Seriously... Proper break in advice for brand new fi audio SSD 10

I'm looking for some serious answers here guys I've seen some research on how important it is to break a sub in properly... Now I'm looking for advise... Never broken a sub in before because this is the first serious sub I've purchased.... Kickers mtx jl audio alpines all come with loosey goose spiders this thing..... It's like pushing on my wall lol any ways here's the specs:

SSD Series: 10”, 12”, 15”, and 18”
Dual 1 and Dual 2 Ohm
Cast basket
Wrap around gasket
Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone
Single layer wide foam surround
Push terminals
Extra heavy lead wire
FEA optimized motor
3” diameter 4 layer coil
Single high grade magnet
Triple progressive spiders
Optional Heli-cool system
SSD10

SSD10

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 31.0 Hz | 0 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 7.07 | 7.07
Qes: .35 | .35
Qts: .33 | .33
Mms: 223g | 223g
Cms: 0.12mm/N | 0.12mm/N
Sd: 310cm^2 | 310cm^2
Vas: 15.9 l | 15.9 l
Spl: 83.2dB 1W/1m | 83.2dB 1W/1m
Bl: 13.1 N/A | 18.7 N/A
Xmax: 20mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: H-Qts .2-.4 cuft
Ported box: .6-1.2 cuft @ 33Hz
Sub OD: 11.000”
Cut ID: 9.250”
Mounting depth: 6.000”
Displacement: 0.12cuft

If your comment involves anything that states not breaking the sub in at all I suggest you find a nice brick wall and bash your skull into it until you forget how to breath.... Lol seriously no one wants to hear how you wreck a sub!!!

 

As a home audio speaker builder I can tell you that the parameters of a speaker driver do change after a fair amount of burn in time. Really, the only thing that changes is the soft parts like the suspension/spider. Typically, this results in a lower FS (resonant frequency) as things loosen up. The voice coil really won't (or shouldn't) change at all throughout the life of the speaker.

That being said, there's not much going on during break in that's really required. However, I still believe it to be a good process for another reason. The biggest reason is that people are not yet familiar with their new subwoofer and don't really know where it's limits are. It's best to start out at lower levels and gradually warm up to higher SPL volumes. This way you know what the subwoofer SHOULD sound like when it's NOT being pushed past its limits or getting clipped power from the amp. Spend some time getting to know the sound quality of the speaker (maybe a couple hours) and then crank it up.

 

Clipping shouldn't happen

$198 smd dd1 SMD distortion detector DD-1

smd dd1....

 

Come on guys I know there's more bass heads in here

 

Good to know you're setting the amp correctly. Not entirely sure how that specific unit works but it appears to be a dumbed down oscilloscope.

Not sure what else you're looking for since I already answered your question. Just play some normal music at lower volume for a few hours if you're paranoid. Other than that nothing else is needed.

I've done comparisons of new drivers TS Parameters vs broken in/used drivers TS parameters and the only real difference is lower FS.

 

dd audio says play them for about a month and they will start to loosen up, they also swear they will get noticeably lower and a little louder once the suspension has loosened. I know you don't have dd audio but its the same concept

 

I am also curious what you plan on doing for a box

 

This is due to FS getting slightly lower due to use.

 

agreed

 

I know dd audio subs and this sub is right there when it comes to stiffness I'd say the fi feel is comparable

 

For now I'm gonna put it in a probox 110spb .... 1.5 cu... After displacement 1.38.... But that's temporary I want a box built custom for it and my truck... And I'm thinking mr marv... Or Dave the box guy... Any other suggestions as for who makes boxes out of quality materials

 

I talked to a dd dealer in williston nd and he was telling me due to the specs the sub should be in a box 1.6-1.8 cu and he was saying for the 40hz range... But I want a box tuned to 33 and I am no carpenter

 

As for breaking in the sub, I would set the gains to about half to 2/3 what you want them at as a final setting, and run the sub in for a couple weeks. As for the box, well, Mr.Marv is probably the guy to deal with, from what I hear, he makes great products. Or as you mentioned, give Dave a shot, and see what you can get. As for tuning the box, that's a matter of finding out how long the port needs to be to get proper tuning. I would think that going from 40 to 33 wouldn't make the port that much longer, and should still easily fit the box size necessary for that sub. Great product by the way.

 

I'm in the middle of building a box myself using the dd box chart, and also going for the mid 30's range in a 2.25 net box volume with a 38 square inch vent by 24 long. I will be running a Massive Hippo 12.2 my plan for break in is to run it at around 500w for a month or so

 

Which product.... Fi car audio? Or ?

 

The Fi sub. Great choice in gear. And from what I've read on the forums, Mr. Marv makes great stuff as well. Can't really go wrong with either.

 

I've already spoke with him seems like the only limitations are I'm in Minnesota he's in California i believe so it's gonna prove to be a difficult situation for building a custom fit box for my truck if he can't actually get the measurements himself

 

Well, I'm no carpenter either, but I put together my own box for 2 12" subs in my truck. I listened to a few people, relied on my past experience with a table saw, and a dremel, and got decent results that I'm proud of. You could always give it a go yourself.

 

I got mine fully built flat wound, standard qts option, carbon fiber cone, internal leads

 

I got the dual 2 ohm sub so my amp puts out 800+ rms at 2 ohm and 1200+ at 1 ohm which is ultimately what I want to run it at but could I wire it at 4 ohms for break in purposes and the re wire to 1 ohm when I feel it's broken in?