Swapping Setups

So I have had my 8's in for some time now and just not happy with the sound. They sound good, just not loud enough for me. The Kicker C8's that I went with are limited to 4 ohms and that doesn't allow me to utilize all the power from my JL Audio 700/5.

They are for sale by the way!!! Throw me an offer!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacoma-marketplace/314917-2-kicker-comp-c8.html




So I am swapping the 8's for a JL Audio 10W1v3-2 (2 ohm).

http://www.jlaudio.com/10w1v3-2-car-audio-w1v3-subwoofer-drivers-92080




I have been in contact with Supercrew Sound and I ordered a custom box from them.

I usually build my own boxes as I did with the 8's, but the wood shop on base closed down due to the federal budget and I am not buying all the tools to use them just this once.

So, I have Supercrew Sound building this box...

http://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadbltriple.html

BUT, there will only be 1 10" cut out on the passenger side and the driver side compartment will be an amp rack. See attached picture.

This should get me roughly 0.9 cu/ft according to my calculations.

When I get it later this week, I'll port it myself to around 42hz.

Only thing left now is to order the sub. I am pumped!

 

How deep are you making the box? It looks to me like you'd have more than .9 cu.ft. I built a box for my two SD-2 10" subs, and with my measurements, I figure I've got 2 cu.ft. for a ported box on those. Unless the box isn't that deep, you should have around 1.5 cu.ft. with a 7" depth.

 

They do not list the actual depth of the bottom board length they use. When I did my calculations to get 0.9 cu/ft, I used 7" as my depth on the bottom because that is what my box I built is.

I have to get my hands on it later this week to get an accurate measurement of cu/ft, but using some rough estimates I figured 0.9 or a hair more.

 

What's the thickness of the material? You can get a measurement of 5" up top and 8" on the bottom. With your measurement of 29.25" and a material thickness of .75" you'd come up with a volume of around 1.5-1.6cu.ft. You could use that box size with a 10" if your porting and get really good bass out of it.

 

Thickness of material as listed on the website is 5/8". I will get more refined top and bottom depths when it arrives.

How are you getting a 5" top depth? The max I was able to get on my box for 8's is around 3.25".

 

Here is my volume calculator I like....use Wedge Enclosure 2.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

And here is my port calculator...best one I have found to trust.

http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm

Still going to have to wait and get measurements off the box to get a solid number.

It's fun anticipating though!

 

I was getting 5" as a total top measurement. So with 3/4" wood, that would put you around 2.5 or if you're brave 3" up top. I was using the same internal volume calculator, so we're good there. I don't know, I just think you'll have more volume than you think. You may want to try to get a 10" sub there, you should have the volume for it.

 

Oh I am going with the JL 10W1v3 which is a 10 inch sub.

I have 2 8" subs now that are going to be replaced.

 

Sweet. I think you'll love it.

 

Box is on it's way. It'll be here friday. I'll throw up some pics once I recieve it.

What is a good tuning point? I like mid 40's because most songs really don't have anything lower and have mainly tones above 40hz....any suggestions?

Been a LONGGGGG time since I ran a ported box.

 

I'm starting at 25Hz and going up from there. But my box has a removable port tube that I designed, so I'm not sure how you want to proceed. Maybe 40Hz is a good setup, especially if you listen to rock, as that's the lowest note a bass guitar can usually produce.

 

Ah. I am using a 3" piece of PVC cut down to a specific length....so I guess I could just swap it in a different length to change the tuning.

 

Yup. All depends on how you design the box. I got a flange for the 4" pipe I'm using, that I glued the vent tube to. The flange screws to the side of the box, and all I'd have to do is peel the silicone and re-seal the flange after I trim down the pipe. Don't forget to flare the ends of the pipe, just to eliminate chuffing or port noise. Sand it with a dremel and a sanding roller. No square edges on the pipe to keep the port noise to a minimum.

I got this http://www.homedepot.ca/product/closet-floor-flange-4-inch-x-3-inch-plastic/968451
to mount my pipe to. Glued it with some pipe glue, and then I can take the port out, cut it down to my new selected length, and re-seal and screw it back in.

 

So I got the box in. It looks great. I will try and get pics up sometime this weekend. After doing some measuring I have come up with 0.96 cu/ft internal volume.

To get this tuned to 40hz I can do a 2" round port at 4.5" or a 4" port at 19 1/8".

A 2 inch port seems really little to me. Any thoughts?

 

A two inch port will provide more backpressure on the sub, and will give you easy tuning. A 4" port will have less backpressure, so the port will need to be longer to provide the same level of sound. I'm using 4" because I have two subs in the same box. You should be fine with a 2" port, and the length will be shorter, making fitting it in the box easier. It's your call on which you use, but I like the 4" port, because it gives you a longer tube, and you can really tune it easier, as you have more port to trim to get the sound you want.

 

ONCE AGAIN, ME AND THIS COMPUTER DO NOT GET ALONG. IT KEEPS FLIPPING PICTURES ONCE UPLOADED.

So here is the box. Overall, it was well worth the $190 shipped to my door. It's $149 on their site but I "upgraded" to the gray carpet.

I am impressed with the quality overall. Only thing that is lacking is the carpeting which you can see in the pics below.

Also, I have a JL Audio 700/5 and it won't fit on the actual brace surround so I am going to mount it below the brace surround UPSIDE DOWN. Yea, the amp will have to be upside down to fit.

I know I know...bad idea. BUT, and I know this sounds ghetto, but the port will be exiting the box right beside the amp rack and should provide enough moving air to keep everything cool.

I will cut a groove in the underside of the brace for the wires to run though.

Here are the pics...






Here you can see the shoddy carpeting job at the seams.


Amp Right Side up...You can see that I could do it this way, but I am pretty sure this box sits directly against back wall and getting your fingers under the amp to hook wires in would be a pain in the ass!



Amp upside down....You can see how if I cut a groove in the underside of that brace surround I can run the wires easily down into the amp and then mount it.

 

Good to know because I just spent $1.59 on two feet of 2" PVC. Almost went broke on that one....

 

Box looks good. The box side was smaller than I was expecting. You could have added 6-7" to the box, and still had room for the amp. Oh well, .96 is a good box size as well.

As for the wiring, running the amp upside down, and having the wiring hidden in the channel isn't the worst thing. The heatsink for the amp is right on the front, not on the bottom, so it's not the worst thing, and having the wiring in the channel, keeps it hidden for a cleaner look. I think it'll work out okay.

If you need me to paypal you some money because of the port, I'm willing to send you a couple bucks, to make up for the big expense.

 

Holy sweet baby jesus. This 10 sounds 11'tee billion times better than the 8's. I don't know why I ever thought a sealed box would suit my ears.

MUCHHHHH better bass response and volume from this setup. I would even say....perfect....