⚠ Changed timing belt and coolant. This is what it sounds like.

This could be something.

 

I don't remember how it was before. But, again, going by the diagram shouldn't be causing issues. I'll try to guesstimate by reversing it again and seeing how far the wires go.

 

Also, the way you describe it running reminds me of a bad coil and/or wrong wires to cylinders.

Have we covered all the possibilities yet

 

If this was the case, would the truck not start at all? Or would it start but be rough?

 

Depends how many and which wires are crossed on whether or not it will run.

 

Obviously what's stamped on the wires doesn't matter as long as the wires are going to the correct companion cylinder but I would definitely double check all that and put them in the correct positions. Your sound file sounds really freaky - it starts out sounding like low compression on one or more cylinders which could be a timing issue, spark plug not seated, or mechanical damage, but then it sounds like it's trying to fire but on the wrong cylinder. If you had the plugs out for any reason make sure they're all seated and the crush washer is crushed. I'm betting it has to do w/ your plug wiring though. If it ran fine before it should run fine now. Is the timing belt absolutely tight all the way around?

 

I will unplug and replug all the spark plug wires in tomorrow. I'll also make a video of how much tension is on the belt all around tomorrow and post that as well. Along with a video from the front with the belt turning as I'm cranking it.

 

Belt tension video: https://streamable.com/dxf548

 

Video from front of trying to fire it up: https://streamable.com/fc88xl

 

These two connectors were very similar. I put the black with the black and the grey with the grey when putting things back. Did I mix these up?

 

I also checked that the spark plug wires are wired properly and seated fully.

I just want to reiterate that I didn't have this problem before I started the belt/coolant change. I did remove these things because I wanted to tighten the valve cover because of oil leak: air box, air intake tube, throttle body, intake manifolds. I unplugged and replugged the fuel injector wires (double checked they were plugged in).

 

...

 

I did the second test on this image on all the coils.

Two read ~13 kohm

One reads ~.5 Mohm.

I'm just wondering how if they are so shot, the truck was working before. But doesn't work now. I guess fiddling around with the wires was enough to make them loose whatever contact they had before? I did have rough idling issues before (not too pronounced).

 

Not sure if it's even possible to do but did 2 of the coil connectors possibly get swapped?

 

That is possible. I had the wires unwrapped so I could put fresh electrical tape on them.

 

What year is your truck, I can look up the wire colors for each coil?

 

2000. Would this be in the service manual?

 

Should be.

 

Coil 1 and Coil 2 wiring was reversed. xD

ty very much. will put things back together and try firing it up again after a quick coffee. this has been a wild ride. hope everything works after.

 

That will do it lol.