Did you keep Factory HU but upgrade the rest

I looked and hadn't seen a poll on this so I thought maybe it would be a good idea to have one.

Looking for feedback from those who have kept their factory head unit but upgraded other parts of the system. If you did, are you happy with what you did.

Also, in your reply can you give specifics on what you upgraded.

I was going to keep this to 2012+ model years since that is when the touchscreens started but hey, I'm open to hearing from anyone who has kept the factory HU.

 

Wondering the same myself. Looking forward to the results! I've heard that the factory HU does not have a flat output but I'm a novice.

 

I did it, and really like the sound. The only issue I ran in to was the hum from the factory deck. The LOC with amp really amplifies the hum. Honestly, it is not that loud, i cant really hear it while driving because of road noise and i always have music on. But when truck is off and radio is on low, you can hear it.

I used an LC7i.

I like that I still have bluetooth, touch screen, and steering wheel controls. However, you could get all that with better output quality by spend a few hundred more and get a nice alpine/pioneer touch screen deck....with nav.

 

I commend you for trying to research this by getting opinions from those who have done this type of thing already, but I'm afraid your poll is prone to being biased. Not many people like to admit that what they paid money for sucks. Most people research their options, find a cheap one that they hear good things about from people who have already spent their money on garbage, and sincerely believe that it sounds good. I've been guilty of this exact thing before. When I first had a stereo in my truck I kept the factory head unit, replaced the speakers and added an amp. Not knowing any better, I bought the most expensive stuff that Best Buy carried. When I first got it installed I thought it was the cats ass, but really, it sounded like shit. Just by adding a head unit the speakers whole stereo sounded so much clearer and louder.

There are good ways to integrate factory source units aftermarket equipment, like the LC7i that Aaron used, but pieces like that are fairly pricey and you will not get the same quality that you would with an aftermarket source unit.

 

Definitely what he said. I only used the LC7i and stock HU because i was on a budget and got a great deal on it on ebay. I already had the amp from previous vehicles. I will most likely add an aftermarket HU with touchscreen and Nav. That will probably be next year, my 9mo old is eating up my time and cash right now...literally. lol

 

I originally did that... but now I am swapping in a new head unit too. Just couldn't get the sound I wanted.

 

Like what I have NOW! Started with the speaker upgrade in the doors http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/317073-2014-access-cab-sub-options.html but still needed more "uummpphh".

Did some research and decided not to go the powered sub route and just installed an amp, mini amp that is. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/328388-2014-access-cab-door-speakers.html The Clarion XC1410 is just perfect for the total outcome of the sound now.

I have no issues with the stock HU and features. I use my Garmin for maps (free lifetime) and don't need the Bluetooth features for the phone "music" apps.

 

Upgraded everything but the HU. RCA outputs which allow you to tune the OEM HU much better than stock. I had it professionally installed so I don't know much about the technical details but it sounds really great with more power and volume than my ears can handle.

JL Audio CP208LG-W3V3 microsubs (fit nicely behind passenger seat)
JL Audio XD1000/5v2 five channel amp
Hertz HSK 165 XL 6.5" two-way Component Spkrs (front doors)
Sound deadening in front doors and behind sub in the rear

 

Sub'd

Like the stock HU and the look and don't want to remove it. Been looking for the best option for better/louder sound.

 

I had mine done professionally as well so some specifics are unknown. But i did upgrade all the speakers except the two super shitty ones in the ceiling with memphis audio and added two in the back, one in each door. Also added a 10" sub between the seats in the back, all powered by a 750 watt amp. Completely blown away by the outcome. Wouldn't have done it any other way.

 

I upgraded all the speakers, including the sub, and added an amp to my stock 2012 JBL Entune HU. I ran all new speaker wires, and added crossovers for the front. Here are some pictures. All Speakers are image dynamics, and I have an Exile Javelin class D amp which supplies 4 speakers with 100 amps a piece rms @ 4 ohms and 500 amps to a sub at 4 ohms rms or 800 amps at 2 ohms rms to the sub. With the JBL system its a little more complicated but still doable for adding an amp. We pulled all the signals off of the JBL stock amp and then at that point you can feed it into an audiocontrol LCQ-1 or something similar like ********* EZQ recurve. Something like that will allow you to convert those signals into amp outputs. It's much easier if you DO NOT have the JBL system, because then there are harneses that plug right into your stock headunit to grab those signals you need. It just becomes much easier at that point is all.















crossovers hidden next to the shifter

 

The only money I 'wasted' was getting an Audio Control LOC (LCQ-1, basically a LCi-6 with equalizer). Those components are noise generators and I replaced it- this is after multiple queries with Audio Control support and trying everything they had to try to tune out the HISS. The noise is coming from the head unit but the Audio Control amplifies it. At an audio shop we disconnected the LCQ-1 and inserted some Audison passive LOCs and it cut the noise by more than half so we knew the Audio Control unit was the problem. You could tune it down but at the expense of overall sound. Those Audio Control units is just not compatible with the Toyota stock head unit, I took my hit and sold it on Craigs List.

I kept the stock Entune Plus in my 2014 DC and wanted better sound and volume (listen with the windows down and actually hear it). I did not want to loose the storage so I went without a sub. Now my truck's system really sounds awesome, I get compliments from others and even the audio shop was impressed with how it turned out with the stock HU and only a Class D amp. This is what I used:

-Audison Bit Ten Processor (under driver seat)
-Polk PA D4000.4 4 channel, 800W Amp (under passenger seat)
-Polk MM 6501 components in the front
-Polk MM 651 coaxial in the back
-Speaker/tweeter adapters from Mr Marv on here
-Best Kits adapters to the stock wire harness
-Knukonceptz speaker wire, amp kit

I had a Polk connection and got the speakers and amp for less than half of retail so went with them. All in it was less than $1K with self install and I got the volume and sound I wanted. The Audison Bit Ten allows you to program out the noise coming from the stock HU and provides a clean signal to the amp.

If you haven't pulled them out, the stock speakers are cheap with tiny magnets. All 4 of them together weigh about the same as a single coax speaker I replaced them with.

 

Has anyone tried Taco Tunes ReCurve EZQ that is specifically designed so you can keep your factory HU?

http://shop.*********.com/ReCurve-EZQ-Add-amps-to-your-stock-Toyota-Stereo-Head-uni-TT-EZQ-V3-BT.htm

I am attempting to post a new thread with regard to this question.

 

That looks like a copy of an Audio Control LCQ-1 (which I had bad experience with). It also looks like they are just shipping their first units (not much field experience past their prototype).

Also do a search on here about *********. My experience from many angry and some satisfied posts on here along with some strained email communication querying them about their products (I had to got through Image Dynamics just to get them to respond but they never answered any of my questions) seems their customer service is 'optional' and his condescending email basically said as much.

Up to you, good luck with your decision. FWIW you can spend another ~$100 and get a proven Audison Bit Ten which is a true processor with PC tuning interface.

 

A digital sound processor is the way to go.I kept my stock head unit on my 2012 and I added a Rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 best money ever spent.sounds better then just adding and amp and speakers.it allows you to set crossovers and eq Yur system via computer.I'm currently running a t600-4 to my front components a pbr300x2 for my rear fill and a t1500 on two sundown. 8s .

 

Yeah, you did it the right way, then. Audio control makes good pieces, but you will run into that problem every once in a while and there's not much you can do about it. Audison bit processors are really the way to go. I used a bit one in my truck, and still replaced the factory head unit.

 

I have never upgraded an audio system and want to upgrade my factory radio (entune w/o JBL) with a amp/subwoofer. I do not want to "cut" or "splice" any factory wires to do so just plug and play. what wiring harness/adapter kits do i need to do so?

 

I just installed it. It works very well, no noise at all. I'm using a JL Audio xd500/3V2, Image Dynamics 64 speakers and a JL Audio Stealthbox.

CD's and audio from the ipod, (Apple lossless format) sounds really good. The Radio is worse than either of them, but it's radio.. I let the sub to XM lapse, but may reactivate it..

 

I just put high sensitivity level speakers (95-96db) in the front (jbl 6x9 gto) and back (6.5 infinity kappas) - it ain't perfect but it's pretty decent sound for around $200 total (made my own brackets, which look like shit but work). I would say it's 100% worth it over the stock speakers. Get some pretty decent bass rattle/ can crank it when the windows are down.

If you put anything less than 95db sensitivity speaker without an amp/ new HU, you're wasting time and money.

 

stock deck only running on front outputs. mid and high tone controls -1, bass at 0

Memphis 6x9 components and Dayton RS75 mids [400Hz up 6db/octave] in stock tweeter location. Memphis tweet in sail panel on door.

calibrated microphone at drivers head height, facing windshield. vehicle in garage, not running. volume at about "50"