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00 Taco Mods

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ibengineer, Jun 14, 2010.

  1. Jun 14, 2010 at 7:06 AM
    #1
    ibengineer

    ibengineer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma TRD 4x4
    Dirt Logic 2.5" Coilovers, Camburg UCA's, Icon 3 Leaf add-a-pack, billy 5100's in the rear, Custom front Plate bumper, XRC 8500 lb winch, lots of little mods
    I posted this in my intro page by mistake, but here it is:


    2000 toyota tacoma trd v6 3.4L 4x4 extra cab.

    I am looking to lift and add new tires, I have done a LOT of research and I have stalked a few forums for a while now reading about this. I wanted to get a direct response to my specific situation, since I know most of you are seasoned vets when it comes to toyo mods.

    I drive prolly 90% on road (almost all highway), and use my truck for work as well as play. I like to take it up to the sierras and 4x4 in to some lakes, and occasionally my job (engineer) requires me to drive to very remote (4x4 in), high altitude dams in the sierras.

    I have been quoted 2k out the door for a revtech 3" sl with 4 new 33" Big-O mud tires on my stock rims, all installed/aligned, etc.After reading, I think they may be playing me, since I think those tires will actually rub.

    My questions for all of you are:

    1.) Does a lift kit and bigger tires really make that much of a difference in off-road capability vs. stock 4x4 trd?

    2.) Does a 33 vs. 32 in tire really matter that much?

    3.) Is a revtech 3" spacer lift really that much worse in terms of ride quality/reliability/capabilty than an OME caliber coilover + AAL?

    4.) Is it hard to trim to fit 33" on that revtech lift?

    5.) What do you guys think about saving money and buying retread tires? like these: http://www.treadwright.com/shopnow/p...-dog-mt-e.aspx

    SORRY FOR THE HUGE post, hope you guys can share some of your knowledge!
     
  2. Jun 14, 2010 at 8:45 AM
    #2
    viperfella

    viperfella Well-Known Member

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    15'' mickey tompson bullet hole rims 31.10.50 mickey tompson baja tires
    to answer some of your questions you dont need mud tires you need all terrains like a bfg a/t or something similar. If im not mistaken which i could be but im pretty sure on a stock trd susp your able to fit 32'' tires on stock tires so with your lift you will be able to clear those 33's no prob. a lift kit and bigger tires give u more clearance and a little more traction so always consider the terrain you wheel on when u buy tires and it makes no nevermind if u get a lift and tires if you not able to drive offroad because your going to get stuck anyways.
     
  3. Jun 14, 2010 at 8:51 AM
    #3
    STLharry

    STLharry Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    '95-'97 camouflaged, ARB bull bar, RAT Products skid plate kit, sliders, Green Mountain Customs rear tube bumper and overland bed rack, King coilovers with Icon neoprene covers, defenestrated sway bar, OME Rear Suspension: CS046R leafs + AAL/5125 shocks/NWOR greasable hardware/U-bolt flip kit; S13WL Tundra calipers/pads/rotors, IPF H4 lenses and bulbs, IPF 968 DCG 100W lights, clapped out CB radio, Aussie-spec FJ60 inclinometer, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Superwinch S9000 with 12V Guy clock switch, 4' Hi-Lift, deckplate mod/grey wire mod/dif breather extensions, Duratrac tires, Sockmonkey bedside decals, boat cupholder, Dakine bike pad
    I am not sure what the parts for that lift cost, but 2k seems about right for a lift (if shop-installed), new tires, and labor.

    My advice? go with 32" BFG AT tires on your stick rims with OME suspension. You get a little bit of lift and don't sacrifice ride quality at all, and you also get the benefit of increased load capacity, not to mention you rid yourself of those weak stock leafs.

    I have had OME for a year and a half on two different trucks, and it is very nice.
     
  4. Jun 14, 2010 at 6:45 PM
    #4
    ibengineer

    ibengineer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma TRD 4x4
    Dirt Logic 2.5" Coilovers, Camburg UCA's, Icon 3 Leaf add-a-pack, billy 5100's in the rear, Custom front Plate bumper, XRC 8500 lb winch, lots of little mods
    Thanks for the replies. If I do try to fit 33's, do you think it would be smarter/better to add a 1" BL or just trim to avoid any rub issues?

    Oh and it would be really helpful if anyone has had any exp with retread tires? The deals are crazy good.
     
  5. Jun 14, 2010 at 7:32 PM
    #5
    toycar18

    toycar18 Well-Known Member

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    98 Reg Cab 2.7L
    OME Suspension, BFG 33x10.50 AT, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, Rear ARB Air Locker, LCE Header, Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler, K&N Intake
    Tire size makes all the difference off road. I am seen trucks with zero flex and huge tires out wheel trucks with tons of flex and smaller tires all day long.

    33s have a very big advantage or 31s.

    33s will get you just about anywhere in Colorado except for the crazy trails like Independence 4x4 Trail...google it

    31s won't

    32s will probably not rub. 33s will very slightly but can be fixed with pinchweld mod. You also may need wheel spacers so the 33s don't touch the upper control arm unless you go with 33x10.50 which is narrow. The 32s are usually a 32x11.50 which is wide and may also need wheel spacers so the tire doesn't touch the upper control arm. The wheel spacers are assuming you have a stock wheels - All you would need is about 1/4" wheel spacer. The wheel spacer will also decrease rubbing the frame or wheel well.

    If you have a 16" rims you could go with a 285/75/16 is like a 32.5" tire. Not quite 33s.

    I had the same debate with 32s and 33s and I'm going with 33s. It will be much better off road and many people who I spoke with wish they went with 33s instead of 32s. Also 33s will match up best with the 4.56 gears I'm installing.

    The OME suspension is tons better. Basically with the revtec lift you are using the same crappy stock suspension. You won't have a better ride and it will flex the same. The on-road and off-road ride quality with OME is TONS better.

    Anyone who can use a hammer and a screwdriver can do the pinchweld mod. That is what you will have to do to fit 33s.

    I would never buy re-tread tires. Have you ever seen all the tires on the interstate that come off of Semis? That is because they use re-treads.

    Mud Tires are awesome off-road but just remember they suck on road in snow. I would love to have a Mud Terrain but most my driving is on-road. I also need to have good snow traction so a All Terrain is much better.

    The other thing to consider is gears. Depending on what gears you have you may need to re-gear the truck. My truck has 3.58s and needed to be re-geared to handle 33s. If you have 4.11s you probably would be fine but you may want to ask so guys there thoughts. To find out what gears you have visit http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

    My recommendation would be to save and get the complete OME suspension with 881 coils. If you have a heavy aftermarket bumper and/or winch go with the 882s. BTW, OME stands for Old Man Emu which is made by ARB - one of the best manufacturers of 4x4 accessories in the world.

    Fix it right the first time so you don't have to mess with it later. The stock suspension is junk. Replace the rear leafs springs - don't do an AAL

    You may have to do a diff drop which is no big deal.

    Don't add a Body Lift - they are junk and aren't the safest. The pinchweld will take care of rubbing. If you are worried about rubbing add the top plate spacer to lift for a full 3"s up front.

    http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.ph...ategory_id=63&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72

    Wheelers Off Road is also good http://wheelersoffroad.com/

    The cheapest is www.trdparts4u.com

    You also may need a extended brake lines, Exhaust bracket, and BPV bracket. Some kits include those things.
     
  6. Jun 14, 2010 at 7:36 PM
    #6
    STLharry

    STLharry Lube: It's the key to penetration.

    Joined:
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    '95-'97 camouflaged, ARB bull bar, RAT Products skid plate kit, sliders, Green Mountain Customs rear tube bumper and overland bed rack, King coilovers with Icon neoprene covers, defenestrated sway bar, OME Rear Suspension: CS046R leafs + AAL/5125 shocks/NWOR greasable hardware/U-bolt flip kit; S13WL Tundra calipers/pads/rotors, IPF H4 lenses and bulbs, IPF 968 DCG 100W lights, clapped out CB radio, Aussie-spec FJ60 inclinometer, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Superwinch S9000 with 12V Guy clock switch, 4' Hi-Lift, deckplate mod/grey wire mod/dif breather extensions, Duratrac tires, Sockmonkey bedside decals, boat cupholder, Dakine bike pad
    ^^Well said. I bought all of my ARB parts from 4by4connection.com though...great store. Very helpful.
     
  7. Jun 14, 2010 at 10:25 PM
    #7
    ibengineer

    ibengineer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    00 Tacoma TRD 4x4
    Dirt Logic 2.5" Coilovers, Camburg UCA's, Icon 3 Leaf add-a-pack, billy 5100's in the rear, Custom front Plate bumper, XRC 8500 lb winch, lots of little mods
    Wow thanks

    Hey let me ask you this: Can I buy just the ome coilovers and rather than an AAL or leaf pack, use some largers shocks in the rear to get lift? I rarely carry anything heavy (or else I would have bought a diff truck).

    Will this setup: OME coilovers + some rear lift (either AAL, leaf pack, or shocks, etc) + 33" ATs really allow me to get places that I can't get now?

    And finally: Are UCA's simply to preserve alignment or do they allow you to really crank up, space out these factory coilovers without screwing up your truck?

    thanks in advance
     
  8. Jun 15, 2010 at 2:20 PM
    #8
    toycar18

    toycar18 Well-Known Member

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    OME Suspension, BFG 33x10.50 AT, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, Rear ARB Air Locker, LCE Header, Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler, K&N Intake
    Longer Shocks will not give you lift in the rear. You will need to do an AAL, new leaf springs, shackle lift, or blocks. You probably will need to replace the rear shocks as well because the stock ones will be too short and it may not flex as much. I would recommend new springs or the AAL.

    I would recommend 881 OME coils matched with OME Shocks for the front. The shocks are specifically designed for that coil and will ride better than putting a different brand shocks on

    Yes, 33s with a 2.5" or 3" lift will be much more capable off-road.

    Uni-ball upper control arms will help with flex. Some of them have extra caster built in to help with alignment. It is not necessary to replace the UCAs but it may not have enough caster so the truck may wander at highway speeds.

    Light Racing UCAs are made for alignment. They have the ability to adjust caster to provide very accurate alignment. The utilize a maintenance free ball joint. LR UCAs will flex slightly better than stock but not as good as uniball UCAs.

    I am lifting my truck this week and went with the LR UCAs so it aligns and drives perfect. The UCAs are optional. See how your truck drives and aligns and if you need them you can always add them later. I just want my truck to be perfect the first time.

    I'd go with the OME Lift

    -881 coils
    -OME Shocks (technically they are struts in the front)
    -Top Plate Spacer to get a full 3" in front (you may not need with a 4cyl)
    -Front Diff Drop

    Rear:
    -OME springs or add-a-leaf
    -OME Shocks
    -Extended Brake Line
    -BPV Relocate Kit
    -OME Exhaust Hanger
    -New U Bolts - do not reuse the factory ones - they can stretch and can affect safety
    -OME greasable shackles if you go with ome springs if aal reuse stock shackles
    -Shackle bushing kit for OME shackles or factory shackles

    Upper Control Arms are optional check out the following for more info:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/97809-light-racing-ucas-first-gen.html

    If you want better rear leaf springs which will provide more flex (better off-road) and will carry more load then go with the OME springs - my recomendation

    If not go with the AAL

    Most Tacoma leaf springs sag/ go flat after 50-75K miles
     
  9. Jun 15, 2010 at 6:54 PM
    #9
    ibengineer

    ibengineer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    00 Tacoma TRD 4x4
    Dirt Logic 2.5" Coilovers, Camburg UCA's, Icon 3 Leaf add-a-pack, billy 5100's in the rear, Custom front Plate bumper, XRC 8500 lb winch, lots of little mods
    cool man thx ill check it out,

    So what is the huge difference between these types of lifts (coilover) and the ones I see driving around ...aka the 6-12" lifted giant trucks lol Are they ruining there suspension, or do they all have pro-comp style 2k+ lifts in there?
     
  10. Jun 16, 2010 at 8:40 AM
    #10
    lp00427

    lp00427 Active Member

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  11. Jun 16, 2010 at 9:25 AM
    #11
    scocar

    scocar Scouting the perimeter for weakness

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    Back to square one after the 2001. So...
    Everything toycar and harry said. As a fellow noob, I have been going through a similar learning curve to get rid of the crappy stock suspension front and back, and ended up with OME 881 coils up front, Wheeler's 1.5-in. 5-leaf replacement leafpack (1 more leaf than stock), and Billie 5100 shocks all around based on many recommendation from many experienced people. A lot of people also swear by OME Dakar leafs, but they are 2.25 lift, I think. It is all still on the garage floor, waiting for this weekend or next for install, so I can't report on ride or performance yet, but everyone else who has installed this setup seems to be very happy with the results.

    I wanted minimal lift and did not want to increase tire size, because it just gets crazy expensive and complicated for my needs, which are very much like yours: daily driver, but I want to maintain decent ride and mileage on paved roads 90 percent of the time, and want the 4WD for occasional Sierra exploration and snow. If you lift to 3 inches, you introduce a host of new technical issues, like CV angle, diff drops, carrier bearing drops, alignment issues, switching to coilovers and UCAs ($$$), blah blah blah.

    Definitely go with some sort of AT tire, and consider very hard that you will be driving this thing on pavement almost all the time. Mud tires, from what I hear, are useless on the highway and in snow. I guess that is why they call them mud tires. You could spend a lot of money on a lot of stuff that you actually use minimally, and the whole time you will be paying through the nose for fuel...

    Happy hunting!
     
  12. Jun 16, 2010 at 9:27 AM
    #12
    xSpyderguyx

    xSpyderguyx Well-Known Member

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    s40 Flowmaster 33" Toyo M/T tires 16" P.A wheels 3" revteck Suspension lift
    With the 3" revteck lift, you cant clear 33's, i have 32's because i wasnt going to start hacking away at my truck.

    It doesnt ride great, but i have no problems with it, and its worth the money IMO.
     
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