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AC Issues

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by legbuh, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. Sep 22, 2014 at 7:36 AM
    #1
    legbuh

    legbuh [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    S. MN
    Vehicle:
    95 Taco SR5 4x4 3.4L
    Lift
    I've had my Taco now for a few months and found the only thing that doesn't work is the AC.

    The other day I was shopping at Walmart and saw one of those canned "recharge, oil, and seal" cans so I thought, why not.

    I followed the instructions and started pumping it in (even had the pressure gauge on it so I wouldn't overcharge).

    For a while, nothing. Then about 1/2 a can through I heard the compressor kick on. Nice! So that verifies that the compressor does know when the system is too low.

    I kept going until the pressure was "perfect" and I had only a tiny amount left in the can.

    I went for a drive. The AC was working great. Ice cold. But, I could smell some weird stuff. Very chemically, and little like rubbing alcohol.

    Later that day, I tested things again and the compressor would no longer kick on. So, I know there's a leak somewhere.

    The can I bought didn't seem to have a leak detector in it. Would it be worth it to get a can with that in it to know where the issue is? Or does the smell the came through the vents offer enough to diagnose?

    The only reason I'd want the AC is for winters to help defrost. So it's isn't necessary but it would be nice. :)

    Thanks!

    Edit:

    I also wanted to mention that while testing and the AC running it was a nice warm day and after a few minutes water started dripping from the passenger side just like it should. So no plugs there.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  2. Sep 22, 2014 at 8:38 AM
    #2
    geodude

    geodude Well-Known Member

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    Just going off the fact that you're getting that chemically smell (probably the refrigerant) in the cab, I'd say look for a leak at/near the evaporator.

    Assuming the A/C system layout is the same in your 95? as it is in my '02, that's the piece that's behind and underneath the glove box.

    An easy way to check for a gross leak here without disassembling anything would be to locate the water drain off the evaporator that comes through the firewall into the engine bay. It'll be near the floorboards on the passenger side, a 3" piece of black rubber tubing. Roll up a paper towel, push it up there and see if there's any sort of A/C dye or residue all over it. If not this doesn't rule out a possible leak in there, but it's a good start to finding it.
     
  3. Sep 22, 2014 at 8:43 AM
    #3
    bawilson21

    bawilson21 Well-Known Member

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    Bryan
    WA
    Vehicle:
    00 SR5 V6 4x4 5-speed
    Rear Diff Breather Extension Deck Plate Mod 31" Destination A/T 3" Body Lift Rancho 5000 Shocks Grey Wire 7Pin Tow harness
    Sounds like you have a leak as you mentioned. Probably the easiest thing to do would be to take it in to get repaired. No hassle and they'll fix it. But if you want to do things yourself. I would suggest doing alot of research first about how an AC system works. Youtube is good for that (I found Eric the Car Guy to be helpful). Try not to release too much refrigerant into the atmosphere....global warming and shit - or whatever. Plus, your just wasting money.


    First you'll have to find where the leak is. I would first focus on the Low and high pressure ports first as thats where most of the leaks seems to develop. Theyre also the easiest to fix! If you have access to a vacuum pump and a set of manifold gauges , hook it up and evacuate your AC system for a good 15-30 minutes. Then turn the vacuum off, close your AC system and watch to see if you have a leak. If you know you do, take off the gauges and put your ear next to the high and lower charging ports and listen for a leak. If you hear something, just goto your auto parts store and get a valve repair kit ($5-$10) and try to repair it yourself. Pretty simple to do. Once you do, that retest by drawing a vacuum again. Confirm that you have dont have any leaks by testing a week or two later (if you dont have manifold gauges, just press the schrader valve and listen for your AC system to suck air in). If you still have a leak, then, just charge it with some R134-A with the dye in it. Run it for a bit and inspect the system with a UV light during the night. Where the glow is coming from, that's where you have the leak. Replace whatever components you need to, then retest for leaks.


    If you can confirm you dont have a leak now, then its time to recharge your system. I would first suggest replacing the accumulator. Its a $10 part that will remove moisture from your AC system. It contains desiccant packets that are used up when you have your AC system opened up to the atmosphere for too long. It takes about 5 minutes and two bolts to replace but dont do it until after you have confirmed you dont have a leak. Then refer to the service guide for correct method (and amount of refrigerant) to recharge your AC system.

    513w62npTyL._SL1500_.jpg
     
  4. Sep 22, 2014 at 8:59 AM
    #4
    bawilson21

    bawilson21 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
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    Vehicle:
    00 SR5 V6 4x4 5-speed
    Rear Diff Breather Extension Deck Plate Mod 31" Destination A/T 3" Body Lift Rancho 5000 Shocks Grey Wire 7Pin Tow harness
    When the time does come to charge, I recommend charging by weight.

    From the Factory Service Manual
    Completely evacuate your system, then put about 21 ounces in. Use a kitchen scale or something to monitor the weight of the can you are using.
     
  5. Sep 22, 2014 at 9:12 AM
    #5
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    What bawilson21 said.

    I will add that the early Tacos up to 98 IIRC, had a hard line prone to cracking. It was upgraded in the later years. Not sure if it was just the 3.4 or not, further research should turn up more info on it.
     

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