Billstein 5100 easy install method

I tried this method today with my new 5100s and OME 884s. I can't get the spring to compress enough to get the top of the shock to go back into the mounting plate. Even if I could, I still need 4 or 5 more inches to get the ball joint back to the steering knuckle. Whenever I try to jack it up, it just jacks the side of the truck. I have seen where people have done this successfully with 885s and even 886s so I would think the 884s shouldn't be a problem. Anybody have any ideas what I could be doing wrong?

 

I had this problem-but my shocks weren't decompressed. Once I decompressed them by hand there was more than enough room to get them up there.

As for the steering knuckle-I had the same problem but just kept jacking the truck up until eventually I could screw it back in.

 

Like he said, make sure the shaft of the shock is all the way extended and make sure the spring perch is not upside down.

 

I had the same problem, sometimes they just get a little stuck I guess. What I did was put a jack stand under the lower control arm then lowered the truck onto it and when it still didn't compress i sat on the drivers side door sill and my fat ass made the shock compress and was able to get all the screws to line up. hope that helps

 

To decompress, just pull the metal rod away from strut body right(i know, not all the way out)?

And wasn't there some one who put a jack in wheel well to push down UCA, what did that do again?

 

Subscribed....Thanks.

 

Does any one kno the thread pattern on the 5100s?

 

Hey guys, I'm fairly new at this working on trucks and what all these abbreviations and means what everything mean.
Anyway I installed at 3" front "1.5" rear spacers leaving kit and have been told to get new front and rear shocks? Struts? is this true? what would you recommend?


thanks.

 

You have so many options. What kind of budget do you have and what do you plan to do with your truck? i.e. offroad much or mostly on road?
And most people here do not recommend spacer/block lifts. One lift you could do is get bilstein 5100 adjustable struts for the front(these can be used with your stock coils(0",.85",1.75",2.5" lift settings) or you can set the struts at 0" and get lift coils such as Old Man Emu-OME- 884 coils(2" lift) or OME 885 coils(2.5" lift). For the REAR: bilstein 5100s(these are NOT adjustable/do not provide lift, but accomodate for it) and put an Add-a-leaf(aal) into your stock leaf pack to get 1.5" to 2.5" of lift depending on what you buy.

Thats just one option, I highly suggest you read all over this site before you buy a lift. LINK: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/

 

Mine came with top nuts for all shocks

 

I went with the Fox 3 inch in rear just basic Top Gun aal for now thinking sky jacker but can't throw the extra 400 atm...5100s up front 2.5 to correct the 1 inch down travel issue I'm putting an extension on the piston the thread is m12 1.25 they don't make the extensions for that size but jdm makes a shift knob extender that should put around 2 inchs extra down travel had octaco make me a full set of steel brake lines had them at my house next morning in NJ from cali terrific experience didn't really trust it at first. .. Have skid plate spacer drop transfer case and carrier bearing if needed... New rubber spring bushing and shock top bushings. .. And the sway bar relocation bracket. .. gonna use red loctite on extensions and the 1.25 hub centric spacers which the hub centric is very important for our trucks... keeping stock rims for the moment... running 265 75 16 Cooper atp lres which are 10 pounds heavier then non lres... Can any one think of anything I'm forgetting for this build. Setting 2.5... Also do your self a favor and throw out ur exhaust and get a 3 inch stainless AFE. Sounds so smooth bUT at the same time an animal... volant ram air up front.... Thanks guys

 

This method works for 1st Generation too. I did it. Removed the tie rod and upper control arm. then used the jack for positive pressure. Removed the 4 bottom bolts that join the lower ball joint to the spindle, removed the center bolt of the shock and and slowly dropped the bottom A frame.......You will likely have to loosen the alignment bolts as this video suggests...... then reverse the process for installation.

 

Anyone know what the 3 top hat nuts are for each side? Should I buy new top hats?

 

The strut rod is

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25

 

Don't quite understand your question about the 3 top hat nuts.

 

Sorry, like which nuts to buy to replace the original nuts? I could get them from dealer, but figure I could also just buy at hardware store?

 

Ya, just go to a hardware store and buy some Nyloc nuts. They always stay tight without a lock washer.

Lowes or HD should have m12 x 1.25 nyloc nuts.

 

Alright thanks. The people at the local hardware store see me very often hahaha

 

I do believe I fucked up on my reassembly. Is there a bushing that goes on the strut shaft before you reinstall the strut/spring back into the tophat? I am tight up top with the bushing but I have a clunk with up and down travel when driving.

 

Usually the bushing stays attached to the bottom of the top hat, and the strut dust cover rides below that bushing. The dust cover has a metal spacer on it as well to ride between the groove in the strut rod and the bushing