3rz fe oil pump help

So here's my dilemma...was out in the woods bout half hour from the house when a horrendous slapping/clanking noise started coming from the engine...looked down at my gauges and my oil pressure light, battery light, ect were all lit up and the engine was hot(not redlined yet tho)..I immediately killed the motor and popped the hood to inspect...everything visually looked fine...let the engine naturally cool off and fired it back up to see if I could pinpoint my issue...I immediately noticed that NONE of my belts were turning and shut the motor down/ called a tow truck ( took them 6 hours to find me!!)..on arrival at the house I removed my belts, fan, shroud, ect and realized I had a good inch of play on the crank pulley and the pulley bolt was only finger tight...soo..I removed the pulley (and radiator to give some space) and realized the pulley had an inch or so chunk broke off and the 'play' I had in the pulley had sheared the woodruff key and chewed up the front crank seal...I was able to retrieve the broken piece of the pulley and what could be some of the key from just inside the front seal..am in the process of removing the oil pump cover( not an easy task tho..toyota for some reason decided to use 9 Phillips head screws instead of hex bolts) to see if there is any internal damage to the oil pump...my question is -1...is the woodruff key that aligns in the groove on the pulley the same key that aligns in the oil pump rotor(gear)..and-2...is it possible to replace the oil pump internals and "test" the pressure relief valve without having to pull the head/oil pan/timing chain cover?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated...have a little experience with basic stuff but am starting to sail into strange waters!!!

 

pictures would be great, I've broken down the front of a 22re. I can probably provide you some input but I'm not super familiar that deep into an RZ series engine. IIRC the oil pump on the 22re was turned by a flat spot on the crank and not a woodruff key.

Update: After looking at some pictures over on LCE I think the oil pump is driven by a flat spot or two on the crank. If your sheared key blew out the front main the pump could not build pressure. You're gonna have to pull the oil pump cover and see if there is any internal damage. The oil pump and cover isn't that expensive but if you're timing cover was damaged that's gonna be pricey. You may need an impact driver to remove the pump cover. If it comes to it, It shouldn't be necessary to remove the head to pull the timing cover although you may have to drop the front of the oil pan.
http://www.lceperformance.com/default.asp

 

Yea...impact wrench would help..got 6 of the 9 screws out with #3 screw bit in a 1/4 inch ratchet socket...broke a. half dozen bits and stripped the 3 remaining screws...will definetly be looking into replacing these with hex bolts!!...As for the drive/driven rotors in the pump itself...looks like they are maybe driven by the flat spots on the pulley itself..?so I'm sure they took some damage when that thing was slapping around in there..will post some pics when I get things tore apart some more

 

Just hoping I'm not going to all this trouble to get it back together and find I've got a shot crank bearing or something catastrophic!!

 

Sounds like when your pulley backed off it quit turning the oil pump. The way you describe it you're probably fine. The bearings can probably turn for a couple of minutes at idle with no oil pressure before doing catastrophic damage. The only thing I would be concerned about would be damage to the crankshaft by the pulley sitting still while it kept turning. Although it's still worth dissecting the oil pump to be sure.

This is what I meant by impact driver. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
You hit the end with a hammer and it loosens or tightens the screw.