Trans cooler help

Well if my day wasn't busy enough I got my tracking number from IPT trans and my valve body will be here today. Long story short the vb got lost in shipping on the way to them so this is almost a 2 wk ordeal. I threw my cooler on but I'm curious on the hoses. Does it matter which on goes where? Heres some pictures. Thanks guys I tried searching a little but I'm so busy today I don't really have the time.

 

Are you going to keep th oem cooler and run both? If so, run the lines so the fluid pases the the oem cooler last (aux cooler first). If not, doesn't make a diff.

 

Yea I'm running the oem cooler to but how do I know which lines to hook up to the b&m cooler first then back into the oem. Like which like the tranny fluid will be coming from the tranny.

 

I was thinking the one on the right but not sure, trying to find my book now.

 

Found my book but still not having luck on the incoming and return lines

 

The rear line on the tranny is the fluid return line and the front line is the line that leads to the radiator. Both are located on the right side of the tranny.

I'm getting ready to do this as well and I'm going to install the aux cooler after the radiator. I think that the fluid will be cooler this way as it returns to the tranny.

The lines are 10mm (3/8"), not sure what the barbs are on your aux cooler (11/32"?), but either 3/8" or 5/16" hose should work. Just make sure it's tranny hose as that is reinforced.

However you want to hook it up is your preference.

 

The cooler I bought came with hose, I think I've got enough not sure yet but hoping to find out soon. Hopefully the UPS guy shows up soon so I can attempt to get my valve body in by myself, I miss my truck haha

 

Will the B&M cooler be enough for the tranny or should I run inline. Ive seen a few threads about the line in the tranny rotting out and causing coolant to reach the tranny.

 

IIRC, everybody that has installed one of these says that there isn't enough hose to complete the job. If you're short on time, I'd find a source ahead of time for some hose while you're waiting. It may save you some anxiety. Good luck.

 

Ive got a napa and advance auto within 5 minute drive do you think they will have some? Im finishing this job today so I don't have to much time. Been with out a vehicle for almost 2 wks.

 

Ive been searching and see a more threads than I wanted to about the radiator cooler going bad. Is this something I should be worried about. Is it worth spending the money and getting a new radiator?

 

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13...stalling-hayden-tranny-cooler-tomorrow-2.html

2nd page made me nervous about this. Ive got a cooler off of my jeep I could throw on to and bypass the radiator.

 

I just installed a Hayden and was iffy about which line was which. I finally routed it like this...

On the DRIVERS SIDE I unhooked the hose going from the radiator to the hard line on the trans. I ran a hose from the drivers side radiator to the top inlet on the Hayden cooler. Then hooked another piece of hose to the bottom outlet of the Hayden cooler and the other end to the hard line coming off the trans. This hard line is the one the runs furthest to the rear of the trans. This is the line carrying cooled ATF back in to the transmission.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

It's on a V6 if that matters

 

I am thinking the same as your setup, mine is a v6 as well.

 

The strawberry milkshake you speak of has been mentioned in a prior thread on this same subject! If you didn't add an aux tranny cooler, you'd have the same set of circumstances with coolant contaminating your tranny if there were a crack in the lower tank. no? In which case you'd be screwed cause you wouldn't know that it happened unless you had a catastrophic faliure.

If you suspect that the radiator will comtaminate the tranny and if it gives you peace of mind, by all means drop some $$ for a new radiator and plumb both inline with each other.

Have you looked in the upper tank of the radiator to see what kind of condition its in? If it's cruddy inside with deposits, take it out and have it checked/cleaned at a radiator shop, that way they can check the bottom tank for cracks. Probably cheaper in the long run than buying a new one. Pull the tranny dipstick and look for evidence or contamination there as well. If all looks well, install it and drive it like you stole it. If you get the milkshake, it won't be because you added the cooler.

Just so you know, cause I sense that you haven't read the prior threads, the author of the strawberry milkshake thread mentions that it is primarily a 4 Runner problem.

 

I have the tranny pan off now and all looks well I was just curious.

 

Just got off the phone with John at IPT and he told me to run the aux cooler after the oem and my return line is the rear line on the trans. Just got my valve body so I'm headed out to get dirty!

 

Sounds good! Get er done!

 

TRANSMISSION COOLERS TRANSMISSION COOLERS
If you do not have a transmission cooler on your truck and you plan to tow or haul heavy loads or you are in heavy stop and go traffic and use 4X4 low a lot , consider purchasing a cooler . The cooler thats built into your rad is designed to cool the transmission with the weight of just the truck by itself .When you are in 4x4 low , your torque converter is usually in the stall stage and creates a tonne of additional heat .
160 - 200 are considered normal temps providing your engine radiator is functioning properly . If your engine overheats , your transmission will also overheat
Normal fluid temperature in transmission to be 175 deg. F.

Rate of oxidation to double for each temperature increase of 20 deg F above normal (175 deg F). As oxidation rate doubles, useful life of fluid is cut in half.

At 175 deg F life is 100,000 miles
At 195 deg F (20 deg above 175) life is 50k miles
At 215 life is 25k miles
At 235 life is 12k
At 255 life is 6,250
At 275 life is 3,000
At 295 life is 1500
At 315 life is 750

At temperatures much above 300 deg F the metals in the transmission will tend to warp, twist etc. high temperatures causes the formation of varnish deposits which impair or pre vent transmission operation.

At a fluid temperature of 415 deg F fluid life is 30 minutes!

Source: Empire Lubricants Inc.
Consider a scan guage http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Comp.../dp/B000AAMY86

This is how Low Pressure Drop technology works::
When Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is cold it is viscous. The unique Tru-Cool design allows the colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through two open bypass channels positioned at the top of the cooler. As operating temperatures increase, the ATF becomes hotter and thinner, It's then directed through the core where it is cooled. Tru-Cool's highly efficient cooling technology combines improved protection against lube failure with optimal heat transfer.
http://www.amazon.com/Long-Tru-Cool-.../dp/B005XZXB1M
Long Tru-Cool Oil Coolers offer advanced cooling protection for many towing applications. The advanced technology out performs TUBE & FIN Designs, Delivers up to 15 times less flow restrictions, 30% more cooling delivers maximum heat transfer, Self-Regulating for maximum lube flow protection through start-up, varied temperatures and driving conditions, heavy loads and towing.
Here is Toyotas fluid flow guide ...Look at page 8 on this PDF http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf
And here is a guy who recently installed a cooler showing pictures http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...agram-pic.html

 

I went with a tru cool 4454, bypassed the factory cooler. The hottest reading was 180. Freeway readings are a little above 100. Passenger side of the radiator is the outlet, drivers side is the return.

If you bypass the outlet should be ran at the top of the cooler and outlet of the cooler on the bottom back to the transmission.