Bolting on my All Pro sliders today.

Just wondering if there is any threads or advise that anyone can give to make the install go as easy as possible.

I figure on just using jack stands to mock up and drill any pilot holes needed. Then taking them off, drilling all final holes, touch up paint, and re-install.

Just seeing if anyone has any tricks I'm not listing here.

 

That's all there is to it. Get some cutting oil at the hardware store to help the drill bit, lube helps through the strong frame

 

Have a few C-clamps handy. Due to welding distortion, the slider's attachment flanges may not rest flat against the frame at all points, so you will need to clamp the flanges to the frame while drilling.

A stepped "unibit" reportedly works very well on the frame. In my experience, the conventional drill bits tend to grab once you step up to the larger sizes.

 

Never heard of a stepped "unibit" I'll have to check those out. Thanks for the replies.

 

This is a unibit:

 

I used 5 different sizes of bits, 7/32 5/16 3/8 7/16 1/2

Curing oil for sure
Took a blown up 5/16 bit to the face, wised up and got safety glasses.

I bolted all the top/outside bolts first then just let the slider hang there and stick the bit though the holes in the slider mount thingies to drill the frame.

I have BAMF sliders, should be similar

 

Started with regular bits, just because I had some. Then switched to the Dewalt pilot bits. Those things drilled strait through the frame like hot butter. Similar tip on them to the unibit but only goes up to the size you need to prevent you from making too big of a hole (something I F*ed up on on two of the front holes that need to be smaller for the self tapping bolts, accidentally grabbed the 3/8 bit instead of the 5/16 it called for. Oh well going to have to see if I can find some bigger bolts to fit the bigger holes today).

My new concern is that on the drivers side the bolts are really close to the break lines in a few spots. Was now wondering what people did to prevent them from rubbing?

 

^You can either carefully bend the brake lines, or get some fuel hose, cut a slit along it, and wrap the hose around the brake lines as a guard.

Instead of self-tapping bolts, see if you can use through-bolts. To install the nut, lightly tape the nut to a long wrench and insert the wrench through the opening where the frame transitions from boxed to C-channel section. Through-bolts are going to be a lot stronger.

 

Through bolts. Grade 8

 

I have the same sliders on order. For the break lines, I was planning to bend them.

 

Thanks I was unable to continue my install yesterday, through bolts look like they would be a pain to get in there but worth a try. Pretty sure I have a few spare grade 8's I could try to get in there later today.

If the weather holds off long enough here in central CA today I might head up to the mountains and try to get in one last MTB ride tonight instead. We have a pretty good sized storm heading our way that could snow me out of my local trails for a while.

 

Be careful not to break the brake lines when bending them. With the engine running, pump the brake pedal a few times, then check the bend area for leaks.

 

do yourself a favor and get a good stepped bit. I have different sliders but spent half a day drilling with crap bits and then got frustrated and went out and got a good stepped one, made it go so much faster.