Stormtrooper DD/mpg/Trail-capible build

I decided to start a new build thread now that I have focused in on the ultimate goals of my tacoma. I want to build my truck up with mods that take into account that it is my Daily Driver. That means that most of the mods done will reflect my desire to get the best MPG possible but also make it a weekend trail warrior.

I have a 2007 base model 2.7L I4 access cab 4x4.



Since this is one thing I am going for than not many other major modders are going for, I will start with the gas-conscious decisions I have made:

• Most important is my driving style. I get up to speed and higher gears promplty but smoothly, and coast in neutral any time I can.
• I switched my engine oil over to Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0W-20
• I switched the transmission, front differential, transfer case and rear differential over to Mobil 1 fully synthetic
  $29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)
  75W-90
• I removed the secondary air filter and added an AFE Pro Dry S drop-in air filter, but noticed .5-1 MPG increase. Not much but the fact that I will never have to buy another air filter without sacrificing MPG is great.
• I am selling my 17" FJ rims so I can stick to 16" wheel with a smaller tire
  (and look more proportioned doing it) to save mpgs.
• Next I will add either 245/75R16 or 255/70R16 tires to keep a smaller size and save on some fuel consumption. I don't have a need for huge tires, just better traction.
• Those tires I have decided to be Bridgestone Dueller Revo ATs since they have better traction ratings than BFG ATs and seem to be the most street friendly ATs out there.
• I have decided against a big lift and am instead doing to leave it stock or add some shocks to level it only.
• I am thinking about selling my sliders (never installed) to keep the 90lbs off of my truck, but have not decided yet.
• Installed Doug thorely Long tube headers. Lost a little power in the low end, but have a nice gain at 1500-2000 rpms and above

So far I have upgraded the head unit to an alpine CDA 9884 head unit with amplified aftermarket speakers. I am currently reinstalling the speakers while deadening the truck.

I did a White headlight mod, blacked out the emblems, and added a white shorty antennae.


Then I swapped hoods with another member


The less notable additions were the SR5 seat covers and TRD floor mats.


To sum it up...

Things DONE:

• White headlights
• White shorty Antennae
• Black emblems
• Mobil 1 oil in engine, transmission, front diff, transfer case, rear diff
• AFE Pro Dry S Drop in Air filter with removed secondary air filter
• TRD Floor mats
• SR5 Seat covers
• Doug Thorely Long tube Headers

Things waiting to be installed:

• Sliders (may sell)
• LEDs for gauge cluster
• Sockmonkey bedside decals

Future mods:

• Dynomax muffler
• 16" steel wheels (after I sell my current FJ wheels)
• Bridstone Dueller Revos in 245/75or 255/70
• ARB Rear locker (after truck is fully paid off)

 

This post will be to track my MPG. I typically run two types of gas and fill up at the same pump every time: Chevron 89 octane (ethanol free) when I am at school or Shell 93 octane (10% ethanol) when I am at home:

Best tank yet was (re) filled on may 23rd 2009 and was

328.8 miles filled at 11.801 gallons yielding about 27.86 mpg


Now for the rest:

 

Great job! It's very wise to focus on MPG's, because we never know where gas prices might end up next!

 

why do you want to switch to steel wheels???

they would be heavier and thus hurt your mpg's.

 

Well I have the stock 16" steelies on the base model packages so I was going to stay with steelies for extra offroading resiliance.

However you make a good point and I guess if I don't install my sliders I would be avoinding bad offroading situations. If I find some alloys that look as sick as the steelies I have picked out and are comparable in price, I will look into them

 

which ones do you have picked out?

 

Its a secret


(check your email in half an hour when I get off)

 

So I have my headers install almost lined up and ready to go thanks to VTRagweed and I am also starting to line things up for my satoshi grill. How do people mount the emblems on the satoshis?

Wheels and tires are on hold until I can sell my FJ wheels

 

Got my headers on with a huge thanks to vtragweed! I notice a very small power loss when starting from a stop, but get a good gain above 1500-2000rpms. My logic, and it may be flawed, is that in interstate travel when my truck is under the greatest load, it won't have to work as hard and will hopefully help mpg. I will find out if this is true when I drive 250 miles on the interstate to school next week.

 

My stock wheel set up is roughly 35 lb for the rim, and 36 (or 34 not sure which) lb per 245/75/16 dunlops.

The set up I am looking at is 37 lb per rim, and 38 lb per 255/70/15 Bridgestone dueller revo

I would be adding about 12 lbs with the new set up, so I don't think it will affect my MPG too much.

Also via the Tire size calculator, I have found that since the diameter is smaller, the revolutions per mile will be more. Thus I would not lose and mpg in this manner.

 

Keep in mind that the more revolutions per mile, the faster your tire treads will wear out.

 

Yup I thought about that, but my dunlops are last so freaking long...way TOO long. I want them to wear out

 

Gotcha!

Yeah, the Dunflops are a long lasting tire...

 

Thats about the only good thing about them. They repainted many of the roads on campus this summer and whenever the tires went over the new paint, they would just spin

 

Yeah, I've had that happen a couple times on me before.

 

I have some white LED's that I was going to use that I decided not to I could let go to ya if you want

 

FWIW, going to a smaller diameter wheel means higher engine RPM's at a given speed. That means burning more fuel to maintain the higher RPM. It is like changing the rear end gear and going from a 3.73 to a 4.10 (though maybe not that drastic). Better acceleration, but mileage while cruising suffers.

If you want to improve your gas mileage by changing tire sizes, you will need to increase the overall diameter of the tire, therefore reducing the revolutions/mile.

Here's a little calculator to play with that will help illustrate how changing the tire sizes will affect engine speed: http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp

I am on much the same path as you, only with my big ass '90 Suburban. I recently changed out the rear end gears. I went from 4.10's to 3.43. Dropped my engine RPM's at 60mph by about 650rpm. I haven't driven it enough to get an accurate measurement, but the first tank after the gear swap showed ~ 40% improvement! (from 7mpg to 10mpg ).

Good luck

 

Thank you for the advice! I actually think I am going with 235/85/26s when I upgrade which will give me less contact with the road, but a larger diameter. However they only come in load range E which will make them slightly heavier than stock, so we will see what it does to MPG