AIRBAG LIGHT ON

Hello to everyone, new to the board. I installed aftermarket power windows and locks kit, my srs light has been on since. i am sure i must have taped into one of the srs wires, can this be cleared or will it just come on again?

 

That is a concern!

You have to be super careful around SRS wiring. Either you may cause an issue where the airbag will not deploy when needed or it could deploy just while you are driving down the road. Either is not ideal!

First thing I'd do is pull codes on it to see if it says what is faulty.

If you feel you've taped into an SRS wire, get that fixed right away. Disconnect the battery and follow the the advise given in the SRS pages linked below. Then retrace your wiring job and double check everything you were near or touched.

Here is the wiring manual for your truck:
Here is about the SRS system specifically, also tells you how to safely work with it.
Remove all wiring that may be connected to the SRS system and repair as needed. Be sure all plugs are tight and no wires are pinched or have screws or anything run through them. Above all be safe! You don't want to be buggering about with the SRS stuff and have issues.

Myself, I'd highly recommend adding your own fused box for add ons like this. That is what I like to do anyway. I run a separate fuse box and then run a new relay bank for things that need it off of that. That is how I did my power locks on the truck. Keeps the chance of issues with existing wiring from being a problem.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks Maybe I will take it somewhere to get looked at. Touota will probably rape me though.

 

Codes can be pulled at most any auto part store for free. Autozone, OReilly.

Just a matter of if it is safe to drive.

Wiring schematic is fairly easy to follow. Follow the safety steps and then look at your wiring you connected to. Compare it to the SRS wiring (colour of each wire is on the schematic). Just be safe and wire safe. I always work off of staying away from factory yellow wires as I equate those to airbag wires.

Shop wise it is up to what you feel most comfortable with. If the power windows and locks install was perhaps (please, in no way a knock on you, your skills or knowledge) a bit beyond what you feel comfortable with then taking it to a good, certified installer at an audio store would perhaps be adviseable. You want to ensure that everything is protected and wired in such a way to keep it safe and reliable.

Yes, probably will cost you a bit as it is not a purchased product install for the shop so straight labour rate to check it over and redo.

Airbag light, codes may give you a clue as to where a problem may be. If no codes or beyond what you feel comfortable with then you can have a shop check it out. Some, NOT ALL, shops, may be quick to jump on the "you've added aftermarket stuff, void this, void that, everything is blown, blah, blah, blah. Maybe talk to a few shops and see what feel you get from them. Often they can quote you a rate just to check it out.

I've not brought anything into the dealer to be checked that was aftermarket, but did have a 4Runner AC install (factory parts) that was not working as it should. As with other times I've called the dealer they charge a flat 1 hour rate to check things out. If you decide to have the work done they take the 1 hour rate to diagnose off of the total. At least that is how mine has done for me. A simple call will tell you that upfront.

Again, depends on what you feel comfortable with, but I'd check the codes and then double check/reinstall the wiring for the added windows and locks. All the while looking to make sure I'd not knocked a plug loose or something.

Cheers

 

I probably should not have done it myself but it has been months now and everything works. an auto place scanned it but no SRS codes came up just an o2 code which is another issue. I am thinking whatever SRS wire i taped into sensed a draw on the current from the window or locks opening which caused the light to come on. What do you think? You say yellow is usually the srs wiring?

 

did you take the drivers seat out of the truck? What exactly did you do when you installed this stuff. Tell us your steps and maybe we can determine what happened. right now my guess is the green wire???

 

NO i DID NOT TAKE THE DRIVERS SEAT OUT. i WIRED ACCORDING TO THE VAGUE DIAGRAM THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. i AM THINKING ONE MAIN WIRE MAYBE RESPONSIBLE BUT CANY REMEMBER WHAT COLOR THE SRS WIRE WAS. iF i DID MANAGE TO FIND THE RIGHT WIRE WOULD THE SRS HAVE TO BE RESET IN ORDER FOR IT TO GO OUT OR WOULD IT FIX ITSELF. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS BEING ON.

 

I'd get back to looking at the wiring. You've either moved/loosened/disconnected or tapped into a wire/harness that needs fixing. I'd say if you got it fixed then the light would probably go out on its own.

Issue is you need to work safe. I think I posted the specific wiring diagram for the SRS system, yep just looked and I did. Read the text that is with it and then follow the system diagram to see where wires go, colours etc. Yes, srs wires are often yellow, but if you look at the diagram it will show the actual colours of wires in the system to sensors, airbags etc. and you can see there are other colours there too. You just have to be careful to stay away from the system.

I'm assuming the kit you purchased was for just windows and locks by the sound of it correct? Who made the kit? eBay purchase or where? Ask as often larger authorized sellers have tech departments that can help you through where the lacking instructions fall short. Crutchfield is like this. Sent me an alarm system that was lacking to say the least. Between them and getting hold of Directed (manufacturer) I got it sorted though.

Did you run relays for the windows and locks? I did not do power windows, but did add power locks. Used two relays each side and separate from the vehicle harness power supply (fused).

 

The wiring diagram you sent seems kind of confusing becasue there are many colors, so I may have taped into more then one. It is a Spal kit windows and locks. Like I said everything has been working so maybe I only taped into only one. I cant find the wiring diagram I had so I cant remember what the main srs wire color was.

 

Okay, having a look now.
Here is a diagram from spal on the what looks like lock kit. Apart from a switched power all the other connections look to before the components or a straight fused battery and a ground.
http://www.spalusa.com/images_content/faqs-sdh-wiring_lg.jpg

For main power for accessories I like to run a fused power wire from the battery. Put the fuse w/in 6 inches of the connection. Run the wire in through a grommet into the truck and connect in an aftermarket fuse block. Then I can run fused power connections from there without having to tie into any factory harnesses. Won't be switched, but works for main power in wires.

I'd have a look at spalusa.com and search through for the kit/s you got. Should be able to get you exact info on it.

Hard to tell what you may have spliced into. Perhaps best to disconnect all your splices so the locks and windows are not connected at all anymore. Make sure existing factory harness wires are connected where they are supposed to be and protected/taped where needed. No bare wires! Then see where you are. Is the light off at this point? If it is then great!

Now you can do the install and wire it external to the factory harness. Just fuse everything, use grommets, zip tie out of the way of anything and make sure all connections are secure and protected.

 

Looked at the door lock kit they sell. Here is the manual on it.

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/37000148_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

Looks to me you just needed to wire a power and ground into the system. Rest seems to be a plug in right to the module and then to the components.

 

Here looks to be the window manual with diagrams.
http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/33000031_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

Looking at the wiring it looks like the only connections to the actual truck system should be a switched power wire and a constant hot power wire. Other than that you ground everything to a good clean ground and just run the wiring to the pieces.

So, just by my quick look it appears that you have a constant hot wire to sort out for locks and windows and a switch wire (ignition on hot wire) and then a good solid clean ground.

If you connected into the harness at all then I would assume it was just to get the ignition wire and maybe a constant hot? You ran ground wires straight to the chassis right?

 

Have you fixed this problem? I have the same issue on my 99... no codes, just the airbag light. I was told that the airbag works by the toyota shop, just annoying to have that light.

thanks!

 

UNFORTUNATELY, NO I HAVE NOT RESOLVED THE LIGHT BEING ON. A LOCAL GARAGE TOLD ME AS LONG AS THE LIGHT IS ON THE AIRBAG WILL NOT OPERATE. DON'T KNOW IF THAT IS FACT ON NOT.

 

Finally solved this (well for the past month anyway)...took out the lower dash under the radio to access the SRS/airbag computer. Just juggled the wires around to ensure a good connection. ... and light went out. My battery was disconnected while doing this btw