01 4 banger wont start!!!

I'm stumped...I tried to start my 2001 Tacoma 2.7L 4x4, Xmas morning. No luck, since then I have got a code reader and these are what came up.P0125, P1135, and P1130. All of these codes were regarding sensors. I then pulled the #1 plug turned over engine to assure it was "blowin and suckin". If I'm not mistaken this should confirm the timing chain isn't broken? Also while the plug was out I checked for fire on #1 it was sparking.....Next we sprayed a little starting fluid in the throttle body it seemed to want to start but just never would. Finally the engine is making a strange noise as it is turning over..Kinda like its straining. Any info or advice would be appreciated...I'm stuck in a gas guzzler F150 so I need to get my baby back.

 

similar thing happen to a friend's truck. I told him I didn't think it was the battery since all his lights still work. I stood corrected when it starts back up after installing a new battery. So maybe you might want to try it, just my opinion.

 

I'm game for n-e thing right now I'll try it

 

Wasn't the battery...checking the fuses now

 

When you turn the key to "on", can you hear the fuel pump running.

 

Especially the EFI fuse. Sounds like it's fuel starved. The fact that it tries to start with the starting fluid is a pretty good clue. Sounds like it's getting fire but no fuel. That could explain the various sensor codes. Are you sure the fuel pump's working?

 

Thanks for all the info it is very helpful I'm trying to save myself a big repair bill. I'm not to familiar with EFI engines, carbs are more my thing. I cant hear the fuel pump but, I have never heard it b4. Tried listening with the fuel cap off. No fuse was blown under the hood or under the dash...what is the best way to check the relay under the hood? I took a volt meter and touched it between the two silver ends to see if current was traveling through them and it was. I got the plugs out right now letting the cylinders dry out cause there is quite a bit of fuel in the 2nd from the rear cylinder....more to follow when I put the new plugs in.....

 

UPDATE...Fuel pump is working I forgot to pull the EFI relay when we were checking the coil packs....note to self don't stand over cylinders when engine is turning over I got a face full of fuel.....gonna let it air out over night and try again tomm

 

I would check the basics first. Are you getting spark on all 4 spark plugs? Are you getting fuel in all 4 cylinders? How many miles are on the truck?

 

Sounds like timing to me. Just because your timing chain isn't broken (they don't usually break) doesn't mean it hasn't jumped time. All that raw fuel in the cylinders is a pretty good clue. And, the way it sounds like it's straining when you turn it over is another symptom of jumped timing. It'll turn over a couple of times and then bog down like a motor with a weak battery. I'll bet it was running fine when you parked it and then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. Usually when a motor jumps time it does it when you shut it off.

 

Thanks for all the comebacks...I also think it might have jumped time Because I have fire and I have fuel but no bang bang. I got a local grease monkey taking a look at it tomm running an engine diagnostic test (little better than a code reader from Auto Zone). He seems to think it is something minor I'll let you all know what the final result is by Wed. hopefully

 

If you have spark and fuel then its definatly timing. I just went through the same thing with my 96 after changing the head gasket. I would rotate the crank to the top dead center on the compression stroke, pull the valve cover and make sure the timing marks are correct on your cams. Once I had all that right she fired right up.

 

Oh...and if you have fuel in your clyinders, pull the plugs and let the raw fuel evaporate before you try to start it again.

 

wow

 

Well......It is a timing chain. The bad news is the four words to follow crushed my hopes they were......INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE ALSO. So i don't know what ill do. The monkey gave me quote on the chain parts labor etc. It was $1130...this does not cover any valve damage that was done. Does this sound about right?

 

That sounds like a lot of money to me. I didn't know the 2.7 was an interference engine. Is it?

 

wow at that cost couldn't just buy a ne motor

 

Everything I have read says there shouldn't be a problem with the 3RZ-FE if the chain does break...I guess he was telling me this just so if there was by chance a problem it wouldn't be one of those "oh by the way" things...???

I'm looking at going with a crate motor or a used engine with low miles. I hate to put 2K in an engine with 140K+mi...N E body know a good site on the interweb?? shipping is not a prob I work with a trucking comp...