Aux. Transmission Cooler Diagram *PIC*

2001 Prerunner double cab; 2.7 cyl; automatic; 146k miles. Current radiator is fairly new with just less than 10k miles.

I'm going to be installing a Tru-Cool 4454 transmission cooler soon. Since I haven't received it yet I'm trying to get a good understanding of how I'm going to install it. I'm still deciding if I should bypass the stock cooler or install it after the stock cooler. Below is a diagram (non-scale) that I made to give me an idea of how the hoses are ran.

Please take a look and make sure my drawings are accurate.

Thanks.

 

what the picture says??

 

As in it's not legible or you don't understand what it means?

 

cant read what it says.

 

Looks like three options:

1 and 2 keep the stock trans cooler located in the radiator.

Option 1 is route coolant to stock radiator heat exchanger first followed by the aux cooler.

Option 2 is route opposite of Option 1

Option 3 looks like he wants to eliminate the stock cooler and just use the aux cooler.


My advice: Option 1 or 2 depending on which is easier. Im pretty sure there will be a very small difference between the two.

Option 3 if you are worried about the pink milk shake. If your shit is rusted bad then probably a good idea. If you change your coolant regularly, you should be ok from internal corrosion.

Ive been on the wall with the option 3 decision and at one point was seriously considering. However, after watching how fast your fluid temp can rise, even with an aux cooler, I think Ill keep the stock exchanger (see link below). Also, keep in mind the engine coolant warms up faster than the trans fluid and on a cold day will help warm the trans fluid to operating temps quicker.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...r-how-fast-your-auto-tranny-can-overheat.html

 

St. Andrew- glad you understood my crappy diagram. I just want to make sure I understand the plumbing and how the hoses will be connected.

I'll probably go with option 2. Trans-stock cooler-aux cooler-trans. My radiator has less than 10k miles. I'll just need to make sure I keep the coolant fresh and flush it annually.

 

I installed a Tr-Cool 4590 with the radiator by-passed. I wanted to avoid the dreaded "milkshake" at all cost.

 

How does my diagram compare to how you bypassed the radiator.

 

Damn, the 4590 is a big cooler!

The pink milkshake tends to be a 4runner problem and even then, very rare. I think the culprit is internal galvanic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals between the radiator (Alu?) and trans coolant heat exchanger (would have to be Cu ). Makes me wonder if the Tacoma radiator and trans cooler are both Alu....

 

I can't really tell by your diagram but I basically purchased some 3/8" transmission hose and ran the hose so that warm trans fluid entered thru the bottom and returned thru the top. If you search around most recommend to mount the cooler side ways. I'd look at getting

$20 Raybestos Powertrain Inline Magnetic Automatic Transmission / Power Steering Filter 3/8

this while your doing the cooler install.

 

Chris, you're exactly right. T4R's seem to be more likely for this to happen. I drained my fluid (to ensure it was good) when I first purchased it and installed a new radiator. I used some extra 3/8" to connect each side of the lower stock radiator cooler together and left it empty. As far as temps go... according to my Scangauge my temps have never gone above 160 and that's slow off-roading for hours on end.

 

Diagram is fixed on first post and here.

 

Reference for anyone that may need it.

Here are my installation pictures. BTW, my return line is on the passenger side. To confirm, I removed the passenger side hose from the radiator and ATF came flying out of the radiator. After cleaning up my mess I removed the driver side hose and ATF came out of the hose. I know most Tacomas are on the driver side but my 2001, 2.7, 4 cyl. always tends to always be different.

Also, I went and bought 8' of ATF 3/8" hose, NOT fuel line that they'll try to sell you. Most mechanics use fuel line and I'm sure it will work but my paranoia took over so I bought ATF hose. I ended up using about 7 feet. The return hose connected to the aux cooler was leaking so I had to tighten the clamp even tighter than I already did, so make sure you get all your clamps nice and tight. The oem squeeze clamps don't work very well because the 3/8" hose is bigger than the oem hose. They don't get very tight.

Sender hose on top, return on bottom.


Mounting brackets.




Only one mount on the passenger side but it's still solid since it's mounted near the middle of the cooler. I had to use a long piece of aluminum strip since the brackets that came with the cooler wouldn't reach.




From the inside coming through the hole.


Plenty of room for air to get around in there.


From the outside.

 

Looks good!

Probably a better way of finding the feed and return lines without spraying trans fluid everywhere . Did you check your fluid level to make sure you dont have to add more? The extra tubes and the exchanger will need a bit more fluid but Im not sure if its enough to notice the diff.

 

I spilled about half quart which I added back in. The cooler is so small I doubt it would take a half quart on its own.

 

Wouldn't a better way to run the lines be to do what the 4runmer guy did, feed through the bottom and return through the top? That way it stayed in the cooler longer? Or would that actually add to resistance and make temps rise a little?

 

Thats a true cool designed by the Long company . They use low pressure drop technology and are the best coolers you can purchase .
They come with valving . The cooler allows the transmission a warm up cycle . Transmission fluid circulates through the outer fins until the fluid reaches a certain temp , then valving in the cooler opens to allow full circulation through all the fins .
This feature alone makes these coolers a wise decision over the tube design with no pre warmer .
OP did a great job using the solid mounts ,considering the kit comes with those stupid plastic ties and he could have simply zip tied the cooler to the rad . I really wish they would remove those ties altogether from their kits because guys end up using them as it makes for a fast install but they end up punching holes through the radiator fins or over time ,the weight of the cooler filled with oil pulls on the rad fins and creates holes in your rad . Radiator shops hate it when they have to service your radiator and you have a trans cooler zipped to it . Now the rad shop has to make sure they check your transmission fluid ....chances are , they are not going to check it .
Take the time to mount the cooler solid and away from the rad just like the OP did in the pictures

 

What would be the best way to install it gear cruncher? From the first cooler to the aux cooler, then back, or just bypass the stock cooler and use the aux cooler?

 

from the transmission , into the factory rad , out to the aux cooler and then back to the transmission .

I use to run the hosing this way but I live way up north where its 50 below every day and we needed the additional warm up time using the rad . I have installed thousands of coolers this way and never had an issue .

When a transmission was completely toast , we would bypass the rad cooler completely