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Cv axle removal problem

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TacomaRaider, Mar 8, 2015.

  1. Mar 8, 2015 at 4:04 PM
    #1
    TacomaRaider

    TacomaRaider [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am having a hard time removing my cv. I've done it before on my last first gen but this is the first time on my new truck. I've put quite a bit of pressure with a pry bar and it will not come off? Anyone ever had this problem? Know what the problem is or have any recommendations on what is should do? Thank you all for your time
     
  2. Mar 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM
    #2
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    When I did mine last, one side came out pretty easy with hand prying, the other I had to use my feet on the prybar and give it hell to pop out. You can always try turning the cv a little at a time and pry from a new position.
     
  3. Mar 8, 2015 at 5:35 PM
    #3
    TacomaRaider

    TacomaRaider [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've tried prying with my feet with a lot of pressure, turning cv also. No luck at all
     
  4. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #4
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    That's all I got, maybe a bigger bar? :p
     
  5. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:44 PM
    #5
    TIPICOTACO

    TIPICOTACO Well-Known Member

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    Dead blow hammer. A big cats paw worked well for me on the PS too. Which side is giving you a problem?
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2015
  6. Mar 9, 2015 at 2:49 AM
    #6
    TacomaRaider

    TacomaRaider [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Driver side
     
  7. Mar 9, 2015 at 4:25 AM
    #7
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    The straighter the axle is , the easier the axle comes out . Sometimes the snap ring groove gets filled up with crap and doesnt allow the snap ring to collapse properly .

    With this mentioned , it helps if you can find a way to get two pry bars behind the axle and apply even pressure to both pry bars at the same time . Once you have the two pry bars in position , give them a quick snap making sure the axle is as straight as possible . This trick has always worked for me and I have removed a few axles in my lifetime:eek:
     
  8. Mar 9, 2015 at 5:39 AM
    #8
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Toyota service manual suggests using SST (special service tool)...Which is nothing more than a slam hammer or dent puller to most of us. The slam hammer has a hook on the end ot grab the edge of the joint.

    I used my Harbor Freight slam hammer to do one a while ago. It worked awesome. Not to derail a thread, but the HF slam hammer kit is one of the best deals out there. I've used mine to remove steering wheels, gears, dents and tail shafts from transmissions and other things. I have no idea why I never had one of these tools right from the start. Best $59.99 I think I spent at that place.
     
  9. Mar 9, 2015 at 2:46 PM
    #9
    TacomaRaider

    TacomaRaider [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100 front and rear OME 882, OME Dakar, American Racing baja AR172 15x8, BFG KM2 32X11.50
    Do you think I could get away with the $20 slide hammer or am I going to need the heavy duty $60 one?
     
  10. Mar 9, 2015 at 2:55 PM
    #10
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember if they are different weights. If they have the same weight, might as well get the cheaper one.

    If you are planning on doing your own wrenching for a long while, i would get the one that has all the accessories. The uses of the slam hammer are unlimited... and who doesn't like more, good tools.

    I would do a Google search for HF coupons. You might find it makes sense to get the more expensive one with its own blow molded storage case.
     

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