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Which vehicle would you start with for SAS?

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Dr. Sleep, Nov 24, 2014.

  1. Dec 20, 2014 at 12:46 PM
    #21
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    There's two ways you can look at that..... I used to think the same way you did...but after building a rig... I now see just how much time, effort, $$ that goes into these rigs.

    Option A: Spend $20K on a rig that is already built with everything you want/need.

    Or

    Option B: I can guarantee (well, almost) you can spend close to $20k total building your own rig to the same capacity (as above). The cost of the vehicle, all the parts/upgrades (everything), amount of time (figured in labor costs), etc...

    The only difference between the two is longevity (older vs newer), maintenance, and insurance costs, and of course...a car loan if you have one.
     
  2. Dec 20, 2014 at 1:01 PM
    #22
    GZ1

    GZ1 My Frame Isn't Rusty

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    I would start with any model tacoma. Parts are so easy to get for them. Frames are much simpler to modify and weld to. So many axle voices work well from the original toyota axles to d44 or 60s. Power is great. AC and fuel injection is great too.
     
  3. Dec 20, 2014 at 1:05 PM
    #23
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    if you want a Toyota, an old FJ, or 80s pickup or 4runner that already has a solid front axle
     
  4. Dec 20, 2014 at 10:29 PM
    #24
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Connor
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    You can buy a good solid axle rig in whatever flavor you please for $7-8k if we are just throwing money at things. I feel a whole lot better wheeling an $8k rig than a $20k one but ymmv.

    I still argue that I'd rather start with an ifs mini truck rather than an 85 and down depending on the deal. You still need the ifs rear axle, steering box and shaft when you start solid axle. Obviously thats somewhat offset by needing to buy a housing instead but I definitely wouldn't pay a premium for an 85 and down like so many people ask for.
     
  5. Dec 20, 2014 at 11:13 PM
    #25
    Mikeybuck

    Mikeybuck Well-Known Member

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    What he said....

    Find a nice clean CHEAP 2wd truck... pick up a trail gear front axle housing, find some transfer cases and build your dual cases, some cheap 3rd members off craigslist, new gears and lockers, etc... and have fun in your OWN truck.
     
  6. Dec 20, 2014 at 11:42 PM
    #26
    Artruck

    Artruck Well-Known Member

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    If I was going to do a solid axle trail rig, I would start with the comanche. Dirt cheap around here. Millions of parts that can be had off the cherokee or the aftermarket. Sfa from the start or swap cherokee parts to a 2wd. It would be the low buck road to take, but there would be limits on creature comforts and reliability..... also rust, lots of it.
     
  7. Dec 21, 2014 at 4:50 PM
    #27
    ffdawson

    ffdawson Dirt Head

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  8. Dec 29, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #28
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I used to have a jeep yj on 33s and locked up front and my taco is 100% more capable on 33s and IFS than that yj ever was. Solid front axles are nice but not the end all for wheeling. The wheelbase of the Toyota is nice and stable, and equipped with a crawler and a rear locker you can run 75% of the trails in this country. Really the only reason im planning a swap is because the truck gets beached on evreything and i need bigger tires, i want a front locker, and my IFS is just flat out dieing on me and its not cost effective to repair it. I have only snapped one CV though since wheeling the truck for the first time in 05! Plus wheeling in the AC is SOOOOOOO damn nice, wheeling with no top or doors sweating all day brought the suck!

    If i had to do it over again, i would get a regular cab, 2wd tacoma and swap that. Why regular cab? Because i think they look cool!

    I have currently swapped out on my truck: the tcase for duals and a lefty, the rear axle is getting swapped for an fj80 axle and i am currently researching my SAS with a toyota axle. So at the end of the day all i have left that came on the truck from the factory is the body, interior, engine and trans.
     
  9. Jan 2, 2015 at 10:46 PM
    #29
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Reg cabs look cool but really suck for storage...but then again I was a 4Runner guy before my Taco.. We need to get the ball rolling on your swap, All Day Sucker needs to happen sooner rather than later. :cool:
     
  10. Jan 2, 2015 at 10:51 PM
    #30
    tacobell007

    tacobell007 Western Mass Automotive Coatings

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    x2 on a 3rd gen runner. Factory 3 link in the rear
     
  11. Jan 3, 2015 at 6:37 AM
    #31
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Hijack alert...
    Why do some people (when they switch from leafs) 3 link the rear instead of 4 linking it? I was under the impression that 4 link is better for the rear and 3 link up front.
     
  12. Jan 3, 2015 at 9:00 AM
    #32
    GZ1

    GZ1 My Frame Isn't Rusty

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    I guess it all depends who your talking to. There are many types of three link and four link. A common rear three link is with a "wishbone" type three link which needs no panhard bar. So many different ways to do it
     
  13. Jan 6, 2015 at 6:23 PM
    #33
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I just like the look of the reg cab tacos.

    Funding for the project has passed congressional approval (my wife), parts accumulation will begin this summer and possible swap over the winter.

    I ran the first part of that trail IFS.... If I had a trailer and a cage i would have continued lol!!!

    I need to pick up those fj60 axles from mud asap!!
     
  14. Jan 6, 2015 at 6:31 PM
    #34
    burl51

    burl51 Active Member

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    check out trail gear or marlin crawler for sas swaps cool sites

    burl
     
  15. Jan 6, 2015 at 11:41 PM
    #35
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Do itttt, and just watch for deals on used parts. There is a yard down here that has super cheap stuff and normally has Toyota stuff. I'm always driving through Chicago on the way to Rockford.

    You don't have to relocate the gas tank if you 3 link the rear instead of 4 link. They both work well when setup right and just depend on the packaging more than anything.

    Nope, it's a 4 link with a panhard. It works really well except when you start to lift over 4 inches, then some funny panhard angles come into effect. Plus the upper links are super weak and have to be built from tube to hold up
     
  16. Jan 7, 2015 at 6:46 AM
    #36
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    If you see a 5spd trans for a v6 Tacoma in there let me know. The rebuild kit from marlin is 400bucks plus my time and extra money for me fucking it up, so if I can find a 5spd at that price point I'll just swap it.
     
  17. Jan 14, 2015 at 8:39 PM
    #37
    Ritchie

    Ritchie Well-Known Member

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    2.7 w/auto, 4WU 3 link, F & R Diamonds, ARB's F/R w/ Yukon 5.29's, Inchworm 4.7 Lefty, Deavers, ARB OBA, Schrockworks up front.
    Bail Trail Gear. Go with Diamond (FROR) for the axle and 4 Wheel Underground for the killer 3 link for the front.

    Just my .02

    Later.
     
  18. Jan 14, 2015 at 9:02 PM
    #38
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    Jerry
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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    this ^ packaging is why i did a 3 link in the rear i didn't want to move the tank to the bed taking up space. Mine handles great on and off road.
     
  19. Jan 15, 2015 at 12:12 PM
    #39
    Dr. Sleep

    Dr. Sleep [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Solid choices . . . ARB (best lockers out there IMO), new gears, I'm leaning toward Dana 60's (rather than find out years later I need to upgrade froma Dana 44). But the Jeep transfer cases seem pretty strong. Most people who've swapped in Chevy V8's in the Jeep, bring the GM transmission, but keep the Jeep transfer case.
     
  20. Feb 2, 2015 at 7:49 PM
    #40
    bullcrew

    bullcrew Well-Known Member

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    Buy one already done....good market for it...low prices fr the most part and let someone else do the work...
    I got mine in parts, half done and on a trailer but I fabricate so it was no problem...got a 4dr Tacoma exactly what I wanted....
    Stay 3.4 litre 5vze 1st gen tacos 3rd gen 4runners....for the power and reliability....lots of decent stuff out there and pop up pretty often....or do what's on my bucket list build....GEN 1 4Rrunner......

    I've had heavily modified tj's jk's yj's, 7u desert race trucks (Toyota), prerunners and a ton of other things out there...
    What I've learned is.....
    1- cheaper to usually let someone else take the $ hit on build.
    2- get to know what your looking for and prices so you can be prepared and JJ p fast if the right deal comes up
    3- by the time you heavily modify any rig it comes down to wheelbase, roll over, departure and approach...so you can stretch a jeep or reduce wheelbase on a Tacoma ex cab...depending on use less belly height might be OK on which case jeeps are good....

    Toyota you sit horizontal so plenty of belly height with low roof height....longer wheelbase stable on climbs, .lighter so the 3.4 power to weight ratio is golden....reliable and bomb proof...

    Jeep sits vertical so you have lower belly and higher roof line , 4.0 tends to run a bit warm but is a good motor..parts are cheap and its linked already...the 35s need to go....

    They both have pros and cons but both great rigs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015

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