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Boss coil overs

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by guitar2323, Aug 29, 2014.

  1. Aug 29, 2014 at 3:18 PM
    #1
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Fed ex just dropped off some Boss coil overs.I have searched the site and read about the install of the coil overs.Toytec says to use the method of removing the 2 bolts that hold the lower ball joint assembly to the LCA.A lot of the threads on here say to use the method of removing the ball joint from the UCA.The Toytec method looks easier.Is there a reason why most of you do the other way?Any insight would be great.

    IMG_0591.jpg
     
  2. Aug 29, 2014 at 4:33 PM
    #2
    Bender581

    Bender581 Well-Known Member

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    I was replacing my UCAs, so the ball joint had to be separated anyway. It was easy. A lot of guys do it the other way too. I used a puller to separate them. Using a hammer didn't sound like a good idea.
     
  3. Aug 30, 2014 at 5:10 PM
    #3
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Only one response. I thought everybody knew everything here.
     
  4. Aug 30, 2014 at 5:19 PM
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    2011supercoma

    2011supercoma Well-Known Member

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  5. Aug 30, 2014 at 5:37 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    OP, you are going to have to remove the two bolts which hold the LCA to Ball joint connection in place. You will also have to loosen up the bolts for the camber/caster on the other side of the LCA. Mark the bolts that way when it's time to go back and tighten you will see if caster/camber moved at all and you could adjust it back to the line. Get an alignment when done if lifting, and if that's not immediately available, try not to drive too long of a distance at the expense of your tires.

    By loosening those bolts, you are allowing the LCA to pivot downward to give you the necessary space you will need to move the coilovers out of the way.

    It's a pretty straight forward removal, install technique, let me know if you have any other questions.
     
  6. Aug 30, 2014 at 6:26 PM
    #6
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I understand the procedure. But a couple of guys seemed pretty adamant in not doing it this way.I was just concerned there was something I was looking over. Also do the cam bolts always need to be loosen when doing it this way?
     
  7. Aug 31, 2014 at 6:34 AM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    Yes they do. And I don't know what the hell they are crying over. They are adamant about not doing it that way because they are too lazy to line up the bolts back up to the mounting point when it's all said and done. That's what is really the issue at hand here. All you have to do is slightly jack up and wiggle the bracket until you line it up good and are able to thread in the bolts.
     
  8. Aug 31, 2014 at 3:20 PM
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    TacoDeLaPlaya

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    Both ways work. I think if you are using floor jacks removing the spindle from the uca gives a lot more room to work. If i was using a lift then the lca method would be best.
     
  9. Sep 1, 2014 at 4:06 AM
    #9
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was just getting another look under my truck before I do the install. The lower control arms don't pivot enough without loosening the cam bolts?You guys have done it before, it just looks like it will. Do the bolts that are holding the lower ball joint to the spindle need loctite?If so,red or blue?The method of taking it apart at the upper ball joint looks easier, I have a ball joint separator(pickle fork) but sometimes they mess up the boot.
     
  10. Sep 1, 2014 at 5:43 AM
    #10
    Bender581

    Bender581 Well-Known Member

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    The pickle fork might cause some damage. You can get a puller. Like this http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5696-G...8&qid=1409574768&sr=8-2&keywords=pully+puller. Watch out. The spindle will flop in any direction after you raise the UCA up and out of the way. I used a bungy cord to hold it in place. I had never done anything like this before. Remember, you probably can't screw anything up beyond repair. Red loctite requires heat if you need to remove the bolts.
     
  11. Sep 1, 2014 at 5:49 AM
    #11
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    When I put my icons in, all I did was take out the old coil over and slide the new one in. No reason to loosen all kinds of other shit.
     
  12. Sep 1, 2014 at 6:26 AM
    #12
    williams63

    williams63 Well-Known Member

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    I had a friend install my boss coil overs and he removed the bottom bolts on the spindle and the sway bar to get room to pull the coil out and put the new one in. I don't believe he loosened the cam bolts. he had a jack under the lca that he lowered when he removed the spindle bolts. took about half hour per side.
     
  13. Sep 1, 2014 at 6:41 AM
    #13
    williams63

    williams63 Well-Known Member

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    also- when it was all done and back down off jack stands it was almost 4" higher. drove it around for a few days to settle before an alignment. its now just over 2.5". I have LR uca I was going to put on but ben reading a lot of bad things about them. might sell them and buy some better ones just not sure which ones yet.
     
  14. Sep 1, 2014 at 7:43 AM
    #14
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have seen a few posts about doing it this way.I am going to try it.If there isnt enough room then I am going to try plan B.The least amount of things that need to be loosened,the better.I plan on doing it Wed. morning.
     
  15. Sep 1, 2014 at 12:37 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    NOTHING needs Locktite. Not the cam bolts, or the Ball joint bolts. The only thing I would maybe use for the 5100's is maybe some nylock nuts, but even that might be overkill.

    Just get everything nice and tight.

    I don't know how you managed to do that without loosening some other stuff. I thought about doing that and my coilovers had some extra droop. With 650# springs on them and over 250PSI pressure in them I was definitely not even going to TRY and shove them in.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2014
  16. Sep 1, 2014 at 1:21 PM
    #16
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    When you took the stock ones out,did you compare the length of the old ones to the new ones?
     
  17. Sep 1, 2014 at 3:23 PM
    #17
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    I average 700# springs on mine. If you need a little more room to play with use a pry bar and push it down wile inserting the new coilovers. I've changed mine multiple times this way with NO problems.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2014 at 3:26 PM
    #18
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    This was my OME 886 with top plate spacer vs the Extended Travel Icons with 700# coils

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is how I did mine. Took me 15 minutes per side as I only loosened 4 bolts on each side.
     
  19. Sep 2, 2014 at 11:33 AM
    #19
    12TRDTacoma

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    No, I didn't need to. I knew I was running maximum spec. Of factory travel (which is 6") so the coilover in it's entirety is considered an "extended travel."

    I cnt see that being good for the cam bolts. I still wouldn't do that due to potential damage you could cause to the alignment and it's retaining hardware. That's that I am a full supporter of working smarter not harder. I like to play it safe when it comes to suspension though.

    I do mine the exact same way the only difference being I loosen the LCA's and remove the bracket for the ball joints.
     
  20. Sep 2, 2014 at 4:51 PM
    #20
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I installed the passenger side,it was a bitch.I tried to do it without taking anything apart,there just wasn't enough room to slide the strut out.So I did the upper ball joint method,and it still fought me.The thing that was in my way the most was the tie rod.Using a pitman arm puller to get the upper ball joint off was the cats ass.It popped off in 2 seconds,no damage to the boot or the joint.I am going to do the other side in the morning.How much do these settle?Should I drive around a little before I get an alignment?
     

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