Buggered Transfer Case Fill Plug

Over the weekend I attempted to check my fluid levels and top off as necessary.

All went well, but I couldn't get the transfer case fill plug removed. Ended up rounding the head of the plug. Moved onto a trying to grip the head with a pair of vice grips, which only made matters worse.

Drawing on my USAF training, next step was to attempt to remove the plug with a hammer and chisel. Get some purchase, then try driving the plug counter-clockwise. It only made matters worse.

Out came the propane torch. Leery of how much heat I could safely apply, I attempted to remove the plug...

Nothing...

With a new plug in hand, I'm now looking for some sage advice to safely remove the buggered plug....

Hints? Suggestions? GFY?

Thanks...

 

Weld a nut to it.

 

If you don't have ready access to a welder, you could cut a slot with a dremel wheel to fit a slotted screwdriver head. You would probably need an impact driver, or at least put a ratchet wrench on it, to get it to turn.

I like your idea of hammer and chisel. Try and use some PB Blaster Penetrant Oil on it first. Try and tap it clockwise and then counter-clockwise. Sometimes that helps to break it loose and start movement. Just throwing ideas out here. Good luck!

 

I've had luck warming stuck bolts and such and then spraying penetrating oil to rapidly cool. May need to do it repeatedly.

 

Careful with welding a nut or bolt to it... I fried my ABS motor doing that (and fortunately picked up a new one for only $100 instead of the $1500 dealer price).

Make sure you have a CLOSE and solid ground to where you are welding so nothing goes through the electronic system and fries anything...

If I had to do it again, I would clean REALLY well with a degreaser and JB Weld a nut or bolt to it.

 

"I" don't have a welder, though I guess I could track down someone with one.

I did apply PB Blaster during my attempts.

I do appreciate all the suggestions. I picked up a new plug & washer from the dealer yesterday - So I'm ready to proceed.

RE: applying heat to the plug. How much heat could I safely apply before I start 'cooking' the internals? I am intrigued by bighouse1 suggestion to heat / rapidly cool.

But back to welding a nut to the plug. The plug itself is steel, isn't the transfer case housing aluminum? If so, I'd have to ground the welder to the plug itself?

 

Nah, you should theoretically be able to ground anywhere on the frame and have no problem welding anywhere on the truck. The aluminum will conduct the electricity just fine.

It's kind of like grounding your steel welding table and welding aluminum on top of it.

Also it's probably a good idea to disconnect your battery before proceeding.

 

Probably too late now but for removing bolts like that (drains & fillers with dissimilar metals) a good crack flat on the face with a hammer usually loosens them right up.

 

Probably not too late

I'm going to try (in this order)
Heating and rapid cooling of the plug - bighouse1
Grinding a slot - arifleman
JB weld - JasonLee
Welding on a nut - PCTaco

All great options - with my luck, the 'last' option will probably be the one that works....

 

Heating, then hammering, a reheat, then pipe wrench if you still have enough to grab and maneuver.

Easy on the hammering,,don't lay/drive your alum case threads over/in getting pissed aggressive trying to work. The plug will then always loosen really easy,,or deadlock again to the case once you tighten the new one in. Good solid thumps. 6-7 thumps,,then reheat and try to remove.

 

Can you drive a slightly larger allen wrench into the hole? Then apply pressure there as well as a vise grip or small pipe wrench externally.

At least you didn't drain it first.

 

Ultimately, that's what I had to do...

Any thread treatment(s) to help prevent this from reoccurring?