0-20 oil too thin?

Moral of this story is,




And it all starts with

$54 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil, follow those in the know no matter how thin it may seem

 

Remember that is the temperature where engines start, not where they run. With that said the discussed viscosity is fine for either application. The viscosity index of this oil is basically flat, meaning the engine in Arizona and the engine in Alberta will see close to the same viscosity when starting.

 

The oil will be the same thickness at -30 and 130 degrees ......... ?

 

the oil temp in the sump is controlled by the cooling system capacity. Localized temperatures however such as bearings are not in that realm of control. The fastest way to increase oil temperature is to increase rpm. This increases the overall friction/ time equation and the bearing shearing the oil is frocti9n.. this heats the oil more than anything else.

Higher Atmospheric temperature can cause the sump temperature to go higher bacuase the sump as a bulk is air cooled. Bit when circulated it gets exposed to higher or lower water jacket temperatures and helps control it somewhat. Oil to water coolers help some more.
The oil viscosity recommendations based on temperature are just as true today, but the concept of viscosity needs to be updated since the wo,30,40,50,60 weights are way to broad an imprecise.
A poster named Shannow from Australia on BITOG coined this terminology and it is a clearer way to discuss viscosity. Since cst@100c (what makes a 20,or 30 grade definition)is not really relevant to the high stress portion of an engine. When you shop for oil you simply take the winter rating and then look at the HTHS.

It should be “x” w HTHS
So 0w2.7 for 0w20
Or 5w3.5 for acea a3 5w30
I am about to add some 0w3.6 to my Tacoma for example and it is a quality a3/b4

 

No it will be thinner at the Arizona temperature. The same oil gets thicker the colder it gets, regardless of viscosity index this is the physics of it.

However, as long as it is still pumpable it is functional.

 

An oil that flows (pumpable) at -30. Is this the best oil to cushion a bearing at 130 degrees, towing at max payload and max tow rating under the Arizona sun?

 

It is more complex than that. High quality base oils can be used to produce a higher viscosity index product. But anything with a viscosity index greater than 170 becomes suspect due to the physical properties of base oils. to get a higher HTHS and a very low temp pump ability requires VII’s . So as you go up in n HTHS to get a stronger oil film and not one composed with VIIs you will need to increase the low temperature pumpabilty..or (decrease the spread) oils with less spread are indeed more oil and additives that count.
As counterintuitive as it sounds finding high quality oils with lower viscosity index would better suit your needs. Their is no magic. So a synthetic 0w20 with a goof 150 is better than one with a V.I. of 180 you cannot break 170 without a lot of viscosity index improvers. The physical properties don’t allow it.

 

Can i have this pic?

 

No, but the curve is much flatter than most other oils. You are thinking oils like molasses. Think of modern synthetics as like kerosene, much thinner and much more stable over temperatures. This oil actually has an acceptable pour point at -47C which is -53F. Years ago temps like this required thermocouples, blankets and heat tape, not to mention block heaters.

 

True.

 

Our houses are not the great asset everyone thinks. If an owner mortgages, they’ll pay for the house about 3 times in 30 years, once the original price, once for mortgage interest and once for taxes/maintenance.

Keeping a vehicle for 30 years I’m sure is similar (maybe 2X) with all the fees and maintenance.

 

I read the owners manual, I follow the owners manual. I do change change the oil and filter at 5000.00 miles, I know, I know.

 

That’s very misleading because most people don’t stay in their house for 30 years. They move several times.

Obviously there are many factors involved such as location, development, local economy, home improvements, etc. however many houses will appreciate faster than their payments

I have made money in every house I have sold. The profit being the the equity minus the payments made and upgrade/ maintenance costs.

Comparatively if you bought a house for say 150k in 30 years it will likely be worth 300k-500k. Either way to get your money back.

Real world example: my parents bought their first house back in the 80s and sold it in 97 for $134k, that same house sold in 2016 for $370k and is now estimated in 2018 for over $400k

 

Uh...yeah.

And in addition to a house historically appreciating in value, you have to factor in the cost of rent you would have had to pay if you didn't own, since shelter is an actual need, along with food and clothing.

Anyone care to debate the cost of food/ eating? The food I ate yesterday is practically worthless now in it's existing form.

Keeping a vehicle for longer than average is actually saving money in the long run, even with the cost of maintenance factored in- imo. This statement is based on keeping up with scheduled maintenance.....and using recommend fluids...including 0 W20 oil....

 

It was an example not taking into appreciation meaning worse case.

Yeah mortgage companies love the 7 year turnover where “owners” pay the most interest.

 

Check Craigslist.

 

But is it to the detriment of longevity?

 

One man's shit is another man's brown gold.....

Right?

 

Especially if you are dumb enough to do the work yourself and not value your own time..... like this idiot here:

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I was thinking about what I'd do when the 3.5L does finally wear out..... I might be dumb enough to put some kind of LSx engine in it. That would be really dumb.... but fun.

 

Wow.