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LED BAR QUESTIONS

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Tjkearney33, Dec 27, 2014.

  1. Feb 2, 2015 at 6:26 PM
    #41
    dscott7

    dscott7 Well-Known Member

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    Bump. I think i figured out the wire gauge issue, since it isn't a huge gauge change it shouldn't be an issue. Still trying to figure out the wiring since one switch has three wires and one has four. I don't plan on wiring it into the high beams, it's going to be just off the switch.
     
  2. Feb 2, 2015 at 9:12 PM
    #42
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    I'm hopefully doing this tomorrow, but I want my light to work with the high beams when the switch is on. I also have the air on board switch that has the same wiring diagram that your posted dscott7. I need to pick up a 1 amp diode that's pictured in that diagram. I think I will try to tap into my high beam trigger wire at the high beam relay. I'm subbing here to learn. I want to do it right the first time.

    If you elect to go with just the switch, and no high beam trigger, you should be able to wire it with just a light bar harness and your new switch, but I'm not certain, so hopefully one of the electrical gurus will chime in and confirm.
     
  3. Feb 2, 2015 at 9:36 PM
    #43
    dscott7

    dscott7 Well-Known Member

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    I'm planning on doing it tomorrow also. I'm wondering if I can just leave one of the cords unplugged since it would normally be going to the high beams I think.
     
  4. Feb 3, 2015 at 9:22 AM
    #44
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    And I'm thoroughly confused and I haven't even started. I have my AVEC light bar that came with the harness. The switch on the harness has three wires and looks like this:

    IMG_0096_zpsc55c7b5f_45402a0f2b1d36b1af19c7f03434e324ac92a4f7.jpg

    The white wire is going to pin 87 on the relay.
    The blue wire is going to pin 85 on the relay.
    The black wire is going to pin 86 on the relay.

    I want to use this switch in the diagram below and have the light bar come on with the high beams when the switch is on, and remain off when I hit the high beams if the switch is off.

    Here is the wiring diagram for the switch:

    0544CB00-459D-466C-83DA-614D2C14B246_zps_d5852bb82bab88c79158a02c313a769b3b1e1239.jpg



    Do I just cut off the switch, solder in my diode on the blue wire and do not use the white or black?

    I have a tap-a-circuit to bring +12v to my new switch from the in-cab fuse panel. I can tap into my OEM fog light wiring for the illumination, and I can find a ground under the dash for ground.

    If that all sounds good, then will I just be able to come from my high beam relay and connect from the trigger side of it to pin 86 of my light bar harness?

    Thanks for any help, I am not feeling confident AT ALL right now so if someone could confirm any of this for me, I'd really appreciate it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2015
  5. Feb 3, 2015 at 9:45 AM
    #45
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    How do you want to wire it? You trying to use one of the fancy options? Or just basic wiring?

    In a 12v application, Black should always be -
     
  6. Feb 3, 2015 at 10:35 AM
    #46
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    I pm'd you skygear. I just want to use the air on board switch like this:

    When AOB switch is turned on, light bar comes on and off when I switch my high beams on and off.

    When AOB switch is off, my high beams work as normal and led bar stays off.
     
  7. Feb 3, 2015 at 12:04 PM
    #47
    dscott7

    dscott7 Well-Known Member

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    Hoping to get a similar wiring situation but without high beams, not sure if I have to complete a circuit for the 4th wire or if it's okay to leave it not plugged in or if it needs power to make the switch/light bar work.


    Checklist for 30 inch lightbar install:
    1. Bought self tapping screws as well as bolts, going to figure out which will work best. I will edit this with a post for what length the bolts I used for the aluminum crash beam are if I go that route.
    2. Bought locktite so I can make sure that it stays on.
    3. Bought wire strippers, going to have to solder off the ends of some wires and solder them back on so I can pass the wires through the firewall.
    4. For passing through firewall: Going to attempt to push them through the rubber grommet where the rest of the vehicle wiring is. If they are too thick to go through then I might drill another hole in the firewall and pass them through there. I bought a few different rubber grommets for whatever size hole I end up using. They sell rubber grommets at lowes in the hardware section.


    The parts I'm really worried about are passing through the firewall, soldering connections, and wiring the electricity properly. Drilling a lightbar on shouldn't be the hard part. Nor should removing the front bumper.
     
  8. Feb 3, 2015 at 3:15 PM
    #48
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    I just got the bar mounted, I haven't even begun wiring yet. I' m still waiting to get confirmation on the correct way to wire it up to achieve what I want. Looks good though!


    IMG_4870_zps2c0e1fa7_3014cef400e2a6de951986cb41c14d6272eaf90b.jpg
     
  9. Feb 3, 2015 at 3:40 PM
    #49
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Sorry man, got busy/ focussed on the fuse boxes I build. Finishing up dinner and I'll post up. I would take a look at the wiring diagram for the light too. Just to verify the relay wiring.
     
  10. Feb 3, 2015 at 3:59 PM
    #50
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    No worries sky!! I had plenty to do today as well. My light didn't come with a schematic, it's got a 40 amp/ 4 pin relay, as well as fused power, ground, and bar connections. And the 3 wire switch I posted above. I'm curious what you think whenever you get some time. I really do appreciate it!
     
  11. Feb 3, 2015 at 4:21 PM
    #51
    TacoguyBryguy

    TacoguyBryguy New Member

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    what do you guys thinks about about mounting a led lightbar on a no-rise canopy? this would be on an access cab.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2015 at 4:44 PM
    #52
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    What brand/ light/ link?
     
  13. Feb 3, 2015 at 5:12 PM
    #53
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    It's an AVEC from mikevee on here. Pretty standard looking harness. Two wires come out of the light.
     
  14. Feb 3, 2015 at 10:56 PM
    #54
    dscott7

    dscott7 Well-Known Member

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    Black wire from switch to ground wire (ground wire is black for rigid bars) (grounds everything)

    Red Wire to relay for switch power (Red wire for rigid bars)

    Blue wire to switch output (blue wire for rigid bars)

    Green wire has to be wired into your high beams somewhere (If you don't want to worry about having to have your high beams on to use it (aka I can park with my truck off and just push the button and have instalight) tie the blue and green wires together and connect it to the blue wire from a rigid bar)

    The Red wire decides if it is on or off on the switch. The Green wire tells the lightbar if your high beams are on. Both of them have to have power for your light to turn on. AKA 1. Are your high beams on and did you press the button? If "no" to either of those questions then you do not have light.

    _______________________________________________________________________________

    FOR RIGID BARS WITH AIR ON BOARD SWITCH

    This is for if you don't care about having to have your high beams on to use your lightbar

    Black to Black
    Red to Red
    Twist blue and green together from AOB switch and connect both of them to the blue wire from the rigid bar.
     
  15. Feb 3, 2015 at 11:22 PM
    #55
    BigE

    BigE Well-Known Member

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    Do you have any up close shots of the rigid brackets and your lightbar on it? and what modifications had to be done? I'm guessing some minor trimming of the valence plastic specifically the corners and the grill netting?
     
  16. Feb 4, 2015 at 8:02 AM
    #56
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    Dscott7, did you use a diode like the air on board schematic shows?

    BigE I did have to trim out the corners of the valence plastic somewhat. It barely visible once the mounts and light is in.
     
  17. Feb 4, 2015 at 8:29 AM
    #57
    TRSJimmy

    TRSJimmy All I Do Is Nguyen

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    I wonder why I didn't get a notification in my subscription list? :confused: Anyways, I'm glad Skygear is helping yall! And Eddie, this is what I had to do

    As Josh mentioned, it is a tight fit. If you trim the corners of your valence a little bit, you'll have some wiggle room to aim
     
  18. Feb 4, 2015 at 8:30 AM
    #58
    33harman

    33harman Well-Known Member

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    What a guy!! I wish I lived near by!!
     
  19. Feb 4, 2015 at 8:40 AM
    #59
    darkfader

    darkfader Will this fit without rubbing?

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    I didn't have to drill out the mounts where they attached to the bar. I did need to ream out the holes on the passenger side mount where it attached to my crashbar just because there was a sloppy weld on the aluminum from factory. :(
     
  20. Feb 4, 2015 at 9:02 AM
    #60
    dscott7

    dscott7 Well-Known Member

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    Ummmm.... Not that I know of. I used the fuse and relay from the Rigid lightbar.
     

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