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On Board Water?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by skygear, Apr 17, 2012.

  1. Jul 25, 2014 at 3:06 PM
    #201
    skygear

    skygear [OP]                    

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    Damnit. I'll post up the part number later for the higher range one. Might sell this one and grab the big dawg
     
  2. Aug 3, 2014 at 7:17 AM
    #202
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    This showed up over the weekend. Not sure how much fun it's going to be to adapt 1 inch FNTP to half inch hose barb. Time to visit the plumbing shop.

    a4u7yne3_020566e8b14b91119a1c3acad3c235c9a06d4155.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  3. Aug 4, 2014 at 9:35 PM
    #203
    Spencer

    Spencer Future President

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    Upland, Chino... all of 909.
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    2013 DCSB 4X4 6cyl Sex Machine
    Redline hood lift, Flyzeye cabin lights, tailgate lock, SPOD Power block, VIAR onboard air, Cobra CB radio, Firestick 4' Antenna, Hot Blonde CoPilot Mod, SIX 9" Hella 4000 HID conversion with external 55W ballasts, Six 6" LED bars, Napier Bed Tent, Mudflaps delete using rocks, Roof rack by Brute force, Rock sliders by Brute force, Bed LED lights, Underhood LED automatic lights, Constant 12V bed plug, Rugged race radio, ICON uniball UCA's, KING 2.5 700 rate coilovers, Deaver rear leaf springs, KING 2.5 resi rear shocks (Flat 0.15 stack on compression shims), Scangauge, Empty wallet Mod Bug disease, AllPro Apex front bumper, On board heat exchange shower & water pump (Heater Core intercept mod), On Board Air - Viair for now, ARB when it dies-, allpro Skids back to gas tank- Tepui RTT on the shittiest "Bed Rack" ever made.... AllPro U Bolt flip kit with timbren bumps NEXT UP- expo leafs & bed rack, hydraulic bumps in rear, Total Chaos stock LCA's w/ Bypass, Rear 12" shock hoop relocate
    I got my weird barbed to NPT fittings from a hydraulic hose shop. They usually have high pressure rated quality bits and pieces
    And if anyone's close to Ontario California go to the Mecca of all tinkering minds
    McFaddendales hardware store.
    Almost guaranteed they'll have everything you'll ever need and about 500$ worth of crap you'll convince yourself you need. It's like a harbor freight except professional grade stuff.
     
  4. Aug 5, 2014 at 11:01 AM
    #204
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    ^Thanks. I like stores like that. I'm selling the valve pictured above. I ordered the Honeywell AM100-1LF Lead Free Mixing Valve (70-145F) NTP version to replace it.
     
  5. Aug 5, 2014 at 12:39 PM
    #205
    Spencer

    Spencer Future President

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    Upland, Chino... all of 909.
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    2013 DCSB 4X4 6cyl Sex Machine
    Redline hood lift, Flyzeye cabin lights, tailgate lock, SPOD Power block, VIAR onboard air, Cobra CB radio, Firestick 4' Antenna, Hot Blonde CoPilot Mod, SIX 9" Hella 4000 HID conversion with external 55W ballasts, Six 6" LED bars, Napier Bed Tent, Mudflaps delete using rocks, Roof rack by Brute force, Rock sliders by Brute force, Bed LED lights, Underhood LED automatic lights, Constant 12V bed plug, Rugged race radio, ICON uniball UCA's, KING 2.5 700 rate coilovers, Deaver rear leaf springs, KING 2.5 resi rear shocks (Flat 0.15 stack on compression shims), Scangauge, Empty wallet Mod Bug disease, AllPro Apex front bumper, On board heat exchange shower & water pump (Heater Core intercept mod), On Board Air - Viair for now, ARB when it dies-, allpro Skids back to gas tank- Tepui RTT on the shittiest "Bed Rack" ever made.... AllPro U Bolt flip kit with timbren bumps NEXT UP- expo leafs & bed rack, hydraulic bumps in rear, Total Chaos stock LCA's w/ Bypass, Rear 12" shock hoop relocate
    Picky picky! What was wrong with it anyways?
     
  6. Aug 5, 2014 at 1:43 PM
    #206
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Long story short, I save no money buying mixing valve on sale with wrong fittings, and having to adapt it with adapters for the project. I did find 1" FNTP x 1/2" FNTP reducing coupler in stainless only, it's not cheap, and even worse than that is trying to adapt with brass; a lot more expensive.

    Everything in my project is 1/2" so it makes sense to just stick with that. :)
     
  7. Aug 5, 2014 at 7:48 PM
    #207
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    Great thread guys! So much useful info. Thanks to everyone for sharing.

    My question is why are you opting to build your own setup rather than buying the Helton kit?

    I haven't done enough research to find pros/cons of one system vs the other.



    Edit: also after talking to Bryce at cruiser outfitters, he said the Helton hot water system uses a ball valve to limit the amount of coolant going through the heat exchanger to adjust the temp.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  8. Aug 5, 2014 at 9:16 PM
    #208
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    If you build it yourself, it will cost less, have higher quality, and IMO, operate more efficiently. My issue with the Helton is a lack of technical details on flow rates and pressure drop. That's not a problem with the plate exchangers.

    Also, I've seen half a dozen installs of the Helton and none of them used a ball valve to control the flow of coolant the way you just described. Generally they use the heater mixing switch in the cab, or in vehicles like the Tacoma there is no control as the coolant circulates at all times. That's why you see the mixing valves in this thread it solves that problem.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
  9. Aug 5, 2014 at 9:30 PM
    #209
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    The ball valve is only on their hot water kit, not the shower kit. The heat exchanger on the hot water kit gets a lot hotter than the heat exchanger for the shower kit. (Amount of wraps of coil in the h.e. I believe?)
     
  10. Aug 8, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #210
    CascadesTacoma

    CascadesTacoma Well-Known Member

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    2014 DCSB TRD OR
    We hooked everything up tonight and tested the system. The water temperature went from 72F to 120F in about a minute. I have my system setup so:

    - Heater core outlet goes into the 10 plate exchanger
    - Pump from bed draws from tank and pushes (pumps like to push) through exchanger then back to same tank.
    - There is a 3-port diversion valve at the outlet of the pump so the water either goes to the exchanger or the shower/faucet head.
    - I have a $3 ebay thermostat hooked up so I can see the temp change.
    - As soon as the water reaches the desired temp I can either shut off the pump or switch the valve to the shower/faucet.

    I'll take a picture tomorrow and list the parts. The use of re-circulation is far cheaper than using a mixing valve and once I get an in-cab switch for the pump I can heat the water while driving and just monitor the temp gauge.
     
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    deanosaurus likes this.
  11. Aug 8, 2014 at 9:42 PM
    #211
    skygear

    skygear [OP]                    

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    I know mine will ultimately have electronic thermostat involved. Possibly a programmable shutoff
     
  12. Aug 8, 2014 at 11:19 PM
    #212
    Spencer

    Spencer Future President

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    Upland, Chino... all of 909.
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    Redline hood lift, Flyzeye cabin lights, tailgate lock, SPOD Power block, VIAR onboard air, Cobra CB radio, Firestick 4' Antenna, Hot Blonde CoPilot Mod, SIX 9" Hella 4000 HID conversion with external 55W ballasts, Six 6" LED bars, Napier Bed Tent, Mudflaps delete using rocks, Roof rack by Brute force, Rock sliders by Brute force, Bed LED lights, Underhood LED automatic lights, Constant 12V bed plug, Rugged race radio, ICON uniball UCA's, KING 2.5 700 rate coilovers, Deaver rear leaf springs, KING 2.5 resi rear shocks (Flat 0.15 stack on compression shims), Scangauge, Empty wallet Mod Bug disease, AllPro Apex front bumper, On board heat exchange shower & water pump (Heater Core intercept mod), On Board Air - Viair for now, ARB when it dies-, allpro Skids back to gas tank- Tepui RTT on the shittiest "Bed Rack" ever made.... AllPro U Bolt flip kit with timbren bumps NEXT UP- expo leafs & bed rack, hydraulic bumps in rear, Total Chaos stock LCA's w/ Bypass, Rear 12" shock hoop relocate
    Great idea! I like that.
    I would have gone something along this route if I had room for a tank.
    What tank are you using & where is it mounted?
     
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  13. Aug 10, 2014 at 9:31 AM
    #213
    CascadesTacoma

    CascadesTacoma Well-Known Member

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    2014 DCSB TRD OR
    Here is a list of most of the parts I used:
    SHURflo 12V 3.0 GPM RV Water Pump 4008-101-A65
    Stainless Steel Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger
    Apollo 70-600 Series Bronze Ball Valve, Two Piece, 3-Port Diverting, Lever, 3/4" NPT Female
    SHURflo 234-2936 Hex Swivel Straight 1/2 FNPT x 5/8 BARB
    SHURflo 234-3936 Wingnut Swivel Elbow 1/2 FNPT x 5/8 BARB
    Watts 5/8 in. x 3/4 in. Brass Barb x MIP Adapter

    There is also a 3/4" female to 3/4" female adapter for the exchanger and the various tubing and clamps. The water tanks I'm using are 20L tanks I got for next to nothing from work so I have three side by side in order to separate my various types of water (drinking, shower, extra).
     
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  14. Aug 10, 2014 at 9:35 AM
    #214
    tweeek

    tweeek Well-Known Member

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    Would love to see some pics of this setup!
     
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  15. Aug 10, 2014 at 11:26 AM
    #215
    skygear

    skygear [OP]                    

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    Where are your crawl shots? You know, under the truck install shots!
     
  16. Aug 10, 2014 at 2:42 PM
    #216
    CascadesTacoma

    CascadesTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I'll get some pictures in the next day or two. I had to pull it apart to install my Softop today. With the Softop I'll easily be able to mount the showerhead to a short piece of PVC. All in good time, work and life tend to get in the way of progress.
     
  17. Aug 11, 2014 at 2:17 PM
    #217
    Tacodriver08

    Tacodriver08 To have faith, is to trust yourself to the water

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    Hey Guys, just curious if anyone has a good shot of where they tied in the heat exchanger to the heater core outlet hose? I cant seem to figure out which hose is which. Thanks

    Edit: Found it in post 115 on page 6.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
  18. Aug 12, 2014 at 8:17 PM
    #218
    Spencer

    Spencer Future President

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    Upland, Chino... all of 909.
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    2013 DCSB 4X4 6cyl Sex Machine
    Redline hood lift, Flyzeye cabin lights, tailgate lock, SPOD Power block, VIAR onboard air, Cobra CB radio, Firestick 4' Antenna, Hot Blonde CoPilot Mod, SIX 9" Hella 4000 HID conversion with external 55W ballasts, Six 6" LED bars, Napier Bed Tent, Mudflaps delete using rocks, Roof rack by Brute force, Rock sliders by Brute force, Bed LED lights, Underhood LED automatic lights, Constant 12V bed plug, Rugged race radio, ICON uniball UCA's, KING 2.5 700 rate coilovers, Deaver rear leaf springs, KING 2.5 resi rear shocks (Flat 0.15 stack on compression shims), Scangauge, Empty wallet Mod Bug disease, AllPro Apex front bumper, On board heat exchange shower & water pump (Heater Core intercept mod), On Board Air - Viair for now, ARB when it dies-, allpro Skids back to gas tank- Tepui RTT on the shittiest "Bed Rack" ever made.... AllPro U Bolt flip kit with timbren bumps NEXT UP- expo leafs & bed rack, hydraulic bumps in rear, Total Chaos stock LCA's w/ Bypass, Rear 12" shock hoop relocate
    I'm going to be depending on this system this next week- going hunting up north for 10 days.
    Also decided to make creative use of my on board air components to save room and maybe up the flow rate a little.
    Pics to explain
    uploadfromtaptalk1407897106424.jpg

    The rv hose was shiny, but had a stupid 1/4" or less ID hose. It took up a bunch of room all coiled up under the seat And my on board air hose was just lying there in the bed with a 3/8" ID Or so...
    uploadfromtaptalk1407899599245.jpg

    Plus I got a shower hut thing from bass pro and the rv shower hose was too short yo get from the output in the bumper up to the shower hut. Thought I'd put a quick disconnect on the shower hose

    Then found it didn't like coiling up well after that.
    uploadfromtaptalk1407899699861.jpguploadfromtaptalk1407899707041.jpg

    So screw it I ditched the hose altogether and just put quick disconnects on the shower head and the output of the shower.
    Between this and the little ball valve on the intake of the water pump, it keeps the whole system primed too! And now only the showerhead gets stowed away.
    And all components are aluminum, brass, rubber and stainless so water won't bother it sitting in there.

    Hope I gave y'all some more ideas
     
  19. Aug 12, 2014 at 8:22 PM
    #219
    dmharvey79

    dmharvey79 Well-Known Member

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  20. Aug 12, 2014 at 9:26 PM
    #220
    Spencer

    Spencer Future President

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    Redline hood lift, Flyzeye cabin lights, tailgate lock, SPOD Power block, VIAR onboard air, Cobra CB radio, Firestick 4' Antenna, Hot Blonde CoPilot Mod, SIX 9" Hella 4000 HID conversion with external 55W ballasts, Six 6" LED bars, Napier Bed Tent, Mudflaps delete using rocks, Roof rack by Brute force, Rock sliders by Brute force, Bed LED lights, Underhood LED automatic lights, Constant 12V bed plug, Rugged race radio, ICON uniball UCA's, KING 2.5 700 rate coilovers, Deaver rear leaf springs, KING 2.5 resi rear shocks (Flat 0.15 stack on compression shims), Scangauge, Empty wallet Mod Bug disease, AllPro Apex front bumper, On board heat exchange shower & water pump (Heater Core intercept mod), On Board Air - Viair for now, ARB when it dies-, allpro Skids back to gas tank- Tepui RTT on the shittiest "Bed Rack" ever made.... AllPro U Bolt flip kit with timbren bumps NEXT UP- expo leafs & bed rack, hydraulic bumps in rear, Total Chaos stock LCA's w/ Bypass, Rear 12" shock hoop relocate
    gu3y7yha_922355d1775c58c5134f2a8085e978131d382187.jpg

    We go through all this effort and here you come along with that.... Get outta here with your common sense we're engineering Rube Goldberg perfection.
     

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