Rhino Coating Parts

I recently had a poor experience with a local "powder-coater" who didn't know his business. I took two parts for beading and coating, the belly pan under the engine and the entire hitch assembly. He sandblasted them to smithereens, and I was lucky to see them at that point.

Calling a halt to his operation, I took my parts and left his premises forever. My local body shop looked at the parts and suggested Rhino Coating...the BEST idea I've ever heard!

Now, coated and ready for reinstallation are the two most beautiful assemblies on the underside of my Tacoma...except for the soon-to-be-mounted AERO 2525 catback. The AERO started a complete refurbishment of the undercarriage...new bolts and hardware for every corroded/rusted part.

My Nerf bars are...guess where...being Rhino-coated as I write, and hardware exchanged for SS socket-head, 8-1.25x25mm hardware to deter theft. "Rhino Man" even suggested doing the flares and hood scoop (on my Silverstreak Mica truck). However, I'm thinking that'd be less than acceptable for washing and waxing in the future.

I'd do the thresholds in the Access Cab doorways, except all the masking would make the job difficult and expensive. The stick-ons will do the job.

Think about it...for a lot of underneath parts, Rhino will protect and beautify, plus add that impervious layer of protection.

 

I would not us S/S hardware to re-attach the hitch assy. It is not strong enough. You should use grade 8 hardware for that.

 

Don't the thresholds just pop off? They do in the double cabs, not sure about the access cabs though.

 

Roger that! I plan to reuse all original bolts for the trailer hitch reattachment. I did have to get a tap and die and run everything through that process...almost like Loctite had been used.

On Rhino-coating the door thresholds, the masking would be the interior of the truck from any overspray. Yes, the plastic thresholds do pop off, and I'll remove them to install the Toyota stick-ons, then replace the thresholds.