3RZ oil leak behind crankshaft pulley...anyone?

Noticed oil on the ground in my carport about two weeks ago, started investigatin and found this. Originally I though it was the oil pan leaking so I pulled the pan and laid some new FIPG down. Well after two days I know where else it's leaking from. Never dealt with this leak before. I'm wondering if I'm going to have to remove the head to repair the leak if that's the case looks like it's going to get rebuilt while its apart.

 

More pics

 

It looks like it's leaking from around the oil pump o-ring, unless it's leaking from above. You can remove the crank pulley, then remove the oil pump and replace the o-ring between the oil pump and timing chain cover and replace the crank seal while you're at it.

From what I've read those 9 countersunk screws holding the oil pump on are a bitch to get out without stripping and others have replaced them with allen type countersunk screws when putting the pump back on.

I may be doing this job soon while I'm currently in the process of replacing the cylinder head and I have all the belts off. I think I have a leak from the crank seal or o-ring also.

 

Thanks DrZ. I've been reading up on it last night and today, that's what I've read on other posts. I just wanted some more opinions on it.

 

use a hand impact driver to remove the screws without stripping them and yes definitely replace them with allen screws when you are done.

like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEKTON-2905...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae3a05fb0&vxp=mtr

I like the 3/8" drive but they make a 1/2" drive as well, I just don't think anything large enough for you to need a 1/2" drive sockets for will ever break loose with a hammer and hand tool like this.

 

I tried using an impact and it didn't help. Stripped 7 out of the 9 screws. Replacements were not easy to find but I replaced them with stainless allen head bolts.

 

I'm going to order the bolts from LCE. Only 20 bucks for the bolts, o-ring, and crank seal shipped. I can't wait for this little adventure..........

 

Ordered all the parts yesterday, turned out to be 44 dollars shipped. They talked me into getting a seal saver......

 

I wish I could give you some advice from experience, but I'm still a few days or week away from attempting this.

Most people don't realize that Japanese companies use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) screws, not Phillips head. They look very similar, and I'm not sure which type these are because they may have been assembled in the USA. My Craftsman #2 Phillip head screwdriver is a little loose in the screw. My #2 JIS screwdriver and bit is a lot more snug. I'm hoping that they won't strip as easily with the JIS screwdriver. I'm not sure if this is why so many other people have trouble with them stripping.

Here are some pictures of the screws. Left is the original type (93220-16014). The right are the replacement I'll use. They are zinc plated class 12.9 alloy steel, 6mm x 1.0mm, length 14mm from boltdepot. (On flat head countersunk screws, the length is the total length.) A 4mm hex key fits the socket hex hole (standard size for this thread size). The oil pump is held on with 9 of these screws. It seems like the timing chain cover and oil pump cover are aluminum, so a super strong screw isn't necessary, but I'd be a little worried that the hole on a stainless steel hex screw could strip many years after it were installed.




I'm curious about the seal saver. I've read that you can also use some 600 grit emery cloth to clean up the sliding surface that contacts the seal. I believe the contact surface for the seal is actually part of the crank pulley that extends onto the crankshaft and into the oil pump which makes it a lot easier to inspect the surface for wear and scratches, and clean it up if necessary.

 

Up until yesterday is never even heard of a seal saver.

 

Job is terrible, stripped out the second bolt.. Back at square one, don't know what to do at this point besides remove the engine.....

 

No need to remove the engine, radiator maybe. Drill out the screw head on the stripped screws. Good sharp bit with variable speed drill. Go slow and easy, once the screw head is gone, remove the pump and take out the rest of the screw with vise grips.

 

I finally got the stripped one out, pulled the radiator and tapped it loose with a chisel.... Nerve racking

 

What was involved in installing the LCE seal saver? I saw a video on YouTube for a speedy sleeve and it comes with a cap that goes over the sleeve and they tapped the cap till the sleeve sets. Is this the way the LCE sleeve is installed? MiHow2 - SKF - Speedi Sleeve - YouTube

 

I've used quite a few speedi-sleeves in my lifetime, outboard lower units, four wheelers, cars, trailer bearings. They work well, just make sure and get the right one.
And make sure you actually need one,

I know this didn't answer the question about the make you're asking about, but hope this helps.

 

In the March 2,3 & 4 post Toypower talks about ordering parts from LCE for his oil leak. In the March 3rd post he states, "They talked me into buying a seal saver". But there's no lip on the LCE seal saver like there is on the Speedi Sleave. So I was wondering, how did he install the LCE seal saver. That's why I asked what's involved in the installation. Now in response to your post, how do I know if I actually need one? In Toypowers post, it almost sounds like LCE recommended or required that he install one whether he needed or not. Cuz he states, "They talked me onto it". That's kind of what I'm reading into it. I haven't started mt project yet. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start.

 

On mine, me being a welder and my friend guiding me was a real deal machinist from our work place (Shell chemical), he's the one that told me about the speedi-sleeve. The first experience was on the lower unit of our duck hunting boat. The lower unit taking on water, salt water at that.
The pinion shaft had a groove that was where the seal lip rode, so it lost it's crush clearance. He showed me by "hanging" his finger nail in the groove. The extra .002" of thickness on the sleeve gave it back the crush needed for sealing up the new seal. He also showed me about locating the new sleeve a few thousandths either farther in or out that could work.
The sleeve won't hurt anything as long as you follow the instructions well, it's been a few years now since I've put another on but I assume if still has the collar for tapping it on and then the groove for snapping the collar off.