speed whether or not I am on the gas pedal. I will crawl under and check for play by twisting and also pulling and pushing front to rear (I think I read the truck must be in neutral for that part). Anyone with ideas or suggestions?