All Pro - Timbren/U-bolt flip kit install problems

When it comes to tough luck, I'm your guy. As you can see from the photos below, I'm missing a key piece of hardware (qty 2) from my U-bolt flip kit from All Pro. Not only that, but I've called All Pro TWICE over the past 2 months to ask for missing hardware from my front bumper and both times they've told me they'd send it out, no luck.

Onto the install woes... From the pics below, I can't for the life of me figure out how the 7/8" heads of the nuts provided with the kit can receive a socket and clear the black ring around the black base of the bump stop (find no. 5 below in the pic). In order to torque down the head you MUST be able to fit the nut AND the socket over the nut and clear the steel support plate(find no. 5), which should have cut outs to clear the socket wrench but it doesn't. Well my kit doesn't allow for the shoulder of the nut to come close to clearing the black plate, much less allow room for the socket so I can't get the darn thing installed.

I've tried flipping the "gold" top plate since there is definitely a top and a bottom, installing the bump stop with the tapped holes both forward and sideways and nothing seems to be working. I am not sure if the fact that I'm missing the "cup", P/N A1602B (qty 2) has anything to do with me not being able to clear the nuts, but I've snapped a few pictures and would LOVE some advice.

I'll call All Pro when they open up.

find number 3 below is the "cup" that I'm missing.


Here's a pic of the head of the nut HITTING the black steel plate on the bump stop during assembly: Tapped holes are in line with the leaf spring like others have done before...


Here's a pic of the 2nd U-bolt in my hand. This shows that the shoulders of the nuts CANNOT clear the black steel plate and the socket is the same size as the shoulder on the screw so even if I could tighten the nuts down by hand, there is no way I could torque them down (plus you can't tighten them by hand).





I could really use some help... TIA...

 

i would say most likely you need to install the ubolt flip first without the bumpstops.. then after they are torqued down come back and bolt the bumpstops to the top plate.....

 

I'll try that now... makes sense I guess...

 

what about the missing part? is it needed?

 

yup, thats how it's done!

 

i would guess that they made that part for a reason.. however i see no reason that you cant install what you have now and when you get that cup part go back and add it in..... it looks as though what you have at the moment would function just fine to me....

 

If that does not get it use a grinder to notch 4 more spots in the plate to clear the bolts. Little black paint and there you go.
It is not fun when things do not fit right but it seems that sometimes it is easier to just make a slight adjustment and get it finished.
Best of luck.

 

OK, here's an update... Since I don't have a 2.75" or 3" leaf pack, the u-bolts are really long. Here are some pics of the passenger side installed and torqued down.





As you can see, the length of the u-bolts are eating up about 1/2 of my bump stop compression because I don't have an All Pro or OME leaf pack. I know I could grind off the extra length BUT if I ever get a leaf pack I would be kicking myself for doing this. Also, if I want to check the torque on the u-bolt nuts I'm going to have to remove the bump stop. Not a huge deal since I'm missing a part, but a little more R&D and that wouldn't be the case.

I'm not sure if installing these bump stops WITH THE FLIP KIT actually bought me anything. The u-bolts are in line with the bed support that hits the bump stop. I guess the only way to find out is to get about 6-8 friends to all jump in the bed of my truck on Monday and see if the U-bolts end up hitting when the bump stop is compressed.

Odds are I'll end up needing to add a leaf pack and then will have driveline vibration issues... Oh the joy...

 

you should be fine for a little while like that. if you dont plan on changing springs then i would say trim them down but if springs are in the future then i would leave them be for now.

and as for the driveline vibration.. dont sweat it now.. its a hit or miss kinda thing so you may end up just fine... i've never had any problems with mine....

 

DONE!

From what I can tell from reading a bunch of threads, it seems as if the trucks with the short beds (like what I have) seem to be the trucks with the driveline issues. Isn't the bed of your TRD Sport a little longer than my TRD O/R? Does that mean you have a longer drive shaft so that when lifted, your angles aren't as extreme?

 

same bed... there's only a short bed and long bed.. both come in offroad and sport models. when i was still running the stock drivetrain it was the exact same as yours.

 

Sweet. Good to know. Now I just need to save up for the rear shocks, leaf pack and rear bumper.

 

If you want to get rid of the extra thread hanging out, go for it. Later on down the road if you decide to go with an AAL or an aftermarket leaf pack you will be replacing the u bolts anyways. It is highly recommended to replace the u-bolts when replacing leaf packs. (due to bolt stretch)

 

little off topic sorry.... do you have to run the 5mm spacer with the m/t classic? they look bad ass by the way. thanks

 

How much did this kit set you back. I have both the normal flip kit (w/o the timbrens) and timbrens which I have taken off of my truck. I wonder if I can modify my flip kit to accept my timbrens?

 

I torqued down the u-bolts yesterday to 75 ft-lbs and would have to remove them, cut them to length and find a die to rechase the threads. Anyone have any idea where I can find a die the right size???

I had to run the spacer because the M/T's just touched my caliper. Also, they are "Classic Locks" which are different then "Classic II's".

It was in the neighborhood of $220 shipped. All you would need to do is drill and tap 2 holes in the base plate of your timbrens AND drill out 2 clearance holes in the steel so that your socket wrench would allow you clearance to access the 2 tapped holes.

 

really..... your wheels touched?? mine didnt have any issues at all..... ?? and i'm running 16's not 17's....

as far as the u bolts... if you do decided to cut them let me know.. i may have the right size die for them... if not i can still show you how to do it and not have any problems....

 

Yes, I've decided to cut them. Since I'll have to install the missing parts AND retorque the nuts I'll just cut them then. If you have any advice let me know. I was probably just going to mark them (leaving about 1/2" extra length) and remove them then put them in a vice and use a dremmel tool. I have a file to "try" to chase the threads, but if I had a die that would make things easier.

My wheels might have had .001" of clearance to .001" of interference BEFORE the lug nuts were torqued down. I could rotate the wheels and occasionally hear a light scrape on the caliper on the front tires. Must have something to do with the different sizes of calipers, the casting tolerances varying from caliper to caliper, varying wheel tolerances, different sized wheels (maybe different BS? I'm at 4.5), etc...

All Pro was closed over the weekend so when I call them tomorrow I'm going to see if they have a shorter u-bolt option with their supplier. I can't imagine the u-bolts by themselves (w/o the timbrens) can cost more than $20.