.002" gauge test fails barely between cylinders

How the heck are built 1GR's driving around if the decks cannot be surfaced? How do I drive mine? How have the cylinders been over bored since the beginning of the 1GR? Up to .030" over stock, on the nicasil lined cylinders, prior to my help bringing the ductile iron Darton M.I.D. Sleeves to market? Over boring performed by LC Engineering. How is Gadget's URD XRunner with a sleeved stroked engine driving around, if the decks cannot be machined?

Food for thought.

 

Nicasil lined cylinders. They can be. I don't recommend much though without sleeves. Minus having LCE do it. Even then I don't recommend more than a few thousandths. Only for proper allowable expansion of forged pistons. .004-.006" max

 

No. Not made of stainless steel.

The cylinders have splined cast-iron cylinder liners that are cast into the aluminum block. That is why you should not attempt to bore the cylinders. The open deck is also problematic for machining.

Note: I am not saying that it cannot be done... But you better make sure you know what you are doing before hand or you have a very good machine shop. Your run of the mill shop is just going to fuck it up. Then you will be buying a new/used block/engine anyway.

 

or in my case where the warpage is so marginally out of spec, i will just take a calculated risk at ignoring it and see what happens. because i am sure that a company of Toyota's reputation will slash a realistically tolerant threshold down to a half or less just as a CYA.

 

I agree with you. The problem with the 1GR-FE is the open deck at the top, a little pinging or knock can cause the cylinder to move and break the seal between the head and the block. At a minimum I would use a copper coat on the surfaces to help with the sealing.

 

I already reinstalled the head in question. I don't think it would be a good idea to take it off and apply the coating once the pressure of torque has once been applied onto the gasket. plus, I would have to sort of approximate where to apply it on the gasket (where the unevenness is) and run the risk of thickening an even portion. the whole concept seems fishy at best...

 

That is not how you use a copper coat sealant on cylinder heads... You would apply it to the entire sealing surface ( both sides of the gasket) and assemble normally. It doesn't act as a filler it is a bonding seal between the mating surfaces and the gasket. Anyway too late to worry about it now isn't it.

Did you get the valve seals sorted between the intake and exhaust? I hope so as the manual indicates it could be an issue if they are installed in the incorrect locations...

 

yes sir. definitely was convinced that was needed, went through and redid them, also retested them for leaks by filling the runner with water while setting the heads sideways, all good.

next big thing is to put the other head on and do the lash measurements between the valve stems and the cams to see which lifters go where.

thanks

 

Hey friend. Do you still have this truck? Is the engine still good after the heads went back on?

 

lol I miss foampile too.

 

Classic case of five thousandths equals five thousand.