E-locker swap

Just started to swap an e-locker motor from my parts truck to my daily driver and got locking at the plug ins. There are two that are simple disconnect and then a wire that looks like there is no disconnection at the back end.

Thanks

 

There is a separate breather hose for the locker actuator. Could you be looking at that? It's small, around 3/16" and goes up into the frame with the harness.

 

2 wiring plugs and a vacuum-type hose.

 

So does this vacuum hose just pull right out of the frame then or should I leave it and just reconnect to the other one at transfer time?
Thanks guys!

 

It is a vent, just looks like a vac hose. It ends just inside the frame and has a little rubber rubber tip that is supposed to help water and contaminants from getting in. The other end will just pull off the actuator. Just use the hose that is in the best condition. That tip has been known to get lost, get all crumbly and or caked with mud. I sure would check it out while your in there.
Another thing, the prime reason the actuators fail is water and crud getting inside. The steel motor bell has a ridiculously thin o-ring and the dissimilar metals at that joint favor corrosion in the presence of water/salt. That corrosion can creep under the o-ring in no time. The other joint/seam in the housing of the actuator itself has no gasket or seal at all. It's a good practice to slather these joints with some RTV or other sealant.

 

Ya i second this. I had one actuator not work on my first tacoma and when i took it apart the motor side was literally packed with sand from the seal failing. I cleaned it all up and re-greased both sides and just resealed it with rtv. My new tacoma the actuator works but Im tempted to preemptively rebuild it so that no permanent damage is done by the failure of the seals. IMO this isn't an if they will fail but a when.