First time audio install help

so i just purchased my speakers and amp for my truck but i dont know where to go from here. I have never installed any car audio speakers on any car so this will be my first attempt ever. I figure if i cant do it right i will just have to pay a local car audio shop to do it for me. but anyways what do you guys suggest i get for the rest of my install? im pretty sure i will need some kind of mounts and or adapters for my truck if so where will i be able to find them? can you guys recommend a website or any local place where i can go and puck them up? FYI in Los Angeles. also where can i buy the wiring for my install? any help will be greatly appreciated.
heres what i have so far:
-JL zr650 component speakers for the front
-JL c5650 Coaxial speakers for the rear doors
-JL HD600/4 amp

 

Do you have a friend that can help? Swapping speakers out isn't too bad but for the amp you'll need to get an amp installation kit and run a power line from your battery, through the firewall and into the cab. It's not rocket science- I did my first one by myself, but I bought all that gear from Crutchfield and they have superb customer help resources. It can be confusing and potentially dangerous if you have no knowledge of car electricity- grounds, fuses, etc.

 

Go to Youtube and search for Taco Tunes. I watched all their cheesy videos to help me know where to run wires and such. Seeing it as they were putting in the amps and speakers made it really easy (especially seeing how they pop off the door panels - those are always tricky the first time).

You can see pics of my install in my signature:

 

x2^^^

Do your research on the amp install. I have done them a few times myself. It's not too difficult. You just need to have your head on your shoulders when you do it so you don't make an expensive mistake. Always remember to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before you do ANY car audio work. Do you have a good head unit yet? I have a full JL system in my Tacoma and I went with a Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS. Crutchfield usually has great sales on the units they are trying to dump to make room for the new ones and you get all of the wiring and installation materials free with your purchase. I ended up paying 500.00 for an 800.00 deck, not bad. IMO, the head unit can make or break a system. Make sure you get something with 4v preouts on it and that you use the proper size wire (AWG ONLY). It also needs to be 100% oxygen free copper. Rockford Fosgate is my brand, they make solid wiring kits. I purchased my kit from Sonic Electronix. Good pricing and fast delivery. Also, seek out Mr. Marv's advice if you can. He is a vendor here and also a car audio specialist. If you have questions, just ask. A lot of people here have knowledge of it.

On door mounts, Mr. Marv or a local shop should be able to make you some door mounts. I just put JL C2-250s in my doors. A guy next door to my work made some wooden mounts that screwed into the factory holes for me. They work perfectly.

Also, consider Raamat and Ensolite for sound deadening when you are done with the install.

 

Things to consider, how you hook it up drives what else you need to buy:

Amp connections
- power (battery and ground cables)
- turn on lead (from OEM and aftermarket HU, or key on lead)
Signal
- OEM HU (need speaker level leads to amp, or a signal processer to give you low-level (RCA cable))
- Aftermarket HU (low-level cabling, RCA, to amp)
Speakers
- speaker output (use stock wiring or run your own)

You've already mentioned the speaker mounting options, but also consider where to mount your amp.

 

To help you choose which gauge amp install kit to buy, use this chart:

Add the fuses on the side of the amp together, and get your total amperage draw, and make sure to buy a fuse that equals that, that you can put 12"-18" from the battery. Running the wire into the truck is easy, there's a huge grommet on the drivers' side, by the brake booster. Use something like a coat hanger, and tape the wire to the coathanger (straightened). Then slowly push it through the grommet, making sure not to nick any of the other wires. Then you need to decide where you're going to mount the amp. I have one under each front seat, and there's plenty of room under the drivers' seat for an HD600/4. As for speaker wire, I used a long ziptie, and taped the wire, you can use 14ga., to it. Then remove the wire boot from both the door and the body, and push the wire through. Try to make it so you route the wires under the sill plates, they have wire holders underneath, that will help you run all the new wire. I wouldn't use the factory wiring, there's a crossover somewhere in there, for the front 6x9 and tweeter, so running your own is the best way. You can mount your crossover somewhere in the door, I have mine underneath where the armrest is, as there's plenty of space between the doorcard and the door frame at that point. And don't forget the RCA's and remote turn on from the deck. It WILL all fit, if you take your time, and make sure your safe. Disconnecting the battery is a good idea, I disconnect the positive, some disconnect the negative, I say it's up to you. GL, and post up if you have any more questions.

 

wow thanks alot for everyones imput! i didnt realize that it was going to be this complicated. is there maybe a nice kit i could buy for my install so im not buying wiring here and there, it would be nice to just order a kit from just one place that will help my install. some links would be much appreciated
Also i forgot to mention that i already have a HU installed and subwoofer in a sealed box with an amp but i didnt install any of that it was installed at a local shop but i figured try to do the install myself this time around.
my headunit is a JVC KW-AV70BT and my sub is a 12w3 but im hoping to upgrade to a better sub in the near future

 

What amp do you have for your sub? What gauge wire did they run to power it?

It says on the JL site, that there should be a 50Amp fuse for the amp, inline, before the amp, as it doesn't look like there's any fuses in the amp itself. So, a distribution block may be in order here. You say you have a sub amp already, so there's a power wire pulled into the cab to begin with. This is a good thing. Find the power wire, and see if you can add a distribution block to it, like this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12 Then you put the main power wire, I hope it's at least 1/0 gauge into one side, and split it, so that you get two power feeds coming out. One lead would go to your sub amp, check the fusing or manual for how much fuse you should get, and one fused connection goes to the HD600/4. On the page I linked, you can choose two fuses to come with the block, make sure one is 50Amp, that will power the HD600/4. You can also buy wiring by the foot on that website, and terminals for ground as well. Speaker wire is available, pretty much everything you need.

One last thing, is you'll need a larger fuse for the main power wire at the battery, to allow more current. Add the power draw of both subs together, to get the right size fuse. A little over isn't a big problem.

Here's a pic of the same fuse block that I have in my truck. I have 1/0 ga. wire run to it, and two 4ga. wire running out of it. I put mine underneath the console by popping out the cup holders, and popping off the shifter surround. I then run the wire underneath the seats for each amp, and have the ground run back up beside it, and ground to an existing bolt that I sanded the paint from for a solid ground. Works great.

 

I like Rockford Fosgate wiring kits (100% copper/oxygen free/AWG) and I use Sonic Electronix for my wiring needs. There are plenty of good brands out there. Just make sure it is 100% copper. You have high end equipment so you should not skimp on wiring. As far as recommending the exact kit needed, it would probably be best for you to call a local shop or Sonic and explain your set up. They will tell you exactly what you will need. JL is a good source also. I deal with Jose Rodriguez in their tech support. He can answer any question you have about wiring and/or your JL products.

www.sonicelectronix.com

Just like it was stated above, you are running more than one amp so you need a distribution block. Don't skimp on that either. Buy a good one.

To be quite honest, other than putting all of the new equipment in, the wiring part should be pretty easy. You already have the "pain in the ass" part handled since the other amp is installed.

Make sure you know exactly which fuse to run in the cab and by the battery. That is very important and can mean the difference in something being fried or protected when/if something happens to go wrong, and things CAN go wrong.

 

Do not try to install your first stereo without someone guiding you or helping you. You have good equipment and it will be easy to fry. There are A LOT of factors that go into a proper stereo system.

Do this:

Go into your local section on TW and ask someone for help. You'll be surprised how many people will lend a hand for stereo work. If you are coming down the the Phoenix Az area anytime soon I'll be more than happy to help you out.

 

+1 on Rockford Fosgate install kits.

 

This is good advice. If you feel uncomfortable for any of this, put a post up in the GTG section of your area and someone, I'm sure, will jump in and help you out. If you were in Calgary, I'd be glad to jump on this, I love installing gear.

 

x2. I made my original suggestions based on the fact that he sounded confident in being able to do the install himself. I should have played it safe in answering and suggested the same thing.

OP: I had someone help me the first time I did an install and it was a fairly small/easy system. The second install was 5 amps, 4 subs, 2 sets of components, a DSP, H/U, and all of the wiring. I let someone else do the alternator, battery, and capacitor. It can be a fun learning experience if you pay attention to what you are doing, follow 12v rules, and have patience. Otherwise, spend the money to have it installed if you don't feel comfortable. It honestly isn't rocket science. Have a plan (literally) written out before you do it. I did this on my first install then ran the schematics by a local audio shop. They looked it over and told me that is exactly how they would do it. I went back home and put it all in without a hiccup. Guess I got lucky the first time? LOL.

 

Yes! I have never used anything but...