Anyone into R/C?

Nice! haha

Sarah said she would be into it but this pregnancy is kicking her ass so shes been staying in bed, i tried her on a micro quad copter but she destroyed that, she likes the lil trail trekker but wants more speed so after shes back to normal ill get her outside and start her with my 2wd stampede or rustler.

 

"wants more speed"....keeper for sure

 

Material choice question.

only part of the buggy that broke today was the rear shock tower. actually broke two of them. not because of flipping and landing on the tower, but from just hard landings. after looking at the break, which was identical both times, it's an obvious weak point. so the questions is, upgrade to aluminum, or upgrade to carbon fiber?

 

This^^

I'm no expert but I don't see why it wouldn't? Especially considering you're using all the other stock axial parts. You're basically just transferring your brains and drivetrain to another chassis.

 

If i am not mistaken, the Axial ESC is programable via a Castle link. The problem is it will probaly cook if you run to much power to it. I dont think its rated for more than 2s Lipo. 20t gonna be pretty slow also.

 

A brushless one

 

What axial esc do you have exactly? My ae2 is rated up to 3s but still helps to have a bec on 3s. Iv never heard of a axial esc that handles 4-6s

 

if you are using the brxl, you cant run a brushless motor.

 

You need a new esc to go brushless, I don't think the axial esc can.

 

No, it is cheaper to have a real 4x4

 

Upgrade: http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creati...86&sr=8-7&keywords=castle+creations+brushless

very powerful setup for $100. you'll make a 2wd buggy do backflips with this.

 

Never go with aluminum shock towers on 1/10 buggies they tend to bend and you dont want that lol. if they make a carbon fiber tower get that but look into the race material b4.2 parts. rtr parts and factory team parts are made of different materials.

 

Gracias! they make a carbon one. i didn't know companies made different plastic composite mixtures for race and rtr though. i'll look into it and see if it's the case for this one

 

yeah they even have soft and hard materials for more or less flex lol

 

Little more flex and a little less snap would be nice. if not, i'll just grab the carbon ones and hope they take a little longer to snap. i guess if it comes down to it, i can alway fiberglass up a stock tower for some extra durability.

 

After running on and off for 7 hours straight yesterday, I feel like the springs are decently broken in/settled. front is just about perfect, but it appears that the black 1.90 lb rear springs are a little soft. Valving a oil wt seem to be stop on.

got some rear end sag.



front is still sitting nice and level with the white springs.

 

Set ride height via the chassis and not the angle of arms or cvd's. Measure the front right before the kick up and the rear right in front of the arm mounts. Front should be at about 24mm and rear should be at about 23mm. If you haven't already pick up a ride height gage

 

I was basing my ride height being too low by the dogbones angling up, as opposed to being horizontal or angled down. the picture just offered a better visual. I don't have a ride height gauge yet, but I can measure the it with the vernire calipers for now. i'll pick up a gauge.

 

sweet. heres a vid to show how its done with the gauge, with some running vid to make it not so boring lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_5bc7zye3A

 

Cool video. one question i have, is why only set the ride height on the front and back? he was only adjusting the side to side based on his spring colar height. while i try to get weight balance from side to side, none of my vehicles are perfect. it would make more sense to me to take ride height adjustments on all 4 corners of the chasis, nto just front and back.

on another note, that's one hell of a track.