Door lock

I have a 2010 Prerunner TRD Double cab and my problem is:
Drivers door interior lock "lever" quit moving. This is the small "lock/unlock" toggle device next to the door handle. It has stopped working with both keyless entry and door lock/unlock from inside cab. I took door panel off and noticed two cables running to interior handle, one to door handle and one to this toggle device, I don't see how this could be a physical cable problem but I've been wrong before.

Anyone else having this problem? Anyone know why this happened? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

I just started having this same problem on my 09' dcsb last month but haven't been able to figure out why. I also was hoping someone else has had this problem and found a easy fix so I wouldn't have to take it into the dealer.

 

I just so happened to have mine apart today. It's likely the little electric motor with the worm gear has stopped working. First though you would want to take off the door panel and make sure you're getting voltage at the plug that goes into the locking assembly. If you are, then then it's time you get a lock actuator, about $90 from rockauto.com. If you're mechanically inclined, you might be able to change it, lots of little bits to do when changing these out.

Came across this further down in the thread pertaining to repairing the DC motors inside the actuator.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/96-...actuator-repair-fix-your-door-locks-free.html

 

**Update**

My door still functions as it should (lock/unlock) with key less remote and interior door lock/unlock, the only thing that does not work is the lever itself. Moving this lock/unlock lever manually has no effect on the door which makes me think maybe a physical cable issue? Something is not making a "connection". I will have a chance this weekend to investigate further and will update if any progress is made.

Thanks for the info 2ndchance, I don't feel comfortable in my ability to work with such small parts as mentioned in your post while I am partaking in adult beverages. I am hoping for a quick and painless fix but not looking forward to spending $$ on a new actuator if that's the issue.

 

Ah ok. Yeah if there's no resistance on the lock/unlock, then yeah, likely your problem is the cable/or it's connection at the actuator. Assuming the cable is disconnected inside the door:

Unplug connector from actuator.

To get the actuator out, you'll need a torx bit (can't remember the size). Remove the 3 torx on the side of the door that hold the actuator. About 4 inches above those is a black plastic cover, covering a hole about 1.5" in dia. Remove cover with small flathead screwdriver. It's through that hole you'll back out (but not remove) another bolt that holds in the key hole assembly. Reach in through the door and push out on the rod to remove the keyhole assembly.

You'll also need to move the window channel. Find the channel and remove the bottom mounting bolt, but only loosen the top bolt (they are both 10mm head).

There is a rod that connects the actuator to the door handle. Look inside and 'flip up' the retaining clip that holds that rod. Now that the actuator is loose, put a pry bar through the hole where the electrical connector normally goes, and pry that rod away from the door handle. You could reach inside and pull, but it's in there pretty good.

To removed the lock/unlock/lever assembly, pull the backside out a little, and slide the whole assembly forward, or back, I can't remember exactly.

I hope this helps, because the dealer is probably going to charge a couple hours in labor, assuming you're not under warranty. If you have anymore questions just ask.

 

Do you have a part number from Rock Auto for this assembly? I've been looking for an OEM alternative for a while and didn't see it on their website.

 

It appears they only have for the rear doors DLA178 and
DLA179 under Door Lock Actuators

 

What year Tacoma are you searching under? I can't find anything like that for my 2007. That part number doesn't come up as compatible with mine.

 

Thats for a 2006. And I seriously doubt those actuators are different. The doors should be the same.

 

Awesome, thank you! I searched under 2006 and they came up, search under 2007 and got nothing. My rear door has been non-responsive for a while now, I'm willing to give it a shot. Dealer wants over $200 for theirs.

 

Did you read about how to repair the motor inside the actuator?

 

Yep, done that a few times so far on 2 doors. The first time it worked perfectly, the second time it worked for about a week, I redid it and they didn't come back to life at all. I think the motors are officially shot. I've been trying to find just a motor replacement but can't find one. It's a stupid $2 motor that's the problem.

 

Yeah, mine were locked up from being water damaged. Guess we'll see just how long they last now that they're free'd up.

 

Finally got a chance to take my door apart and get down to the nitty gritty. I found my problem was a cable, more specifically the little plastic "eyelet" on the actuator end where the cable attaches was broken. After taking my door apart I figured out how to get the actuator out and looked under the plastic flip open "door" and it was staring me in the face. The only fix I could come up with was to super glue the eyelet back together, seems to be working fine but I don't believe this is a permanent fix. Any suggestions? I would hate to spend the $200+ on a new actuator if the only thing wrong is a 2 cent piece of plastic.




If anyone has an old regulator (driver's door) they don't want and I can cannibalize, let's talk. Thanks in advance.

 

I would ask on here if anyone still has actuators left over where the motors went bad. Could probably pick one up for cheap then swap that piece out.

 

Don't forget car-part.com Search for 'lock actuator'. Might want to post in the 2nd gen classified under WTB or Want To Buy.

 

Mike,
Did you try swapping out the cap end with the new brushes from the ones you bought?
That's basically what I did noted in the other actuator thread.

 

I removed the motor on my 97 Tacoma and found it had self-destructed leaving no brushes and only stubs where the holders were so it's new motor for me. I read through the Rav4 thread and they give an excellent description of the problem with lots of sources for new motors. $6 for a motor makes a lot more sense than a whole new actuator like Toyota wants me to buy. I can buy a bunch of motors in order to find the right one and still be ahead. Meanwhile the door is bungeed closed!