On Board Water?

agh. ditching the bypass will certainly speed up the flow & increase efficiency etc... but I like to do stupid shit with my truck and have both caught air and made a couple bad judgement calls that resulted in slamming my upper control arms into the fender wells. try that one- it's really not easy. or fun..

point being, in a catastrophic failure where I'm 3 hours away from any real help or cell service, I don't want to bust a hose and try to re- do the coolant lines while they're spraying out 190 degree water.

but screw it I'll switch the check for a regular ball valve and call it a day. Tomorrow, the final version's gonna be done and I'll be able to tell what the performance of this heat exchange is!

 

Nice./ Congrats on completing it.

 

Good luck Spencer, look forward to the final configuration.

 

IITTSSS ALIVE!!!!!

I deleted the check valve in place of a regular ball valve and it now works PERFECTLY!
I hooked up just the hot side with a hose & the water came through so hot that the thermostatic valve shut itself off.
Tee'd in to flow hot and cold from test hose and PERFECT water temp came out of the shower head.

I'm so damn excited. Now just to mount the pump / hoses & clean up install

 

Excerrrrent!

 

Very good!

 

Nice work! Would love to tackle this.

 

Do it!

If you want a time frame on this,
Look at the thread I started before starting-

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334022

It mirrors this one for the most part, but look at the time stamps & you'll see how long it'll take you.
Cost is about 300$ in hardware alone. Less, if you're patient like skygear is.

 

Yeah. Patience paid off so far. Mail today.

 

Glad it worked out finally. OS we all need to make note on the install here. PRIME ALL THE HOSES AND REFILL COOLANT!

 

pump bracket


Mounted and plumbed



These two items are all I need to carry now!
RV shower head and a length of double female garden hose fittings- they stow easily in the cab and are just as easily replaced at a walmart if lost or broken.

The shower head screws onto the mixing valve up front and the double male goes into the pump



Throw it in a 5 gallon bucket & good to go!
Five gallons lasts just under 10 minutes- no pressure or temp drop. Kept the engine around 180 degrees as well.



Im proud of this one.

 

Absolutely.

My system took a little over the volume of an entire reservoir to finally start working- I'll estimate around a half gallon of coolant but likely more. This was using a 40 plate and 1/2" hose with bypasses too.

 

Solder those connections and put some type of wire looming over it too.

On the pump. You have both ends sealed? Meaning capped off or plumbed? Don't want foreign objects entering the system.

^that's where the other fittings and stuff come in mentioned in this thread

 

I went the lazy route this time & used my shrink wrap butt connectors with a big length of shrink wrap over those two so I'm not worried about water too much.

And the wire is 10 AWG & zip tied off to spots that will keep it from rubbing- not worried about that too much either.

As far as a cap, I do need one to keep dust out of the inlet port on that pump and I need to figure some kind of filtration (I'm thinking an inline fuel pump) because right now it's only safe to run clean hose water through or drinking water.

An oversized fuel pump should work fine IMO- I think I will put it inline to my female / female connection I carry

 

^

If anything I would always try to use a clean water source. You don't want to put bad water in the tank or possibly contaminate the clean water in the tank. Cleaning those things out is not fun.

You can buy some RV water filters that hook up on the inlet. They are used to filter water at rest stops and campgrounds.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Culligan-...tional-Vehicle-Drinking-Water-Filter/15552348

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Culligan-...-Water-with-Level-1-Basic-Filtration/15552276

 

Filtration is important for the heat exchanger, if it gets fouled and can't be cleaned, then it's an expensive paperweight. I'd be interested in filters like the culligan one linked above, but I must know GPM rating on it...

 

I definitely will be doing this. I've read over both threads. Lots of really good input. I will add any additional info that I'm able to come up, with if any. Again, great job! $300 is a minimal expense really for a bad ass mod.

 

The best part are those heat exchangers. It's what kept me from doing this in past since it was the most expensive component.

Almost dumb not to if you use water camping regularly.

 

What about pumps? Flojet looks good but some customer service complaints have been noted. The flojet doesn't pulsate as much as the shurflo from what I have read.

 

Anything wrong with plain old heater hose for plumbing the heat exchanger? It runs about $1 per foot and would get the job done it seems. I'm thinking I'll buy the pump and heat exchanger only and do the recirculate in external water enclosure for now.