Suspension Upgrade - Feedback requested

After reading through numerous threads here I have started looking at getting a 3in lift on my 2003 Prerunner. I don't do much driving off road, but my suspension is due for a refresh and I figured I would upgrade in the process.

Vehicle and Usage
2003 Prerunner w/ 116k miles (u-bolts on rear springs to keep axle wrap under control)
Occasional dirt roads/trails, boat ramps.

Proposed Upgrade Package
Toytec OME Lift (OME-9504TAC-883-CS046RA/B-ASB)

Front coils: OME 883
Top plate spacers: NO (883 coils)
Rear lift: Rear CS046R springs 98-04 - $419.00
Front diff drop kit: Delete (For 2WD models
Front shock/coil assembly: Yes add $100 - $100.00
Add rear shock stone guards: NO
​

LR Upper control arms for 95.5-04 Tacoma and 96-02 4R
Toyota OEM Lower Ball Joints

Questions
1. With this lift will I need any of the e-brake or exhaust relocation kits and/or longer brake lines?
2. Am I missing parts that I should be adding at the same time?
3. Any suggestions as to a kit/parts that might work better in about the same price range ($1500-$1700)

Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Eric

 

You're going to need longer rear shocks for sure & possibly extended brakeline

 

1. longer brake lines, exhaust relocation or cut it off at the axle, and rear proportion ing valve thingy relocater(mounts on axle housing)
2. Yes, see above. Plus new u bolts. Possibly front leaf springs bolts if they are seized. Check before you make the order.
3. I think the OME kit is a very durable, quality lift.

I would not go with the 883's on a pre runner with no heavy bumper or winch. Get the 881's. my 882's still ride rough with a double cab, 4x4, ARB bumper and lights.


Good luck!

 

Thanks for your feedback.

If I am not mistaken the kit comes with new rear shocks, would they not be the right length?

Also, for the brake line, do you mean for the front?

Thanks again.

 

1. Yes to exhaust relocation and extended rear brake lines. Or you could just cut your exhaust off after the axle and forget about it. You might want to get an e-brake relocation thingamabobby. My cable rubs across the top of the leaf packs now.

2. I don't know what all comes in that kit but I would definitely get the OME greaseable shackles and all new shackle and rear leaf poly bushings.

3. I'm 4x4 and I went with a full OME kit (881s) and couldn't be any happier.

 

All very good to know, thank you.

I went with the 883's to eliminate the "top plate spacers" they recommend if you get the 881's as I have read about spacers and ride quality not going well together.

Are you saying the 881's w/ spacer will not be has rough as the 883's?

Thanks!

 

Alright, based on feedback here is my new (more expensive!) list:

Proposed Upgrade Package v2
Toyota OEM Lower Ball Joints
SS-99TACFBL Front brake lines
UB-85 U-Bolts with hardware (U Bolt Length: 8.5 Inch)
SS-20 Extended Rear Brake Line
OME GS12-SB89 OME Rear Greaseable Shackles (No Lift) 95.5-04 Tacoma
Add bushings: Yes - $34.99
FK21 OME exhaust bracket kit
BPV-K Brake Proportioning Valve/Brake cable extension Kit
LR25460 LR Upper control arms for 95.5-04 Tacoma and 96-02 4R
OME-9504TAC-TOP-CS046RA/B-ASB Old Man Emu Tacoma suspension

Front coils: OME 881
Top plate spacers: Add top plate spacers for 3" lift with 881s - $60.00
Rear lift: Rear CS046R springs 98-04 - $419.00
Front diff drop kit: Delete (For 2WD models
Front shock/coil assembly: Yes add $100 - $100.00
Add rear shock stone guards: NO
​

 

You don't need the front brake lines. They are a improvement/upgrade over the stock rubber lines but they are not necessary as part of the lift.

And for the record I bought them too but neither myself, BDN or Squeaky Penguin could get the $@!@<#! retaining clip off the brake line to actually swap the new ones in.

Good luck. And if you do it, post how you were successful

 

OP - Your list of parts looks pretty complete. You may want to also replace your Sway Bar Bushings, and especially the Steering Rack Bushings if those have never been done.

 

I got my brake line clips off with a flat head screw driver and small hammer. There position and shape make the clips hard to remove. The hammer went under the screwdriver shaft to provide more leverage. Not more as in force but height. It was a bitch; hardest part of front brake rebuild with new calipers and rotors and hoses.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtRrTig_2Gc

That got me started, let's you see the concept of getting them off. I remember rotating the clip clockwise in relation to me in order to better get at the lip; good luck!