SMKYTXN's Build

I saw the light box project. Definitely looks like a handy tool to have. Where did you source the batteries?

 

i've actually had them for about 5 years. Got them in college, at a local electronics place, to power a robot i had to build. they're just high capacity, deep cycle computer backup batteries.

 

i'll bring the entire unit by on saturday if it's done.

 

Bring it even if it's not finished. We'll be working in that department anyway.

Oh, and this is much better.

 

ah yes, much more betterer.

i'll bring everything electrical

 

Sounds like a plan.

Taking that picture reminded me that I haven't put my front plate back on. Might want to do that considering that I'll get a ticket for my inspection as well as the plate.

 

I too like to live dangerously....

 

So why did you go with 4.10s instead of 4.56s ?

 

4.10's were a decent compromise since this is my daily driver.

 

AllPro IFS skid installed! It took a bit of head scratching to get all of the holes to line up. Starting at the back and working forward didn't work at all.

 

My take on Colin's ultimate recharging and light station.



Two switches for the lights and a cigarette lighter plug for both charging the internal batteries and charging external stuff.



There are three 12V SLA batteries tucked into the box, each with 7.5 amp hours.



The amp was only $18 from Amazon and supposedly provides 100w per channel. It does pretty well for an ammo can.



Positive bank on the right and ground on the left. You can see the bluetooth dongle as well. I had originally planned on adding an external 3.5mm stereo jack, but this way lets me keep everything inside.

 

X2

 

I replaced the upper control arm bushings over the past two evenings. SPC, the company that makes the Light Racing upper control arms released a new bushing a while back due to many failures with the old bushings. I originally installed the arms in early 2012.

As you can see the steel sleeve on this bushing has come completely free from the surrounding rubber. The funny thing is that the new bushings have a free floating sleeve.



The Trail-D-Vise has been a great addition to the truck toolbox.



I used a 3/8" drill bit to drill out the surrounding rubber. I did not use the sawzall to completely remove the rubber as there wasn't room for the blade. I used the drill and a pry bar to get the sleeves out.



I chose to cut through the sleeve in two locations and then pry out the center piece. This allowed me to make shallower cuts and not risk cutting into the arm itself.



Here are the original sleeves once they've been freed from the arm.



These are the bushings that SPC is shipping these days. You'll see that they're a new version of specride bushings. The older specride bushing had a squared off shoulder that could be torn off when you pressed the bushings in. The tapered section fits nicely into the arm and allows you to press the bushings in straight.



This is the vent hole that SPC mentions in their instructions. Before the new bushings came out this is the hole that would cut the lip of the rubber. I chose to take the dremel to the hole to smooth things up just in case.



Pressing the new bushing into the arm using the trail-d-vise.



New bushing installed with no damage to the collar.



Here's the passenger side arm back on the truck.





Oh, and apparently I've been leaving my mark on the apartments parking lot. At least I know the jack stands won't slide out on me.

 

Nice! how are the balljoints holding up? I think i need another new set for mine

 

No excessive play in them so I left them alone.

 

+1 on that write up! About how many miles did you put on the UCAs before you noticed a problem with the bushings?

 

I'm guestimating that I've had the UCA's on the truck for 35,000 miles. I've been having tire wear issues for the past 8,000 miles so I started looking for worn components. There has also been some clunking under hard slow turns with direction changes. The bushings were shot so they may be the culprit behind those two issues. Only time will tell.

The old style bushing was inferior, so if you have them I'd suggest swapping them out. The driver side control arm was really bound up and would only move a total of 5" up and down when it was free of the spindle. It's supposed to drop down to the coil when you take the arm off of the spindle. Mine just sat there sticking straight out.

 

I think I've found the solution for replacement lights in the old style ARB bumper. This is a Feniex Titan-X 05. I opted for the 35 degree flood pattern. They're supposed to put out 960 lumens. Stay tuned for install pics.

 

interesting...... you don't typically see difused lenses on LED bars. usually they just ripple the reflector. interested to see what the beam /spread looks like on these

 

Finally someone has figured it out. Can't wait to this one installed.