Waterproof Fuse and Relay Boxes - RFRM (10 relay) & RTMR (5 Relay) no Blue Sea/ SPOD

Another option would be to have NO negative run in the weather pack connectors. and NO run for the switches. Just having the weather pack connection on the end of the 87 (out to accessory) and the 86 (Switch in/out/ trigger). This would allow YOU to run your own leads with the Weatherpacks

 

I need to get a full kit from my distributor. That will be on my morning list of additional things to stock. In the mean time. Here is a 'set' off Amazon

$10 Delphi Packard Weatherpack 3 Pin Terminal Kit 12 AWG

http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packar...8&qid=1405479557&sr=8-12&keywords=weatherpack

 

That will work for this?

http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=640236

 

Yep. You need the FEMALE connector. Looks like the Male connector is on the end of that. But with the link I sent, it has BOTH so you are good to go.

 

I'm making that harness myself. I have the light it goes to with the female end on it. Lol

 

Ah, makes sense now. Looks like a little inspiration goes a long way lately! Awesome

 

Yes sir! I have everything needed but that damn weatherpak connector. Lol

 

the shipping KILLS on those things. Part is cheaper than the ~$5 shipping.

 

Wonder if i can find one local?

 

If you check with Commercial sales part of the Automotive parts stores. They might have one.

Ebay - $4.15 free shipping/. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-3...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item565c3b606b&vxp=mtr

 

Bought and paid!

Thank you!

 

Awesome. Read his reviews. Looks like they are fast shipping. Hope for 3 days or less to you!

 

I, as I noted in your build, lack electrical know how for the most part. If I got the smaller panel, it would be good for 5 relayed accessories which as I understand each also use one of the fuses, and I would have 5 fuses left for non-relayed accessories correct?

And if my thinking is correct, the only accessories that would really need relays would be switched (lights for the most part).

If you could confirm my thoughts or correct me that would be great! I may be interested sometime in the future in one of these!

 

Yep you are correct. High amp draw things use relays. Like lights, compressors, pumps etc.

 

At a minimum, 5 used so the relays are fused leaving 5 free.

I like to include 1 constant power for the switches. So that world be 6 used 4 free.

However, the Constant power is not a must. You can get power anywhere in the cab.

Some people would prefer to have on with key power from the cab, versus having the switches powered all the time. It is all personal preference.

 

Depending on what you do want. I can include a loose power wire in the braided loom. That way all you have to do is to pull the wire out a little wherever you want to tap into power in the cab.


Since you would be going right past the fuse block. I could include a fuse tap to make things real simple.

Remove a stock fuse. Drop in new fuse into the fuse tap. Connect wire from fuse tap to the loose power wire in the harness. Plug in the fuse tap.

 

Whatever options were chosen, I can provide pictures, walk throughs, and live support online or phone to help


-no charge-

Round trip plane ticket, gets free install

 

I thought I was right. Just nice to know I'm not

I would rather just have keyed power. Prevents someone from bumping a switch and turning on something that could kill the battery.

This sounds like a winner of an idea! Actually now that I think about it, I have a fuse tap already installed for my interior LEDs. They only come on when I have the parking lights on.

 

Probably no need for the install offer. I think I can handle it when the time comes I have stuff that needs the power!